I went to the gas station today and only had 20 bucks on me and was litterally out of gas so I put in 20 bucks worth 93 oct.The whole time I was pumping I was thinking that most of the 5 gallons I got was mostly 87 oct since no one around here runs 93 and decided to log the car after.

Its about 40d out and raining so I was doing wot blasts in 3rd from 1900-2600and the car flagged cyl 8 miss fire and logged 1 count on that cylinder and the ecu pulled 0.09 degres timing.

Call me super parinoid but Im taking that plug out first thing in the morning and checking that cylinder.Im hopeing the plug just needs to be torqued up and came loose.

It could be just a fluke from the ****ty gas but being that piston has me worried.

crossing my figers that the plug is clean in the morning

 

Hoping the best for you Angelo..

 

on a side note I reset the ecu today and the car has been running way faster than before,I think it was missfiring from before and had the timing pulled and when I reset it and put in some ****ty gas the car was running full timing advance.

this is the first time in the rain in 3rd gear at 2000 rpms kicking the car sideways spinning the tires with ease.

Iv had these problems from going to the colder plugs,im taking these suckers out asap and wish I kept my old plugs

 

What happens if cylinder 8 is done? Would you need a whole new engine?

Hopefully everything is ok.

 

Oh ****... keep us posted

 

number 8 is next to the fuse box near the firewall right?

 

I thought it was close to the cabin filter side, in the back...

 

Which plugs are you running?

 

the one step colder ngks,when I first put them on they ended up getting loose and I put down 502whp on the dyno and after I tightened them up a few days later layed down 530 so Im thinking these are not staying torqued or not tightened enough from install.

either way Im going to buy MB stock plugs(the ones that say mercedes on them)from the dealer tom.

you can run the iradium,iradium ix,iradium platinum and iradium laser witch is the best plug ngk makes and is the one mercedes uses for our cars stock.

the part number for the laser is NGK ILFR6A Laser Iridium (3588) and thats the stock e55 plug.

13 each online and 17 at the dealer

 

drivers side rear

 

Have you thought about Denso's IKH22's?

 

Not really since most people were pushing the ngks on here.I ran denso's on my m3 with no problems.

I found some interesting info while searching threw the ngk specs.Some plugs say 1k resistor and some say 5k

I dont know what the real oem plug is(the one that says mercedes on it)and dont know if that plays any part.

Would the 5k plug have a harder hitting spark since its less load being blocked?

 

Cold dry Air. Lots of oxygen molecules Not enough fuel to match them.. This type of weather is great for hp , but if you have notice this is the time of year most Hi performance motors fail . I'm thinking you had your ECU tune done in hot humid weather .
Had an interesting thread over on the W209 forums. About Spark Plugs . I've alwqays gone with Champion. OK stop CRINGING LOL. They run about a 1/2 heat rang colder than the NGKs below is a Paste & Copy

Resistor Plugs

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Marcus. Is spot on . Here is some info you may not Know. The resistor in the S/P is around 5000 ohms. the Suppressor type S/P is 500 ohms. The wire length is so short on MB M-113/ 112 motors , there resistance is not that effective . I believe that the switch from Suppressor to Resistor tells the story. Impedence is not an issue at the voltage level. Maybe important around low voltage sound equipment.

In the old days Some V-8s had 3' to 4 ' length of spark plug wire from the Distributors to the Spark plug. Lots of EMI & RFI. Early Transistor ignitions & fuel injection system needed all the suppression they could get.

The main issue with oem S/P wires is the harsh ? Hostile environment they are subject too. The relief Entry to the S/P threads in the cyl head , traps moisture & water. Short runs around town does not build enough heat to boil the water into a vapor. Over time hot & cold cycles crushes the S/P sealing washer , it partially loses it sealing ability .Letting water wick into the Threads. I apply some Wurth CU-1100 Anti-Corrosion paste on the last 3 treads near the sealing washer. This stuff is good to 2000 * F.
Also the steel cover on the OEM wires , at the S/P connector , Lays in the water at the S/P Relief entry on the Cyl head and corrodes badly . And develops a current path for the High voltage , to bypass the S/P. Can you find the misfire?? Now.
Unfortunately it is run too long in the shorting out state & Damages the Ign Coil pack. Moral of the story Here , dont wait to 50,000 or even 100.000 mile. Not all enviromental conditions are the same.
We can talk about Iridium coatings & Platinum pads If Needed
Cheers _PTEngineering

 

Makes sence since my car dow low is on the lean side.Do you think running colder plugs in the winter is not a good idea?

I just took them out and they look good so thank god that there was no oil on them.Maybe the ohm resistence of the colder plugs is not the same and it was just a fluke that the ecu thought was a miss fire? the knock sensor didnt show any knock just a miss fire and pulled timing...A whole 0.09 deg witch I thought was weird for it to pull so little.not even a 10th of a deg.

here is a pic

 

I am not even close to PTE's engineering knowledge. Just know that you are not the only one over the years to have trouble running colder plugs. Heard of several over the years(though I am sure that there are MANY running them just fine) . Just not a big fan of them on our cars based on those reports.

 

I am running one step colder with no issues but every car is different as you guys know, so what is good for one is not necessarily good for another.

 

I just ordered the 13 dollar LFR6AIX laser plugs the car comes with from the factory,not the LFR6AIX-11 but the more expensive laser ones.

I too had no issues and I might be over reacting since I think I got some bad gas in the car but I just want the original plugs in the beast now for piece of mind.

Im even going back to stock boost untill I can buy the s/c pulley that will get me to a 170mm crank pulley boost level with the stock crank on there.

 

I'm going out on a limb here but the only diff between LFR6AIX & LFR6AIX-11 is the pre-gap of 1.1mm

Believe you're trying to say don't get the "I"LFR6"A", get the LFR6A"IX"?

 

nope the laser are different plugs.

factory are the laser plugs

 

I'm sure it's likely not your issue, but my experience has been that it is very easy to not completely seat the spark plug wire on the plug while thinking it is fully seated. It can be a snug fit to fully seat some of them. They seem like they're all the way on, but they may not be. This will cause misfires.

I recently had my valve covers resealed under my extended CPO warranty. I got the car back and it seemed like it was running rough, even though it had been purring like a kitty after I changed the plugs at the time I installed my LT headers. So I started checking the wires, and sure enough, I found the tech at the dealer hadn't fully seated 3 of the 16 spark plug wires he had disconnected to do the VCs. .

Once I fully seated the connectors, the motor is purring again.

 

Based on this:
I'm telling you you've got the model numbers wrong (probably by accident, typo, etc.). NGK's plug nomenclature means that the "11" is gap. Google this and you'll see.

I understand you're saying the OE quality NGK "laser" Irids are better than the "IX" Irids, not disagreeing with you (or agreeing with you). But the part number you keep typing as "OE" is incorrect.

The "OE" 3588 Laser Irids is ILFR6A

The 6619 IX Irids is LFR6AIX-11

komp55 went through this earlier in in September, see this pix:

 

yea I was copying and pasting its an I not an L the plugs I got are the 3588

 

I went through all of this on that spark plug post that was linked to earlier. The 6619's are an upgrade over the 3588's according to the NGK website. I had sets of both OE Mercedes marked plugs and the 6619s in hand before doing my plugs. The Iridium IX plugs appeared to have a more precisely shaped electrode than the OE plugs, so they're the ones I installed. You can't go wrong with either IMO.

 

I can not see the under side of the J - Strap. Is the Pad still in place. You may not know this But, > They are Glued on !! Sometimes a violent combustion event will blow the J-Strap pad off. Then you get a Misfire code. On many of the Champion plugs , used in DI engines we had to have Champion develop a micro welded on pad. to the J-Strap.
Cheers _PTE_

 

I can not see the under side of the J - Strap. Is the Pad still in place. You may not know this But, > They are Glued on !! Sometimes a violent combustion event will blow the J-Strap pad off. Then you get a Misfire code. On DI motors we had Champion develop a Micro welded on Pad. Doubled the life under extreme combustion Events.
Cheers _PTE_