Fuel Rail DIY
#51
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 756
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
e55 w/LET TUNE Drinks: vodka STRAIGHT Wheels: 19" HRE 547r Mods:FF headers ASP Pulley
Pic of my 2nd rail. This is for another members car. Picked up a used rail for fairly cheap, grinded down the bungs for clearance, used my miter saw to cut the rail, and then my Lincoln to tig weld it up. I go a bit heavy on the bottom as it is so close to the injector, polish both the outside and inside by the welds to clean it up after pressure testing it.
Seen a pic floating around where the bungs are not grinded down. This would make installation very difficult as the clearance on both sides is very tight. Just to clarify, I did this as a favor, not for profit, or interested in another.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6927862769_d03d25be28_b.jpg)
Seen a pic floating around where the bungs are not grinded down. This would make installation very difficult as the clearance on both sides is very tight. Just to clarify, I did this as a favor, not for profit, or interested in another.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6927862769_d03d25be28_b.jpg)
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Pic of my 2nd rail. This is for another members car. Picked up a used rail for fairly cheap, grinded down the bungs for clearance, used my miter saw to cut the rail, and then my Lincoln to tig weld it up. I go a bit heavy on the bottom as it is so close to the injector, polish both the outside and inside by the welds to clean it up after pressure testing it.
Seen a pic floating around where the bungs are not grinded down. This would make installation very difficult as the clearance on both sides is very tight. Just to clarify, I did this as a favor, not for profit, or interested in another.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seen a pic floating around where the bungs are not grinded down. This would make installation very difficult as the clearance on both sides is very tight. Just to clarify, I did this as a favor, not for profit, or interested in another.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#53
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Also, the stock fuel inlet is 6mm which I drilled out to 8mm. I think a few others have gone larger, just that I did not want to compromise the integrity of the line, not claiming it would, just leaving a wide margin of safety. Will post a pic. I did this one for a local buddy at risk with his mods. Please no request for others, as my time is limited.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
thanks for posting a pic of the drilled out inlet, I will do mine as well. I just got my rail welded, now i need to make the connecting line. I bought 3 feet of braided line, how much will i need to cut? It was to go under the supercharger correct? Does anyone have an actual measurement?
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Best thing to do is to just feed from one end as it is connected, then under the blower, then give yourself some slack, and cut. There is a little wiggle room under the blower in case you go too long, but not much if short. Think it is around a foot, not very long at all.
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
ah ok i'll do that. I wanted to have it ready before I put it in, but i guess I'll just cut it once I have the new rail installed. is there a DIY for rail/injector install?
#58
PLATINUM SPONSOR
Drilled out inlet is a must! IMO.. It is like 5mm only and is a neck down on the fuel system as a whole.
__________________
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/signaturepics/sigpic87171_15.gif)
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/signaturepics/sigpic87171_15.gif)
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Once you cut off the ends, prior to welding, drill out the inlet, clean it up real good with a long bottle brush, flush. Repeat with a smaller brush once welding is complete.
#64
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Whatever we're tuning!
The rail is stainless so you have to use a mild steel an8 bung and cut back as close to the last injector cup as possible but don"t use too much heat since the soldered cup will leak. Good luck!
#65
Thanks! But why doesn't a magnet stick to it? I'm confused. What filler rod did you use for it, 308?
#68
Senior Member
Another option for those more adventurous would be to buy two billets, tap the ends to run lines, etc. Also would need hold downs, still affordable for a custom look
http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash8.html
http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash8.html
Anyone use these rails? If so what other hrdware was used? Where to buy the hardware? And total cost to complete?
Also wondeeing how many here have looped the rail on their own and had success?
#69
MBWorld Fanatic!
I got one of the first TTM rails, so although not DIY, the product has been BULLET proof. After scaling the TTM injectors, Jeremy was really able to extend my power out a lot further. With mods, I think it is pretty easy to go static with the stock set up - Been running the rail for over a year
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/bramage-albums-bramage-e55-picture20680-262296-2204701841511-1366340804-32558167-4972312-n.jpg)
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northern Va
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
3 Posts
Dirt Scooters
You can't buy billet rails and drill them to fit (I tried). The Billet fuel rails have been made but just finished some testing and next will be tested on Blackbenz E55. They take alot more CNC work than i imagined to say the least to get them to fit perfectly. They will use a rear -8AN feed and the inside diameter of the rail is slightly larger than the 8AN. A select few have seen some early pictures and hopefully I'll post some soon.
#72
Senior Member
You can't buy billet rails and drill them to fit (I tried). The Billet fuel rails have been made but just finished some testing and next will be tested on Blackbenz E55. They take alot more CNC work than i imagined to say the least to get them to fit perfectly. They will use a rear -8AN feed and the inside diameter of the rail is slightly larger than the 8AN. A select few have seen some early pictures and hopefully I'll post some soon.
so my best bet is to mod my extra stock rail. loop and relocate/drill. i keep reading about the low clearance around where the couplers go, so wondering if anyone that has done this knows which couplers and where to get and mount.. from pictures it seems pretty straight forward but want to make sure others were being succussful.
price to buy these is just un-american
![crazy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif)
#73
Definitely not much room for error. You also should pressure test the rail before installing. I'm all for saving some $$$, but this is one mod I would rather know was done correctly and not have to worry about having fitment issues, or worse, a fire hazard days, weeks, or months afterwards.