How the heck do you get at the 3rd screw farthest in the back holding the motor? I see the post above that says they ended up using a "micro" ratchet set. I don't know what the hell that is lol.

I am using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" drive T20 or 25 bit on it but it is a good 1/2" too long if not more to get up in that tiny area where the screw is while I am also prying down on the headliner worrying about something breaking at any second


EDIT: I ended up finding a torx bit that you would put insert into a socket or use a wrench on, etc. I then used it and taped it in the box end of a little 1/4" wrench.



Problem now is I put the used motor in and still had the "shotgun" sound and could see the motor dropping down and moving around a good bit so I added some washers on the screws and cranked it down tight and tried again, the old motor had clearly already been screwed with since it had no bushings in it and several washers on the screws, the used motor I was putting in had 2 out of 3 bushings left in it. At this point nothing was happening anymore with the new used motor in there, I was moving the sunshade but actual glass motor was not engaging? I figured maybe I cranked it to tight or something and had it in a bind so loosened it up and still got nothing. At this time began getting confused. I tried pulling that #9 fuse a few times but then started thinking that is for the sunshade not the actual glass motor if I am not mistaken or maybe it is for both? Haven't researched that yet. I tried hooking my original motor back up and still nothing, I move the shade all the way in to the open position and then nothing after that, not engagement of the motor. Almost seems like somehow a fuse must have popped not sending power to the glass motor?

I am just aggravated at the moment and don't even want to screw with it. It has been messed up for a long time and I finally decided to swap the motor out thinking it wouldn't be a huge deal and it has fought me the whole way.

DOUBLE EDIT: After looking at the fuse layout paper in the fuse box by driver door it says that fuse #9 in the trunk is for the sunroof unit and didn't see anything else listed for sunroof so guess that is the only fuse. The sun shade is working so I am at a loss why I now am not having any activation of the sunroof glass motor and like I said before, I have disconnected the one motor and reconnected and even plugged in the 2nd motor (the one I took out) and neither of them are doing anything.

 

Matt Conrad, I have the exact same issue. Did you locate a plastic clip to install? How did you remove the glass? Any help would be appreciated!

 

Funny how this was on page one, just when I needed it. Suspected clamping the motor to the track better would help

 

Thanks Eurocharged! Over 5 years since this original post and still saving me a bundle! Just replaced my motor this past weekend and Wow, sunroof works like new. Still cannot believe how much I saved. Incredible how the dealer quoted me $1750 for parts and $1575 for labor. True thieves. It only cost me $387 for the motor on parts.com and a few hours labor. Its actually very easy, except for that elusive 3rd screw.

 

Would love to be able to follow the diy with the pictures. Anyone else having trouble viewing the photos in the diy article? Thanks.

 

I'm also having problem viewing the Pictures in the original post. I need to repair or replace my Pano Roof motor the post is amazing but having problem viewing the pics. Thanks

 

 

Matthew thanks for replaying BTW do you have any pics you can share how to get to the Pano Roof motor. I know there are step by step instructions in original post an the beginning of this treat but the pics are going. Any info will help. I/m overseas now but will be home in US soon and this is awaiting me my Pano Roof motor is going bad and I want to try doing it my self. Thank you

V/r

Dariusz

 

My 2004 E55 also had Pano issues with the motor and tracks and was later repaired. I have a pano roof motor from the previous owner that I ended up not using for the repair. It's just sitting in my garage. PM me if anyone needs one and is interested in buying it. I'm in Pasadena, CA.

 

Hey Quan, I'm interested in purchasing that motor. My issue was much more severe than I anticipated and now require a new motor. Thank you. Happy to pay via PayPal, need it ASAP.

 

I PM'd you my contact info. Always happy to help out a fellow forum member. We'll work something out to get you the motor.

 

Matt, have you ever gotten that loose piece fixed? I am having the exact same problem with my pano sunroof, it is stuck crooked.

 

Matt. How did you get glass off

 

Having same problem.. How do i get the glass off?

 

Does anyone have the photos from the original post from Eurocharged?

Thanks

 

i have this exact same issue, exactly as pictured here. I’ve removed the motor completely, but am not able to push the glass down by hand. I am concerned that the teeth in the cable may be somewhat stripped from the motor gear, so I’m not sure that just putting a new motor in will fix the issue, and I’ve been unable to work the glass closed with the manual crank either. Does anyone that has had this misalignment issue have any ideas for getting the roof to close all the way with the motor out? At this point given the age and mileage of the car I’d be happy to just get it closed and then pull the fuse and just not have a working sunroof, but I am terrified about what the dealership is going to want to charge me.

 

I have same misaligned roof on my 2007 E550. Will try removing motor then shoving down on high side to make drive cables even in their tracks then replace motor grommets if they are damaged, stiffen motor housing with the screw and nut method shown in this string, reinstall motor and see if I get the system to operate correctly. Will post photos when complete.

 

i wish you good luck. I ultimately was unable to get the roof to move to realign the cables myself, even with the motor out. I took the car into the dealership, they ultimately put the motor back in and told me they basically worked the hand crank while someone else pushed the roof to get the cables to realign, it does not sound like an easy process.

The bad news for me is that the motor gear where it meets the cable tracks had actually somehow managed to strip one of the tracks. So while they were able to get the roof so that it’s flush to the car (and water proof), I would have to replace the cables and tracks to get the system to work, which is basically the $3k motor assembly replacement that’s probably about half the value of the entire car.

the other bad news for me is that because the track is stripped, the sunroof is not technically fully closed, as it sound like there’s actually active clamping down of the pano roof by the motor at full close. This means that I have whistling air through small gaps in the front of the sunroof, and the dealership said they can’t resolve that without doing the full replacement. So it’s duct tape for me to get things back to quiet.

hope you have better results, it honestly wasn’t too bad pulling down the front of the headliner to be able to get at the motor mount screws and take that out. I was however happy to be able to give the job of reinstalling the rear view mirror to the dealership, as a couple of hours of trying to get that back in ultimately were unsuccessful for me.

 

I am so sorry to hear that. I did get to the motor and pulled it. I also put the strengthening screw and nut combo in as described earlier. I'm going to try and move the roof as you described and see how that goes. Sun shades previously inop now function properly. Not in favor of a big stealership bill...

The original description of how to remove the upper console was a little unclear in describing how it actually comes out. So here is my description of how that comes out for future readers. After mirror and SOS button are removed it exposes the left and right black tabs which must be pushed outwards (in the direction of the car doors) to release the spring clips in the front (closest to the front of the car) then the front of the console can be pulled down (in the direction of the floor), then the rear spring clips can be subsequently overcome by pulling down the sides of the console to remove the entire unit. This does take some force because the spring clips are tight. To get the mirror out just pull down and rearward (toward rear of car) on it and it will snap out of its retaining hole. The SOS switch can then be just pulled straight down to unsnap it from the console.

 

please do sir !

 

Hi urbamworm
thanks for your information,
i cant see the images, is it possible to upload them again
thanks

 

Thank you for the idea. I complemented it with:
1 - Opened the motor, remove the plastic gear, and closed it without tightening too hard
2 - Put the motor on a vise, and press it such as the deformed cover had no gap with the base on the two spots (one if where you added the screw/nut combo), and the opposite side.
3 - Once flush, I improvised a bit by pressing slightly more to deform it in, so it recovers (elastic recovery) when out of the press.
4 - Reopened, plenty of grease wherever friction exists, tighten the bolts and check for axial tolerance. A lot better than before.
5 - 2 of my bushings were completely shot and crumbled into pieces when I pulled the motor. Since I have never been able to find the bushing on their own nor an MB part number, I improvised with faucet washers (flat and beveled).



6 - Installed the motor, and it is working perfectly

I was close to giving up with the 3rd bolt but I was able to lose the headliner enough to drop down the front half.

Since I have much disassembled for the pillars (C, rear seats, etc), I am going for the rear sun shield motor now (fingers crossed)

 

Hi
have you fixed your pano roof can you provide me with some information about the broken piece