dreilly36

Where did you find this for $90?

Ronnie Benini

Where is the purge valve located. I changed the pvc valve because of dipstick popping. I would like to check that also. My car only has 40K miles. Dip stick started popping on my cls 63 after installing headers.

newguy2008

So is your car running perfectly again?

W210E55_Silver

I just did this on my W211 E63 and just wanted to share my experiences and thoughts.

I used a pair of approximately 3” long manicure scissors to cut the plastic clip on both sides, literally took 2 minutes. Think this would be much easier than using a razor blade tied to your wrist (what could possibly go wrong?!). Just slide one blade of the scissors between the clip and the pipe, turn the sciccors 90 degrees to the pipe and close the scissor blades together.

In hind sight I would not have removed the pipe at all. I would remove the top bolt on the manifold holding the pipe, pry the diaphragm out of the pipe and just replace the diaphragm. When I pulled mine apart it turns out the base of the spring had become unseated (no idea how, there was also some oily sludge in there but don’t think that was hurting anything). I just reseated the spring and it worked perfectly. Since I had already bought a new pipe and removed the old pipe I just replaced the entire pipe, however the pipe itself looked to be in perfect working order.

mahen

Couple of pics that you might like to add of the PCV valve with the intake manifold removed related to DIY - PCV Valve / Breather Hose Replacement (M156 E63)

omar804

does anyone know where is the 2000 ml320 PCV valve or Crankcase Breather Valve, or if it has any?

Yuille36

I had mine replaced in 2017, and they removed the intake plenum, as it provides plenty of room in order to replace it.

omar804

does a 2000 ml320 have pcv valve/breather? does anyone knows?

Yuille36

All internal combustion engines have some sort of crankcase ventilation.

omar804

i cant locate it on the 2000 ml320

Yuille36

You should be posting this in the ML Section. Maybe someone there could assist you further.
I would start by looking for any tubes, that are at least the size of a dime that are running into the intake.
Then follow that back to see if it run into the engine, if so that is most likely your PCV.

Rovel

I am now getting P2189, P0174, P2187, and P0171 codes with the check engine light on. I recently changed the air filters, so at first I thought I didn't install them properly, or something. So I checked that and all was good -- the code is still there. Then I removed the MAF sensors and sprayed them off with the cleaner, cleared the codes, and 3 days later, the check engine is back on.

Now, how could I know what is the cause? From what I found on this forum, looks like it could be PCV valve or the intake gaskets. Is there a way to know before I tear the intake apart?

Rovel

Hi all,

I followed this thread and the YouTube video from Tasos very closely this past weekend to replace my IM gasket as I was getting lean codes on both banks. I took the intake out, opened it up. It was pretty dirty inside all covered in oil. The top part of the injectors were nasty too. I cleaned the injectors, everything inside the IM and the throttle bodies using 4 cans of carb cleaner. I also replaced the PCV valve. I put everything back together and torqued down to 7-10 Nm.

All went fine except I broke one leg of one of the plastic round thing (not sure what it is called) on the throttle body, but it was pretty firm in there even with one leg. (see picture attached.) Also I noticed that the magnesium metal piece inside the IM has some scuffs, but it is not a crack.

I cleared the lean bank codes, but now I am getting P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure circuit High Input error. Any ideas what I could have done wrong?

omar804

i would check the hoses connecting the EGR valve, if those are good with no cracks, check the MAP sensor, if that's good, u might need to clean your EGR valve.

Rovel

Which one is the EGR valve? Could you attach a picture of it please?

Rovel

Update: turns out I didn't insert the MAP sensor connector all the way and it was loose. I installed it properly, cleared the code, and so far it hasn't come back. I think my engine works smoother but a bit noisier since the IM clean up. Maybe it is just me being too concerned?

E63007

When I rebuilt the Top Half of my M156 E63, my IM's Throttle Plate was riddled with holes much worse than yours which caused my idle to rev up to 1200!! Rebuild Master Tech, who specializes in rebuilding IM's, Air Struts etc, actually makes a replacement Throttle Plate that they sell on eBay which is much beefier than OEM. Being that RMT is a half hour drive from me, I had them rebuild my whole IM and they did a beautiful job!! That said, before I re-installed it, I DIY'd a Catch Can using the OEM fittings of a new PCV and located the Catch Can up front behind the passenger Headlight in front of the ABS. I cut the original hose off the PCV and used 1" heater hose clamped to each fitting and set the catch Can between them, obviously.

Take care Not to slice apart the 2 O-rings that are part of both the PCV and the connector to rear of Engine.

Confirming 3/4" Internal Diameter of Heater Hose.

Heater Hose connected to both PCV and Rear Engine Connector. Not pictured are those hoses being clamped to each with Oetiker Clamps throughout except for "quick removable screw hose Clamps" on the Catch Can itself as well as the section which connects to the return to PCV hose on side of Valve cover.


I had to get creative routing the output hose from the crankcase using an elbow fitting attached to 1" of the hose into the OEM Crankcase connector. Then I routed it close to the rear of the engine, which is difficult as you have to route it around the SS Tubes down there, using a couple more elbows and angle fittings until the hose can be directed out the passenger side from the firewall towards the front ABS. I then made some right angle bends around the ABS to the Catch Can. Mind you, this took a lot of back and forth measuring and cutting that would not have been feasible had the Intake NOT been removed! The return to the PCV from the Catch Can was a straight shot to the firewall where it bent gently with an elbow connector and hose directing it upwards at an angle in-line with the OEM PVC which itself attaches to the rear of the passenger head. I wrote up what I used in another post (basically 1" heater hose) however, after driving some 8000mi I have just noticed some oil spraying from somewhere back there. My Catch Can had just a film of oil, nothing which could be drained. So being that I used the original PCV, I'm thinking maybe it's not opening up as it should? I might add that at idle, Star / Xentry shows both banks running lean and as a result the engine sometimes hiccups in idle, however at high output both banks are just fine.

If the PCV was not opening up as it should, I can imagine too much pressure forming this causing a vapor leak to occur at one of the joints I used to reroute the hose back to the PCV. It also may be that back pressure is causing the oil dip stick to pop up, but other than some spatter I see on the very rear of the IM, the dip stitch tube itself looks clean? I can clearly notice some oil dripping from the hoses back there which in turn ultimately drip down around the passenger side ending up in the rear engine cover. But with Xentry showing proper pressure at high output, could it be the PCV has trouble opening up at low pressure (idle) thus causing the hiccup and "lean" reading in both banks? If so, then I guess I have to attach a new PCV?


Here you see the UPR (Ultimate Performance Racing(marked with an arrow) Catch Can. They are in Lake Worth, Fl. made for Charger SRT) Catch Can between the Passenger Headlight and the ABS System.

Here is the routing going around the ABS and the Oetiker Clamps as well as the "quick connects" I'm using a 3 ft Velcro Belt-like strap to secure the Catch Can pulling it close to the foam between it and the ABS. I also have the Can itself positioned inside a foam beer cuzzie and duct-taped a square piece of foam on its bottom side so to supported from below as well!


12/05/19

After getting under the car and seeing oil having been spread again onto various hoses, I went ahead and removed the PCV Valve and replaced it alone by similarly using a razor blade to cut the PCV Head off the "New Breather Pipe" I had laying around and connecting at back to the IM and the return hose from the New Catch Can I installed. Although the "hiccups" I had been experiencing at idle using the Catch Can with the old PCV Valve had now been resolved, yes the OLd PCV must have been compromised, the leaking of oil somewhere was still at issue! It turns out by feeling from underneath with my right hand on passenger side of the top of the bell housing there is a metal grommet that was spewing oil most likely from the Rear Main Seal! Funnily enough, I had used a couple mirrors from below and above but couldn't see it with the hoses being in the way! But I certainly could feel it thus confirming the Rear Main Seal being the Source of the leaks! Next up, Rear Main as well as both Rubber drive discs, new rubber Bushings in the rear Suspension and Subframe, rear Hubs, rotors, brakes and UPD Toe Arms, New Rear Airmatic Diaphragms and shocks!!!



Rear Main Seal before extraction

Rear Main after removal by drilling into the rim of it, then screwing some wood screws into it on both sides, then used a lever to pry it out! No pics of me using the Actual OEM installer tool to set the new seal back in position though, sorry? I will say that contrary to many, I chose to use some RTV on the outer edge and some red lube in the inner rubber edge. The OEM Tool inserts the Seal perfectly. I couldn't find an object that fit the diameter of the Seal to tap it in. In retrospect, this being only the 2nd time I ever put in a Rear Main, the first being on my 93' SAAB 9000 Aero where I was able to borrow the OEM tool from a local shop, I've used the the OEM tools to install the Rear Main both times.

Rovel

Thanks for recommending the RTM. I will check them out if mine breaks at some point. Regarding the catch can: watch this guy's videos on catch can https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCE...gyDuy-UpTp6Ddg.
He has done what you describe. You can see in the video how much oil he drains out of the can. My car is at 66K miles, and the IM was dirty, but not super stained with tons of oil inside like I have seen in pictures. The throttle bodies were almost clean. If that much oil comes out of the can we can see in the video, firstly, where does it go if you don't have the can? Does it burn? And secondly, if we burned that much oil wouldn't the oil level go down significantly? I don't ever need to add oil between oil changes.

Frank_S500

I like this useful thread.
In my case, SL63 owners can relax. There is enough space to crack the lockring from behind with a short blade screwdriver. Puh i was prepared to remove the intake and then it was soo easy.

Cheers, Frank

esphil

Any tips for getting the new pcv back on? I did this job but cant for the life of me get the lower tube in place. This is for my ml63, its driving me crazy!

Danny Wofford

Did mine the easy way, took pocket knife and pried top off valve then put new valve in. Worked like a charm, my breather valve had a hole in it, it must have sucked it through, wonder where small piece of rubber is now

almostordinary

Man, i've replaced this twice now... and pulling my intake for the third time in a year (throttle body has a mechanical fault).

I don't know how you guys take this off and put it on without taking off the intake manifold.

I got my rebuilt intake back from RMT a couple weeks ago since I sent it in for them to check out my TB issue, they smacked a new gasket on it and sent it back. TB threw the error so now Im back in limbo.

Since the intake is so damn easy to take out, I'm going to just open it up and replace the TB with a 12k mile unit from a CL63 that just arrived. Bummer is now i'm waiting for the intake manifold to engine bolts. Theyre one time use and don't even want to take the chance reusing the ones I just put on and didn't even get the car out of the driveway.

@esphil , there are a lot of writeups and youtube videos on how to take off the manifold. You'll need an intake gasket kit and new intake manifold bolts, but also a good time to either replace the injectors or refresh the o-rings.

W126AMG

A bad PCV valve can lead to oil burn/smoke at start-up due to excessive oil entering the IM and accumulating in the IM eventually flowing into the combustion chambers. My 09 E63 (108k miles) is in the shop having many things done - new Black Series hydraulic lifter cups, new plugs, new fuel injectors, aftermarket hardened replacement cam adjuster plates and pins (to solve start up rattle). One issue that I have is corrosion and some holes in the middle IM plate that holds the throttle bodies as well as corrosion holes in the lower IM plenum tray. There are three pieces to the IM - the top part you can see, the middle plate that holds the throttle bodies (post #38 above by @Rovel and the lower plenum tray (also in Post #38 pic). These IM parts are made of magnesium for some reason - I suppose weight savings - but magnesium can be affected by corrosion from fuel, oil, heat. The middle TB plate can develop corrosion holes. This is common enough for aftermarket steel plates to be made in China and sold on eBay. Note that the IM is sold by MB only as a complete unit for over $2k. The lower IM pan in my engine also had issues. The shop doing my work has spare M156s and we took a lower pan from a donor engine. We are having that lower IM pan ceramic coated for some added corrosion protection. I never did have a CEL - my main reason for the surgery was to fix the start up rattle, install BS lifter cups and try to solve the smoke at start up. Hopefully, all will be good. I am also having BS motor and tranny mounts installed. This will be an expensive bit of work - probably $5-$6k.

I had sent Tasos an email on the smoke at start up and he said the PCV is bad and to clean out all the oil that will be in the IM. He was certainly right about the oil mess in the IM. When we pulled the plugs, we noted that #8 plug (driver side rear) had the most signs of oil burn on the electrode. Fear was a bad valve stem seal. Tasos said it wasn't a seal - it was the PCV. The PCV was certainly trashed on my engine. My head bolts had been changed by MB under prior ownership. Hopefully, I will have many trouble free years with this car now.

Link to eBay auction that sells the replacement middle IM plate in steel:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Benz-C6...72.m2749.l2649

almostordinary

Yup, just posted in my thread about throttle body issues that I just resolved.

Had the metal internals put in when I sent my intake out to be rebuilt by RMT. They also fixed a small imperfection on the lower pan of my IM.

hachiroku

so the rear main seal isn't servicable without dropping the bottom crankcase? do you have more pics of the work involved and screws you used, etc? also what are the rubber drive disks?