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Food for thought: Pump temps comparison. '10 vs. CMB30 vs. WP136

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Old 01-16-2012, 04:43 PM
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Food for thought: Pump temps comparison. '10 vs. CMB30 vs. WP136

Figure I would post up. Nothing scientific, but before someone just runs out to buy a $200 pump + $35 fittings.....

These were in 75 degree ambient temps. Same data logger. 3rd gear runs. 2-3 runs average. PLM H/E and fan mod only. I'm going the Killer Chiller setup so the OEM Bosch pump is remaining and have since parted ways with the other pumps. I'm thinking the WP136 pump is best for a remote tank setup which needs the extra power, but flows too fast for a stock or H/E upgrade setup.

'10 Bosch pump- 156 degrees
CMB 030 - 162 degrees
WP136 pump - 176 degrees

I will post up a pic of all 3 next to each other for size comparisons later.

Last edited by pearlpower; 01-16-2012 at 04:50 PM.
Old 01-16-2012, 05:39 PM
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I have the 10 bosch pump and waiting to install with heat exchanger ec group but
Old 01-16-2012, 05:44 PM
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anyone run a larger intercooler tank that they can pack with ice for the track?
Old 01-16-2012, 05:48 PM
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What pump are you refering to when you say the '10 pump?
I just looked it up in the EPC, as I did a couple months ago when I replaced mine with a new factory pump, and the newest part # is 000 500 03 86.
However, I remember guys talking about a pump with "10" in the part number so I'm confused as to which pump that is?
Old 01-16-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Iknownothing
What pump are you refering to when you say the '10 pump?
I just looked it up in the EPC, as I did a couple months ago when I replaced mine with a new factory pump, and the newest part # is 000 500 03 86.
However, I remember guys talking about a pump with "10" in the part number so I'm confused as to which pump that is?
The 010 is in reference to the Bosch part number and the MB part number you have matches it.
Old 01-16-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 99lightning
anyone run a larger intercooler tank that they can pack with ice for the track?
I am, and highly recommend it
Old 01-16-2012, 07:26 PM
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I've got a 6 gal trunk tank and custom heat exchanger with the wp136 and at the track packed with ice my iat's would be 35-38 and at the end of the run the highest I hit was 111 after hot lapping it. Even on the street it's WAY lower than the stock setup and the cm30. I agree with chawkins. It's one of the best mods I've done in my opinion.
Old 01-17-2012, 06:53 AM
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So I assume the new part number ('10) for the bosch is this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W16...item20be5d94c0

Old 01-17-2012, 12:31 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-aux...item5199df72c1

Look at the pic on the right.
Old 01-17-2012, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by adianaty

Yep thats the 010. thanks for the info!
Old 01-17-2012, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
I am, and highly recommend it
The few I have seen are so hot, you almost want to put a clear plexi in the trunk. AKA ZR1.
Old 03-24-2013, 08:28 PM
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This is interesting. I think i know why quicker flow is raising IATs.
In my company i work for, we do injection molding. So we have little cooling/heating devices for controlling mold temperatures. They are connected by rubber hoses directly to the mold.

We know from own testing and alter on by manufacturer info, that alone from the friction of the water when circulating with higher speeds and pressure, water raises its temperatures.
Example was to fill-in 15°C Water into a test-system without any molds or whatever, after 30minutes the water had 60°C !
We could not believe it. We had both heating and cooling capabilities of the device disabled.
Then we asked the manufacturer and they confirmed it happens because the friction of the water.
Our devices flow around 35L/min, dunno how much GPM that is. Our hoses are around 20mm ID.

Interesting thing i believe...
Old 03-25-2013, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Crissus
This is interesting. I think i know why quicker flow is raising IATs.
In my company i work for, we do injection molding. So we have little cooling/heating devices for controlling mold temperatures. They are connected by rubber hoses directly to the mold.

We know from own testing and alter on by manufacturer info, that alone from the friction of the water when circulating with higher speeds and pressure, water raises its temperatures.
Example was to fill-in 15°C Water into a test-system without any molds or whatever, after 30minutes the water had 60°C !
We could not believe it. We had both heating and cooling capabilities of the device disabled.
Then we asked the manufacturer and they confirmed it happens because the friction of the water.
Our devices flow around 35L/min, dunno how much GPM that is. Our hoses are around 20mm ID.

Interesting thing i believe...
What was the ambient temperature ? My guess is the most of the heat increase came from heat transfer, not heat generated by flowing water.
Old 03-25-2013, 11:08 AM
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I found using 2 wp136's hurt my cooling with the trunk tank. I had one beside my trunk tank and another up front pushing the fluid back and was still getting warmer than I thought it should. Took the front pump off and temps dropped. Don't remember how much now it's been so long but it was a decent amount to know 2 pumps was worse than 1.
Old 03-25-2013, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by e55amgrocket
I found using 2 wp136's hurt my cooling with the trunk tank. I had one beside my trunk tank and another up front pushing the fluid back and was still getting warmer than I thought it should. Took the front pump off and temps dropped. Don't remember how much now it's been so long but it was a decent amount to know 2 pumps was worse than 1.
You had one pump in the trunk running the entire setup?
Old 03-25-2013, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
You had one pump in the trunk running the entire setup?
Yes one WP136 pump. We spent some extra time making sure there was no sharp bends anywhere and the lines into the tank,out of the tank and heat exchanger all had full flow -12AN fitting. The return flow into the tank had enough pressure to shoot the backside of the tank so that's good enough for me.
Old 03-25-2013, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by e55amgrocket


Yes one WP136 pump. We spent some extra time making sure there was no sharp bends anywhere and the lines into the tank,out of the tank and heat exchanger all had full flow -12AN fitting. The return flow into the tank had enough pressure to shoot the backside of the tank so that's good enough for me.
I always thought this was possible to do and this confirms it.
Old 03-25-2013, 02:19 PM
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Makes me think I should drop my 136 for the stock 010 pump since I have a split system with my KC and it doesn't hold a ton of fluid since I bypass the HE. Slower flow might take some more heat out as it enters and leaves the KC.
Old 03-25-2013, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cij911
What was the ambient temperature ? My guess is the most of the heat increase came from heat transfer, not heat generated by flowing water.
We had 25°C Ambient Temperature when we were doing this.
Where are the other 35°C from? Of course those injection-mold temp devices where not connected to our big cooling-circuit, that flows through the entire production-hall, when doing this.
Old 03-25-2013, 11:02 PM
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you guys might be on to something
Old 10-21-2013, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pearlpower
Figure I would post up. Nothing scientific, but before someone just runs out to buy a $200 pump + $35 fittings.....

These were in 75 degree ambient temps. Same data logger. 3rd gear runs. 2-3 runs average. PLM H/E and fan mod only. I'm going the Killer Chiller setup so the OEM Bosch pump is remaining and have since parted ways with the other pumps. I'm thinking the WP136 pump is best for a remote tank setup which needs the extra power, but flows too fast for a stock or H/E upgrade setup.

'10 Bosch pump- 156 degrees
CMB 030 - 162 degrees
WP136 pump - 176 degrees

I will post up a pic of all 3 next to each other for size comparisons later.

I had a brand new 010 pump with same mods in sig. Went to the 136 and my IATs stayed quite a bit lower and recovery was faster. Would have liked to have done more scientific testing but all I know is now when I log my IATs are much better overall.
Old 10-21-2013, 01:54 AM
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Damn I have the cm30 and eurocharged h/e and my coolant temps are 190-200 and my iat max has went to 131 quickly coming back down to 98-103. It's been 4+ years of cm30 pump so I think I'll go with the Bosch 010
Old 10-21-2013, 03:22 AM
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It is a well known fluid flow phenomenon that a pump will add heat to a system, and the bigger/stronger the pump, the more heat it will add. Likewise, the more system flow resistance (also known as head or head loss), the harder the pump has to work, and the more heat the pump itself will add to a system.

Case in point is when we go from a cold shutdown to operating temps (550+ degrees), we do it with 4 huge "cooling" pumps just recirculating water. No other heat source necessary.
Old 10-21-2013, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonota
It is a well known fluid flow phenomenon that a pump will add heat to a system, and the bigger/stronger the pump, the more heat it will add. Likewise, the more system flow resistance (also known as head or head loss), the harder the pump has to work, and the more heat the pump itself will add to a system.

Case in point is when we go from a cold shutdown to operating temps (550+ degrees), we do it with 4 huge "cooling" pumps just recirculating water. No other heat source necessary.
And if cavitation is present there will be additional loss of efficiency. In other words; bigger is not necessarily better.
Old 10-21-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by AgSilver
In other words; bigger is not necessarily better.

That's what she said!

Last edited by superstar; 10-21-2013 at 11:54 AM.


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