Shardull thanks again
#52
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GT-ER I am worried that from the pics I posted on the thread it looks as if the pulley got a little worn by the key way slot. Check it out and let me know please. Thanks
Would you use a stock key way again
Would you use a stock key way again
#53
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
i believe gt-er did it without removing his engine
#54
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That weld to crank is to much for me and I'm sure out of there expertise level. Did you get a chance to see the sleeve on the pulley does it look good at the end of it?
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
Dam dam dam, yeah he said he has to do, dam just for a 4 buck part it cost some much to fix. Not excluding the not torq enough.
That weld to crank is to much for me and I'm sure out of there expertise level. Did you get a chance to see the sleeve on the pulley does it look good at the end of it?
That weld to crank is to much for me and I'm sure out of there expertise level. Did you get a chance to see the sleeve on the pulley does it look good at the end of it?
crank snot looks good too, looks same as mine when mine came off.
you are a little luckier than me though as mine came off about 300 miles into a roadtrip to canada i had to get my car towed back to nashville which was pretty expensive but luckily once there 320dreamer came and picked me and my car up and we towed it to BIP in atlanta and they fixed me up perfectly! without 320dreamer and chawkins i would of been screwed
#56
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i saw your pulley in the other thread and the keyway looks fine.
crank snot looks good too, looks same as mine when mine came off.
you are a little luckier than me though as mine came off about 300 miles into a roadtrip to canada i had to get my car towed back to nashville which was pretty expensive but luckily once there 320dreamer came and picked me and my car up and we towed it to BIP in atlanta and they fixed me up perfectly! without 320dreamer and chawkins i would of been screwed
crank snot looks good too, looks same as mine when mine came off.
you are a little luckier than me though as mine came off about 300 miles into a roadtrip to canada i had to get my car towed back to nashville which was pretty expensive but luckily once there 320dreamer came and picked me and my car up and we towed it to BIP in atlanta and they fixed me up perfectly! without 320dreamer and chawkins i would of been screwed
and I appreciate all the help I'm getting on this from you and everyone else as well.
#57
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I just wanted to also say thank you to chawkins2001 for calling me and helping me out with some good info on how to resolve the issue on repair, There are some real cool people on here
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2005 E55 AMG
No welding is needed. I just cut a new keyway on the crank with a dremel and installed a new key that I got at a local machine shop ( they gave it to me free ). No welding required since the pulley will hold the key in place and I did the job in under an hour. I just removed the radiator fan and removed the front cover seal to make room. I also stuffed towels around to not get any metal shavings in my oil pan. Worked great.
I installed a parallel key which is much stronger than a woodruff key and easier to install.
I installed a parallel key which is much stronger than a woodruff key and easier to install.
#59
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No welding is needed. I just cut a new keyway on the crank with a dremel and installed a new key that I got at a local machine shop ( they gave it to me free ). No welding required since the pulley will hold the key in place and I did the job in under an hour. I just removed the radiator fan and removed the front cover seal to make room. I also stuffed towels around to not get any metal shavings in my oil pan. Worked great.
I installed a parallel key which is much stronger than a woodruff key and easier to install.
I installed a parallel key which is much stronger than a woodruff key and easier to install.
#62
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I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
Last edited by chawkins2001; 12-04-2012 at 02:50 PM.
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2005 E55 AMG
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Whoever told you that garbage, take your car, and run in the opposite direction as fast as you can.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
I also torqued mine to 275+90 with no issues, apparently EC doesn't have an issue with this either.
#65
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Whoever told you that garbage, take your car, and run in the opposite direction as fast as you can.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
The tech took me back where the car was and shown me what he did and I don't see anything wrong on his part he handled the situation just right and did not cause nymore damage to my car.
He said that when the key was sheared the pulley had notching to grab on to that it was it was able to unscrew the bolt thus causing the pulley to fall out. He noticed right away so he turned the car off. He tired to address the matter quickly before the tow truck even got Ther and burned his arm in the process.
#66
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#67
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That guy was explaining to me that on the asp pulley there is no timing or degree marks on it like the stock one and there is no rubber inbetween the crank pulley like the stock one.
#68
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
Here are more pics of the car the tech said that he torq it right and also said that the bolt would have not held 275+90 nm
The tech took me back where the car was and shown me what he did and I don't see anything wrong on his part he handled the situation just right and did not cause nymore damage to my car.
He said that when the key was sheared the pulley had notching to grab on to that it was it was able to unscrew the bolt thus causing the pulley to fall out. He noticed right away so he turned the car off. He tired to address the matter quickly before the tow truck even got Ther and burned his arm in the process.
The tech took me back where the car was and shown me what he did and I don't see anything wrong on his part he handled the situation just right and did not cause nymore damage to my car.
He said that when the key was sheared the pulley had notching to grab on to that it was it was able to unscrew the bolt thus causing the pulley to fall out. He noticed right away so he turned the car off. He tired to address the matter quickly before the tow truck even got Ther and burned his arm in the process.
if you are putting the a stock pulley back on then the 275+ 90 torque spec is no longer necessary and you follow factor MB spec since its a completely different pulley and bolt (for stock pulley and stock bolt it is 148+90), but with the ASP/EC pulley the torque spec per the manufaturer is 275+ 90... anything less and the pulley is going to come off.
here is a thread with the manufaturer themselves saying 275+ 90 is the correct torque spec
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...mm-pulley.html
Todd -
All pulleys made in 2011 require the new trq specs I emailed you.
Everyone should have the same TRQ specs provided in the box.
Failure to comply will void the warranty on the pulley.
If the tech is unable to follow our instructions, then I suggest finding a new shop to install the pulley.
All pulleys made in 2011 require the new trq specs I emailed you.
Everyone should have the same TRQ specs provided in the box.
Failure to comply will void the warranty on the pulley.
If the tech is unable to follow our instructions, then I suggest finding a new shop to install the pulley.
Last edited by gaspam; 12-04-2012 at 07:03 PM.
#69
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Whoever told you that garbage, take your car, and run in the opposite direction as fast as you can.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.
BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.
Just my .02 cents, what do I know.
Last edited by gaspam; 12-04-2012 at 07:14 PM.
#71
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
i assumed it was since they require such a high torque spec but maybe its the same bolt and they just require it to be torqued higher.... either way, the correct torque spec from the manufaturer is 275+90
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With all do respect gaspam the tech is very smart and it was bad from the beginning, the tech stated the same thing that he tightened to 200 nm + 90 and he stated that the oem bolt cannot be torq that much.
Now he thought the bolt in the Box that came along with the asp pulley was stock one since the they looked the identicle. He also said that there was no instructions in the box stating that it was supposed to be torq to 275nm+90
Which makes sense as I did not know either I was not informed as well. there was absolutly no paper work in the box. I mean **** happens
Now he thought the bolt in the Box that came along with the asp pulley was stock one since the they looked the identicle. He also said that there was no instructions in the box stating that it was supposed to be torq to 275nm+90
Which makes sense as I did not know either I was not informed as well. there was absolutly no paper work in the box. I mean **** happens
#73
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With all do respect gaspam the tech is very smart and it was bad from the beginning, the tech stated the same thing that he tightened to 200 nm + 90 and he stated that the oem bolt cannot be torq that much.
Now he thought the bolt in the Box that came along with the asp pulley was stock one since the they looked the identicle. He also said that there was no instructions in the box stating that it was supposed to be torq to 275nm+90
Which makes sense as I did not know either I was not informed as well. there was absolutly no paper work in the box. I mean **** happens
Now he thought the bolt in the Box that came along with the asp pulley was stock one since the they looked the identicle. He also said that there was no instructions in the box stating that it was supposed to be torq to 275nm+90
Which makes sense as I did not know either I was not informed as well. there was absolutly no paper work in the box. I mean **** happens
but instead he treated it as an oem part and messed up your car because he assumed an aftermarket part should be installed the same as an oem part
as others have said, he should be fixing this for you for free... i know he probably wont as the shop that screwed mine up didnt either, but they should
#74
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The kind of guy he is he would peobably do it for him free but the shop wont let him... and while we were there we saw how the valve covers and all the wires were off we said we would bring u a set of spark pkugs to install and then motor and tranny mount to put in and he was cool with it and is going to do it for him as part of the rest of the job... if it was a random tech he would of not gave two sh!!ts