skratch77

Is there any other maker that will work on our cars?Im about to try a duramax from autozone.

car was running soooo clutch last night,had the thing get wheel hop in second at like 50 mph and just about as Im going to run a car I get this weird mushy pedal feeling and the car feels like the belt is slipping(I thought the belt poped off) so after a scan I got the dreded max performance limit on the map sensor code again.

reset ecu and car is a beast again.

Bramage

I thought you were looking into a MAP Clamp. Not sure if that would help, but it seems like your MAP is reporting more air that the ECU will play happy with. My limited understanding of a MAP clamp is that you can restrict the maximum voltage it will output, thus eliminating the code. What I don't know if how you allow the ECU to process the extra air if the voltage from the MAP is capped.

AMGPilot

MAP clamp on a speed density car is not a good idea

skratch77

guys is it possible for an ait sensor to read wrong?

Im getting high temps and its really cold out here.

Like 20-30 above ambient in 29d weather.

I just checked the pump and its working.Anyone have a quick spilt cooling list I need?Im going to the store now and might as well get that out the way

Hammer Down

What was the code #?

ahmad0658

P106 or so, same situation, I got this most of the time when I drive on the high way, sometimes i get CEL and sometimes I don't get CEL but I scan the ECU and I find the code of MAP P106 or so.

I don't get it, I changed the sensor and situation continue, It only happen when I drive on steady speed on highway for about 20 - 30 mile with speed close to 80 MPH.

Bramage

(Edited parts list after re-reading DIY)

I think 20-30 above ambient when it is that cold is good. I run about 12-18 over ambient when it is 70-90, but on cold mornings (39-45) I run around 25-30 over ambient. I attribute that to the engine bay being much warmer than ambient, and the extra heat simply being leeched as it goes through the intake.


Splitting the system would help, or minimally not hurt.

When I did mine:

• 6' of 5/8" heater hose
• 3/4" to 5/8" splice
• 3/4" Splice
• 5/8" T
• Reservoir (BMW)

I used the write up one here using a BMW PS reservoir, and it worked as advertised.



Searched, and can not find the friggin DIY.




Oh, here it is:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/213966-diy-heat-exchanger-prep.html


In the DIY, there is a single connection from res to the circuit.

I took a 3/8" hose from the bleed point (metal hose next to SC) and ran that to the smaller connection on the resevoir. This allows for auto bleeding of the system.

...

Bramage

P106 and P0106 are different codes. P106 is not a MAP code...

ahmad0658

Thanx for the clarification, I meant the one related to the MAP, I remember that it had 106 that's why I just wrote it

Yeah, that code would show up sometimes regardless of temperature whether it is hot or cold, tonight it was cold while coming back from Dubai and got the same situation temperature was around 18 - 20 Deg C (64 - 68 Deg F)

pearlpower

P106 is usually an intake leak.

Starting my next phase of cooling upgrades next week when everything arrives. Then move on to fender tanks which I have already sketched out. If that does not do it, Killer Chiller it is. It was 52 out the other evening and my IAT went straight to 134!

blackbenzz

Yea if the engine can't see how much boost its really seeing it would cause big problems