After pinning, dyno tune, driving 100 miles, new look at the 195mm RTR pulley wobble

PS: A LITTLE wobble, aka a little runout, will not hurt you, but SERIOUS wobble will kill you
Last edited by MRAMG1; Apr 17, 2012 at 03:06 PM.
The big rtr pulley has veryyyy little space between the water pump pulley and the outer ring of the crank pulley. Its actually one of the first things I noticed. And I even said if there's any wobble they will make contact. I saw Steve car first hand at the track and it was bad. Like really really bad. Sucks cuz he was going to crush the record.
The big rtr pulley has veryyyy little space between the water pump pulley and the outer ring of the crank pulley. Its actually one of the first things I noticed. And I even said if there's any wobble they will make contact. I saw Steve car first hand at the track and it was bad. Like really really bad. Sucks cuz he was going to crush the record.

Wobble is ALWAYS bad, what I was stating above is a little run out. I have seen STOCK Ford, GM, and BMW's have a little runout, aka they look like they are out of round under a strobe light, or even visisual.
But WOBBLE will kill your engine ASAFP
Last edited by chawkins2001; Apr 17, 2012 at 04:35 PM.
I'm just saying if you want to bolster your claim against the part supplier, I would have someone other than BIP do the forensic work, since it's already foregone conclusion what BIP will determine. Not trying to be contrarian, and I know you're a big BIP true believer, but you'll be much better off in the long run having two unrelated sets of "experts" saying it's a product issue, not just the one that may or may not have mucked up the original install and caused issues as PTE has suggested elsewhere. Regardless of where the fault lies, it's a shame that doing pullies continues to create costly disasters for owners.
Last edited by komp55; Apr 17, 2012 at 04:13 PM.
I would saggest a pulley like pte has,like mine and like most tuners like renntech,kleemann,brabus etc use a stock oem pulley and press fit a outer ring on without welds that could throw the ballance off.
I went threw the wobbling pulleys and the stress you get thinking you can damage the engine is not worth the 300-400 in savings.
I will have a oem 180 for sale soon if I can get some time to install the stock pulley on my car and if you need a stock pulley to get a outer ring press fitted on I have a few of those also.
Sent you a message
I'm just saying if you want to bolster your claim against the part supplier, I would have someone other than BIP do the forensic work, since it's already foregone conclusion what BIP will determine. Not trying to be contrarian, and I know you're a big BIP true believer, but you'll be much better off in the long run having two unrelated sets of "experts" saying it's a product issue, not just the one that may or may not have mucked up the original install and caused issues as PTE has suggested elsewhere. Regardless of where the fault lies, it's a shame that doing pullies continues to create costly disasters for owners.
First time, belt slipped, pulley wobbled, threw the belt and spun on my crank shaft. Second time, same thing happened to Steve, pulley had a slight wobble and started scuffing the WP pulley, he was told this is ok, so he continued to drive the car and went to MIR, belt was thrown, violent wobble of crank pulley, and it spun on the shaft, toasted crank. Third time, my second RTR pulley was straight after install at idle, dyno time and 100 miles of street driving, the crank pulley is now wobbling and scuffing the WP pulley. You see a trend here homey, you telling me that BIP installed my RTR pulley incorrectly twice, and Steves shop in Nova installed his RTR pulley incorrectly too

I dont buy it
Last edited by chawkins2001; Apr 17, 2012 at 04:32 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
First time, belt slipped, pulley wobbled, threw the belt and spun on my crank shaft. Second time, same thing happened to Steve, pulley had a slight wobble and started scuffing the WP pulley, he was told this is ok, so he continued to drive the car and went to MIR, belt was thrown, violent wobble of crank pulley, and it spun on the shaft, toasted crank. Third time, my second RTR pulley was straight after install at idle, dyno time and 100 miles of street driving, the crank pulley is now wobbling and scuffing the WP pulley. You see a trend here homey, you telling me that BIP installed my RTR pulley incorrectly twice, and Steves shop in Nova installed his RTR pulley incorrectly too

I dont buy it

Craig, you know im in the area I'd be more than happy to take a look at it for you if you'd like. Not saying anything was installed wrong but i'll shoot you straight.
It is ludicrous that people have the audacity to say that they need to step it up. This is racing - and a racing industry. Things break, cars break, and peoples egos break. It sucks. But to brandish a pulley as causing the fault of these failures is fine if that has been proven, but to date that is not the case.
First of all - Chawkins - your "first" pulley failure was pretty well documented that the installer missed the keyway - causing the pulley to spin off. Clearly, there was damage done enough that you drilled and modified your "second" pulley- in essence - rigging it. Your installers should have pulled it apart and inspected it before another pulley was put on.
First time, belt slipped, pulley wobbled, threw the belt and spun on my crank shaft. Second time, same thing happened to Steve, pulley had a slight wobble and started scuffing the WP pulley, he was told this is ok, so he continued to drive the car and went to MIR, belt was thrown, violent wobble of crank pulley, and it spun on the shaft, toasted crank. Third time, my second RTR pulley was straight after install at idle, dyno time and 100 miles of street driving, the crank pulley is now wobbling and scuffing the WP pulley. You see a trend here homey, you telling me that BIP installed my RTR pulley incorrectly twice, and Steves shop in Nova installed his RTR pulley incorrectly too

I dont buy it

People refer to this pulley as a bolt on design - but EVERY pulley is a bolt on design. It is the crank bolt that is at issue here, not the ring bolts. Were new bolts used on every install? Did anyone check that the crank bolt was still tightened to the proper torque? Clearly not, if the crank bolts are backing out and then a pulley is backing off, wobbling, spinning or coming off -then no one is checking these things. These are torque to yield bolts and require very precise installation, over tightening or under tightening (easy to do) can ruin the bolts purpose. What tools or methods were used to do the install? Poor tools, like strap wrenches can cause major issues as well. So there is alot of additional information that needs to be forthcoming to make your accusations and wrants even partially justifiable.
These are aftermarket parts- used on cars with the sole intent of gaining more horsepower or racing, look on every forum, people race, people break, but they don't whine and cry and expect the world to replace their stuff for free. Grow up - it's racing - there's no warranty for that. Seriously- if your lugnuts come loose and your wheel flies off are you going after the wheel company?
It is ludicrous that people have the audacity to say that they need to step it up. This is racing - and a racing industry. Things break, cars break, and peoples egos break. It sucks. But to brandish a pulley as causing the fault of these failures is fine if that has been proven, but to date that is not the case.
First of all - Chawkins - your "first" pulley failure was pretty well documented that the installer missed the keyway - causing the pulley to spin off. Clearly, there was damage done enough that you drilled and modified your "second" pulley- in essence - rigging it. Your installers should have pulled it apart and inspected it before another pulley was put on.
You should not buy it - because that version of the story is not exactly accurate. Blending your story with Steve's is a stretch.
People refer to this pulley as a bolt on design - but EVERY pulley is a bolt on design. It is the crank bolt that is at issue here, not the ring bolts. Were new bolts used on every install? Did anyone check that the crank bolt was still tightened to the proper torque? Clearly not, if the crank bolts are backing out and then a pulley is backing off, wobbling, spinning or coming off -then no one is checking these things. These are torque to yield bolts and require very precise installation, over tightening or under tightening (easy to do) can ruin the bolts purpose. What tools or methods were used to do the install? Poor tools, like strap wrenches can cause major issues as well. So there is alot of additional information that needs to be forthcoming to make your accusations and wrants even partially justifiable.
These are aftermarket parts- used on cars with the sole intent of gaining more horsepower or racing, look on every forum, people race, people break, but they don't whine and cry and expect the world to replace their stuff for free. Grow up - it's racing - there's no warranty for that. Seriously- if your lugnuts come loose and your wheel flies off are you going after the wheel company?
Marcus- you're violating your own mbw posting rule
It is ludicrous that people have the audacity to say that they need to step it up. This is racing - and a racing industry. Things break, cars break, and peoples egos break. It sucks. But to brandish a pulley as causing the fault of these failures is fine if that has been proven, but to date that is not the case.
First of all - Chawkins - your "first" pulley failure was pretty well documented that the installer missed the keyway - causing the pulley to spin off. Clearly, there was damage done enough that you drilled and modified your "second" pulley- in essence - rigging it. Your installers should have pulled it apart and inspected it before another pulley was put on.
You should not buy it - because that version of the story is not exactly accurate. Blending your story with Steve's is a stretch.
People refer to this pulley as a bolt on design - but EVERY pulley is a bolt on design. It is the crank bolt that is at issue here, not the ring bolts. Were new bolts used on every install? Did anyone check that the crank bolt was still tightened to the proper torque? Clearly not, if the crank bolts are backing out and then a pulley is backing off, wobbling, spinning or coming off -then no one is checking these things. These are torque to yield bolts and require very precise installation, over tightening or under tightening (easy to do) can ruin the bolts purpose. What tools or methods were used to do the install? Poor tools, like strap wrenches can cause major issues as well. So there is alot of additional information that needs to be forthcoming to make your accusations and wrants even partially justifiable.
These are aftermarket parts- used on cars with the sole intent of gaining more horsepower or racing, look on every forum, people race, people break, but they don't whine and cry and expect the world to replace their stuff for free. Grow up - it's racing - there's no warranty for that. Seriously- if your lugnuts come loose and your wheel flies off are you going after the wheel company?

After a little more research it seems that this may be a product offered by a Shardul? Is this accurate?
needless to say i had my pulley installed by someone else that eurocharged recommended...

After a little more research it seems that this may be a product offered by a Shardul? Is this accurate?
Nevertheless, several crank pulley manufacturers have experienced issues over the years.
Knock wood my dampened evosport 178 doesn’t 86 a crank.












