E55 Rear brakes
11-22-2012, 03:30 PM
#1
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2014 E63 sAMG
E55 Rear brakes
I will be doing a brake job on my 2005 E55 this weekend,installing new Rotors and Pads. Someone speculated there was a trick with the rear brakes along the lines of the parking brake being electronic and there may need to be a software download before the rotor could be removed. My car has a foot pedal emergency brake and does not have Keyless Go. Anything else I need to watch out forÉ
Paul
Paul
11-22-2012, 05:16 PM
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2003 E55 estate
When I took my back brakes off I found the hardest thing was removing the rear callipers , man are they on tight !
No star is needed to do back brakes and hand brake Is a normal manual brake but just foot operated
Marc
No star is needed to do back brakes and hand brake Is a normal manual brake but just foot operated
Marc
11-24-2012, 01:45 AM
#3
There were a few good diy threads on this topic. Key notes from memory.
Buy the 1/2in drive special torx socket for the rear caliper bolts.
Rear caliper bolts have loctite on them and are a real bi#%h to get loose.
Rear rotors generally sieze to the hub. Bring a friggin big sledge to break rotors loose.
Job is not for the faint of heart. You will be hitting things real hard.
Buy the 1/2in drive special torx socket for the rear caliper bolts.
Rear caliper bolts have loctite on them and are a real bi#%h to get loose.
Rear rotors generally sieze to the hub. Bring a friggin big sledge to break rotors loose.
Job is not for the faint of heart. You will be hitting things real hard.
11-25-2012, 10:02 PM
#4
Super Member
I did a complete front and rear brake job replacing all 4 rotors just last week.
Just split the caliper and stick a small plug in the brake fluid holes to keep them from dripping. No bleeding necessary since the fluid is dripping out.
Open the caliper bleed valve when you compress the pistons to take/insert the new pads.
Smack the rotor hub pretty good as it will be stuck to the hub.
Pretty easy job otherwise.
Just split the caliper and stick a small plug in the brake fluid holes to keep them from dripping. No bleeding necessary since the fluid is dripping out.
Open the caliper bleed valve when you compress the pistons to take/insert the new pads.
Smack the rotor hub pretty good as it will be stuck to the hub.
Pretty easy job otherwise.
11-25-2012, 10:10 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
I did a complete front and rear brake job replacing all 4 rotors just last week.
Just split the caliper and stick a small plug in the brake fluid holes to keep them from dripping. No bleeding necessary since the fluid is dripping out.
Open the caliper bleed valve when you compress the pistons to take/insert the new pads.
Smack the rotor hub pretty good as it will be stuck to the hub.
Pretty easy job otherwise.
Just split the caliper and stick a small plug in the brake fluid holes to keep them from dripping. No bleeding necessary since the fluid is dripping out.
Open the caliper bleed valve when you compress the pistons to take/insert the new pads.
Smack the rotor hub pretty good as it will be stuck to the hub.
Pretty easy job otherwise.
Very easy job
05-28-2022, 05:04 AM
#6
There were a few good diy threads on this topic. Key notes from memory.
Buy the 1/2in drive special torx socket for the rear caliper bolts.
Rear caliper bolts have loctite on them and are a real bi#%h to get loose.
Rear rotors generally sieze to the hub. Bring a friggin big sledge to break rotors loose.
Job is not for the faint of heart. You will be hitting things real hard.
Buy the 1/2in drive special torx socket for the rear caliper bolts.
Rear caliper bolts have loctite on them and are a real bi#%h to get loose.
Rear rotors generally sieze to the hub. Bring a friggin big sledge to break rotors loose.
Job is not for the faint of heart. You will be hitting things real hard.
Use a scissor jack under the ratchet (or regular box / open-end) wrench to break lose rear caliper bolts, raising the scissor jack to raise the wrench handle in upward rotation. I placed a few blocks of wood under the scissor jack for the top bolt, and took out a couple for the bottom bolt. Amazing hack!
Last edited by E.Mahoney; 05-29-2022 at 02:43 AM.
05-28-2022, 05:19 AM
#7
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Why didn't you just soak down the caliper bolts in something like PB Blaster or some other penetrant?
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05-31-2022, 10:41 AM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
I hoped that you put on some anti-seize on those bolts, so that you don't have another issue like this in the future.
06-01-2022, 12:16 PM
#10
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Caliper bolts are one-time use. Come from the factory with micro-encapsulation compound on the threads. After removing the bolts, run a plug tap through the threads to remove old micro-encapsulation prior to installing the new bolts.
Front torque: 180 N-m
Rear torque: 115 N-m
-Front bolts A001-990-08-14; $12
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71; $10
Front torque: 180 N-m
Rear torque: 115 N-m
-Front bolts A001-990-08-14; $12
-Rear bolts A211-423-00-71; $10
