Ok, here is the harmonic balancing hub , sawed in half. You can see the interlocking injected rubber core. This is a CNC, solid steel ,two part hub VERSES the factory hub being cast two part with a very soft rubber in it. This hub uses the same factory method style of dampening but with improved rubber injection, CNC steel parts and better balanced final part. The durameter of the rubber was specially formulated to last longer, handle more HP and larger diameter boost pulleys.
So here it is ,,, with the skirt pulled all the way up..

So here it is ,,, with the skirt pulled all the way up..


I am taking pictures and posting info on a safe pulley DIY soon. I hear about a lot of bad installs and I will include some close up shots and tricks to do yourself or most of all WARN your tech about.
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170mm is available and any custom size you can dream up, so I have been told. I know a guy that plans to run the 170mm and then put the Smaller/lighter SC pulley on with it. Now that will be a wicked combo!Originally Posted by SvtAmg
That pulley is badass, I just wished it started at 172mm.
I plan to run the RTR pulley in a 185mm with the UPD SC boost pulley combo on my motor that I am buildng now.
exotic
what was the size of the original ASP pulley?i'm thinking of getting the one on ebay if it's the same size 'cos that's what i have on my car now.(ASP)
thank you
what was the size of the original ASP pulley?i'm thinking of getting the one on ebay if it's the same size 'cos that's what i have on my car now.(ASP)
thank you
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what was the size of the original ASP pulley?i'm thinking of getting the one on ebay if it's the same size 'cos that's what i have on my car now.(ASP)
thank you
The early ASP and VRP were 178 -179mm, then they went 180-185. The Redtooths came in with a lot of different sizes and you can change the ring at will. I started at 178mm and as my ***** grew,, went 180-185 and then right to 200mm..Originally Posted by cls55
exoticwhat was the size of the original ASP pulley?i'm thinking of getting the one on ebay if it's the same size 'cos that's what i have on my car now.(ASP)
thank you
Most peopple tht keep their 55 for a few years or more,, will avergage several crank pulley changes. Plan up front and you can save money by just changing rings.Senior Member
Sorry for the ignorance here, but I would like to know the benifit of the adjustable crank pulley system? I get the changing out pulley, but the hub is what I would like to know.
I am looking at going bigger. I just dyno'd my S55 and put down 503rwhp, but would like a little more. LTH and a new tune are about as much as I want to go. I have shorties now and a 180 ASP kit, 550cc injuectors, cooling pump and Kleemann box tune.
I am looking at going bigger. I just dyno'd my S55 and put down 503rwhp, but would like a little more. LTH and a new tune are about as much as I want to go. I have shorties now and a 180 ASP kit, 550cc injuectors, cooling pump and Kleemann box tune.
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Ah, after two catastrophic failures with your Redtooth Racing 195mm kits, you are deciding to step down to a 185mm on your new motor. What made you want to step down

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I am looking at going bigger. I just dyno'd my S55 and put down 503rwhp, but would like a little more. LTH and a new tune are about as much as I want to go. I have shorties now and a 180 ASP kit, 550cc injuectors, cooling pump and Kleemann box tune.
You are well set up to run more boost or just add a 84mm light supercharger pulley to your 180mm. That would be about like running a 190mm on the crank.Originally Posted by Triman2008
Sorry for the ignorance here, but I would like to know the benifit of the adjustable crank pulley system? I get the changing out pulley, but the hub is what I would like to know. I am looking at going bigger. I just dyno'd my S55 and put down 503rwhp, but would like a little more. LTH and a new tune are about as much as I want to go. I have shorties now and a 180 ASP kit, 550cc injuectors, cooling pump and Kleemann box tune.
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has anyone dyno'ed with a crank and s/c pulley together yet? Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
You are well set up to run more boost or just add a 84mm light supercharger pulley to your 180mm. That would be about like running a 190mm on the crank.

would be great to see someone with a 180 + S/C up against a 190mm to see how the numbers roll!
Senior Member
Exotic, what is the cost of a 84mm lightweight S/C pulley? PM me.
Super Member
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I have the opposite opinion about the inner ring. You need a way to center up the ring independent of the bolts to keep it true and prevent the aluminum ring from walking around under the bolts. I don't know how much HP the s/c consumes but I would guess 60+ to turn that sucker at max rpm. That is a lot of drag.
Finally someone who understands a little about load paths. Originally Posted by lowprofile
Looks good man. I have the opposite opinion about the inner ring. You need a way to center up the ring independent of the bolts to keep it true and prevent the aluminum ring from walking around under the bolts. I don't know how much HP the s/c consumes but I would guess 60+ to turn that sucker at max rpm. That is a lot of drag.
The pulley is going to see three loads - centrifugal force due to the pulley spinning, radial load from belt tension, and torque due to the force required to spin the supercharger.
The radial load will be carried by the shoulder that fits into the balancer. It's a simple calculation to see if your shoulder is of sufficient size.
Using bolts to carry the torque load is bad design, and if you insist on using bolts, you should at least us a bolt with a shoulder (smooth area between the head and threads) that is long enough that the threads don't bear against the hole in they pulley.
You should consider improving the design by using close tolerance dowel pins instead of or in addition to a couple of the bolts. That would let the dowell pins carry the torque load and the bolts would simply clamp the pulley to the balancer.
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You need to get tune with SC pulley and I suggest you to study more from who you are buying the product just in case something goes wrong.Originally Posted by Triman2008
Exotic, what is the cost of a 84mm lightweight S/C pulley? PM me.
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READ Brotha READ. These guys are not known for good business practices, and I would hate for you to get burned in more ways than oneOriginally Posted by Triman2008
Exotic, what is the cost of a 84mm lightweight S/C pulley? PM me.
These pulleys will eat your crank alive, just give it time.


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Here is a video of my RTR 180 at idle after ~2,000 miles, 3 dyno pulls, and at least 25 runs down the track. Straight as can be:
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.
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Yeah, it came with the kit as well as a new bolt and water pump pulley.
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A new belt is needed every time you change a pulley, some people don't care but always be safe
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uOY9...e_gdata_player
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.
Originally Posted by Denroll
Here is a video of my RTR 180 at idle after ~2,000 miles, 3 dyno pulls, and at least 25 runs down the track. Straight as can be:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uOY9...e_gdata_player
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.
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can't wait to see the results! A NEW BEAST!
have you installed your pulley yet ??Originally Posted by Toadster
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At this point I will stick with the pulley I have until an alternative has proven to be reliable, whether it is this pulley or another. Everyone loves their mods until something happens, then the games begin........Hopefully no others will experience the same as the results are obviously tragic. 

Member
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The pulley is going to see three loads - centrifugal force due to the pulley spinning, radial load from belt tension, and torque due to the force required to spin the supercharger.
The radial load will be carried by the shoulder that fits into the balancer. It's a simple calculation to see if your shoulder is of sufficient size.
Using bolts to carry the torque load is bad design, and if you insist on using bolts, you should at least us a bolt with a shoulder (smooth area between the head and threads) that is long enough that the threads don't bear against the hole in they pulley.
You should consider improving the design by using close tolerance dowel pins instead of or in addition to a couple of the bolts. That would let the dowell pins carry the torque load and the bolts would simply clamp the pulley to the balancer.
+1Originally Posted by velvet fog
Finally someone who understands a little about load paths. The pulley is going to see three loads - centrifugal force due to the pulley spinning, radial load from belt tension, and torque due to the force required to spin the supercharger.
The radial load will be carried by the shoulder that fits into the balancer. It's a simple calculation to see if your shoulder is of sufficient size.
Using bolts to carry the torque load is bad design, and if you insist on using bolts, you should at least us a bolt with a shoulder (smooth area between the head and threads) that is long enough that the threads don't bear against the hole in they pulley.
You should consider improving the design by using close tolerance dowel pins instead of or in addition to a couple of the bolts. That would let the dowell pins carry the torque load and the bolts would simply clamp the pulley to the balancer.
Member
Quote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uOY9...e_gdata_player
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.
What's the results from the track?Originally Posted by Denroll
Here is a video of my RTR 180 at idle after ~2,000 miles, 3 dyno pulls, and at least 25 runs down the track. Straight as can be:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uOY9...e_gdata_player
I am also running the new supercharger pulley. Will be at the track in 4 hours.





