I/C Pump Johnson CM 90
#26
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
I can't find an reducer or something like that for the pump.
In need one in 1 1/2'' to 3/4''.
Can somebody help me???
In need one in 1 1/2'' to 3/4''.
Can somebody help me???
#28
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
#29
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Split it ... not sure these bigger h/e help that much over OEM esp if u have a rear tank. So would rather add a rear tank before I changed the front h/e.
#30
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
Hmmm okay.
My Problem is, i can't find an 3/4'' to 3/4'' connector as an 3/4'' to 5/8'' reducer here in Germany :-(
Is there somewhere an adress where i can get them???
My Problem is, i can't find an 3/4'' to 3/4'' connector as an 3/4'' to 5/8'' reducer here in Germany :-(
Is there somewhere an adress where i can get them???
#32
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
Okay i found everthing for splitting.
Next problem. The pump didn't start today.
I wired it like the factory one.
Is there maybe an bigger fuse needed?
Next problem. The pump didn't start today.
I wired it like the factory one.
Is there maybe an bigger fuse needed?
#33
I'm just doing the same modification on my SRT-6 and it seems that the CM90 pump should be using 10A fuse(max output is 125W) compared to the CM30(3A fuse) which everybody else are running.
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
Few things with this pump.
You need a relay to run it and use the stock power feed to trigger the relay. Simply tap the relay to a decent acc/power source with suffcient current (10Amp as its ~125w motor). The OEM power feed is only good for 5A I think. It wont work, and may compromise the wiring.
The other issue that I think some are missing on a pump like this is it does not flaw anything as fast as its max capacity given the channels it has to follow, but it does ensure a decent amount of pressure, ensuring there are no air pockets anywhere and also allows you to run thinner lines - convenient if anyone tried to route pipes for a rear tank.
I see you fitted a reducer to the inlet... this is not a good idea. The impeller needs to bite on a decent volume of water for it not to cavitate. I think it works ideal as a rear mount tank pump but too big for a front mount. The additional benefit is its strong enough to run as a single pump for a rear use application, and also servicable as the motor splits from the impeller housing.
YMMV
You need a relay to run it and use the stock power feed to trigger the relay. Simply tap the relay to a decent acc/power source with suffcient current (10Amp as its ~125w motor). The OEM power feed is only good for 5A I think. It wont work, and may compromise the wiring.
The other issue that I think some are missing on a pump like this is it does not flaw anything as fast as its max capacity given the channels it has to follow, but it does ensure a decent amount of pressure, ensuring there are no air pockets anywhere and also allows you to run thinner lines - convenient if anyone tried to route pipes for a rear tank.
I see you fitted a reducer to the inlet... this is not a good idea. The impeller needs to bite on a decent volume of water for it not to cavitate. I think it works ideal as a rear mount tank pump but too big for a front mount. The additional benefit is its strong enough to run as a single pump for a rear use application, and also servicable as the motor splits from the impeller housing.
YMMV
#35
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
Thanks Steve.
I wired mine like stock and did an 10amp fuse in the trunk (GND) and an extra wire for + with an 10amp fuse.
What i realized. The frist days after i installed it, it was really loud.
I heard it clearly inside the car. Now it's much more quiet so i'm sometimes not sure if it really works.
I wired mine like stock and did an 10amp fuse in the trunk (GND) and an extra wire for + with an 10amp fuse.
What i realized. The frist days after i installed it, it was really loud.
I heard it clearly inside the car. Now it's much more quiet so i'm sometimes not sure if it really works.
Last edited by munich55; 04-19-2012 at 04:57 AM.
#36
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Hey guys,
Been reading all the I/C pump threads I can find and am in no way knowledgable on this but have picked up quite a lot of good information from you all.
I just got a CL55 which I know is slightly different from the E/CLS systems by adding a H/E vs replacing it.
In your opinions is the Meziere too powerful a pump even with a large additional H/E?
Thinking of the ZZperformance or one from frozen boost.
Been reading all the I/C pump threads I can find and am in no way knowledgable on this but have picked up quite a lot of good information from you all.
I just got a CL55 which I know is slightly different from the E/CLS systems by adding a H/E vs replacing it.
In your opinions is the Meziere too powerful a pump even with a large additional H/E?
Thinking of the ZZperformance or one from frozen boost.
#37
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Hey guys,
Been reading all the I/C pump threads I can find and am in no way knowledgable on this but have picked up quite a lot of good information from you all.
I just got a CL55 which I know is slightly different from the E/CLS systems by adding a H/E vs replacing it.
In your opinions is the Meziere too powerful a pump even with a large additional H/E?
Thinking of the ZZperformance or one from frozen boost.
Been reading all the I/C pump threads I can find and am in no way knowledgable on this but have picked up quite a lot of good information from you all.
I just got a CL55 which I know is slightly different from the E/CLS systems by adding a H/E vs replacing it.
In your opinions is the Meziere too powerful a pump even with a large additional H/E?
Thinking of the ZZperformance or one from frozen boost.
Yes i also search for a cheap HE for my CL. We already have that huge front HE and i found the -10C fan mod to be veeery good in support to reducing IATs during hot summer days.
Although i made an "-8C" mod out of it... -10 means fan running all the time in summer once warmed up which is a bit annoying IMHO.
#38
Senior Member
I have the mighty CWA-100 pump in my CL. However i could not spot any huge difference last summer compared to an "older" Bosch 010 pump. It recovers a tiny bit quicker maybe... Maybe... It runs only on 5.5-6A which i strange, since it should consume 10A according to the data sheet.
Yes i also search for a cheap HE for my CL. We already have that huge front HE and i found the -10C fan mod to be veeery good in support to reducing IATs during hot summer days.
Although i made an "-8C" mod out of it... -10 means fan running all the time in summer once warmed up which is a bit annoying IMHO.
Yes i also search for a cheap HE for my CL. We already have that huge front HE and i found the -10C fan mod to be veeery good in support to reducing IATs during hot summer days.
Although i made an "-8C" mod out of it... -10 means fan running all the time in summer once warmed up which is a bit annoying IMHO.
Also is the CWA-100 plug n play or do I have to wire it into the previous pump's harness?
#39
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05,cl65;33ford3wc.
amp draw.
I have the mighty CWA-100 pump in my CL. However i could not spot any huge difference last summer compared to an "older" Bosch 010 pump. It recovers a tiny bit quicker maybe... Maybe... It runs only on 5.5-6A which i strange, since it should consume 10A according to the data sheet.
Yes i also search for a cheap HE for my CL. We already have that huge front HE and i found the -10C fan mod to be veeery good in support to reducing IATs during hot summer days.
Although i made an "-8C" mod out of it... -10 means fan running all the time in summer once warmed up which is a bit annoying IMHO.
Yes i also search for a cheap HE for my CL. We already have that huge front HE and i found the -10C fan mod to be veeery good in support to reducing IATs during hot summer days.
Although i made an "-8C" mod out of it... -10 means fan running all the time in summer once warmed up which is a bit annoying IMHO.