nice clean job will be my next project once i find a welder

I was wondering what you were going to do with that rail. Looks great.

Also, the stock fuel inlet is 6mm which I drilled out to 8mm. I think a few others have gone larger, just that I did not want to compromise the integrity of the line, not claiming it would, just leaving a wide margin of safety. Will post a pic. I did this one for a local buddy at risk with his mods. Please no request for others, as my time is limited.

Forgot to post a pic. Drilled fuel inlet. 6mm to 8mm. Taken near dark so I had to really process it to show some detail.

thanks for posting a pic of the drilled out inlet, I will do mine as well. I just got my rail welded, now i need to make the connecting line. I bought 3 feet of braided line, how much will i need to cut? It was to go under the supercharger correct? Does anyone have an actual measurement?

Best thing to do is to just feed from one end as it is connected, then under the blower, then give yourself some slack, and cut. There is a little wiggle room under the blower in case you go too long, but not much if short. Think it is around a foot, not very long at all.

ah ok i'll do that. I wanted to have it ready before I put it in, but i guess I'll just cut it once I have the new rail installed. is there a DIY for rail/injector install?

Drilled out inlet is a must! IMO.. It is like 5mm only and is a neck down on the fuel system as a whole.

this may be a dumb question, but how do u guys keep the shavings out of the fuel rail after drilling the inlet out?

Once you cut off the ends, prior to welding, drill out the inlet, clean it up real good with a long bottle brush, flush. Repeat with a smaller brush once welding is complete.

ah my rail is already welded, so I guess I will flush it out after I drill it. what do you recommend i flush it out with? Gas?

Long bottle brushes and something with a little pressure. Don't want a tiny particle getting into your injector.

What filler rod and tig process did you use for the welding? I've tried an aluminum bung and 4043 filler rod and had zero luck. Any help is much appreciated.

The rail is stainless so you have to use a mild steel an8 bung and cut back as close to the last injector cup as possible but don"t use too much heat since the soldered cup will leak. Good luck!

Thanks! But why doesn't a magnet stick to it? I'm confused. What filler rod did you use for it, 308?

Many types of stainless are not magnetic.

Got it all done. I used the 70s2 filler rod

Planning to loop my rail and relocate/drill the feed opening so bump

Anyone use these rails? If so what other hrdware was used? Where to buy the hardware? And total cost to complete?

Also wondeeing how many here have looped the rail on their own and had success?

I got one of the first TTM rails, so although not DIY, the product has been BULLET proof. After scaling the TTM injectors, Jeremy was really able to extend my power out a lot further. With mods, I think it is pretty easy to go static with the stock set up - Been running the rail for over a year

Why not just buy a nice set of custom composite fuel rails ?

You can't buy billet rails and drill them to fit (I tried). The Billet fuel rails have been made but just finished some testing and next will be tested on Blackbenz E55. They take alot more CNC work than i imagined to say the least to get them to fit perfectly. They will use a rear -8AN feed and the inside diameter of the rail is slightly larger than the 8AN. A select few have seen some early pictures and hopefully I'll post some soon.

ok, i was hoping for something that could be done in the afternoon and not have too much tideous fitment issues to deal with.

so my best bet is to mod my extra stock rail. loop and relocate/drill. i keep reading about the low clearance around where the couplers go, so wondering if anyone that has done this knows which couplers and where to get and mount.. from pictures it seems pretty straight forward but want to make sure others were being succussful.

price to buy these is just un-american

Definitely not much room for error. You also should pressure test the rail before installing. I'm all for saving some $$$, but this is one mod I would rather know was done correctly and not have to worry about having fitment issues, or worse, a fire hazard days, weeks, or months afterwards.

^^^^^^ +1

Go with TTM, no worries at all

TTM rail here with corrosive e85, not a problem at all.