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Conductor plate.. anything else I should know?

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Old 12-11-2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stockC43
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:16 PM
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running across this thread I was wondering how difficult and total cost was to replace the conductor plate? Some have said to replace the valve body as well.

I seem to be having these issues right now. It's at fletcher getting the codes checked. I asked the S.A. what it would cost to repair this and his answer was 2,000.!!! Is it just me or does that seem on the high side?

Thanks guys
Old 03-17-2016, 04:28 PM
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ive a good working conductor plate if you want to buy it. you can install at any good ind shop ...they just have to change the trans fluid..maybe 250 ?
Old 03-22-2016, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by toymr2trd
running across this thread I was wondering how difficult and total cost was to replace the conductor plate? Some have said to replace the valve body as well.

I seem to be having these issues right now. It's at fletcher getting the codes checked. I asked the S.A. what it would cost to repair this and his answer was 2,000.!!! Is it just me or does that seem on the high side?

Thanks guys
no need to replace valve body, but you may want to upgrade to blue top solenoids if your car currently has the brown ones (only later years got the blues). Buy the newest version of the conductor plate as the latest part number has the plastic strengthened, which lowers the likelihood of it cracking and causing failure. You can get the newest version at huskerparts.com (they are an MB dealer) and should be 2-3 hours labor max to have a shop put it in . $2k is just a stupid price. Also buy your own 134 ATF fluid on ebay so save some coin.

PS- go ahead and also replace the electrical connector and filter while everything is apart. they are each only a couple dollars and the electrical connector over time will fail and the fluid will wick up into your trans computer through the wiring and ruin it, so replacing it now is cheap insurance against that
Old 03-23-2016, 12:33 AM
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^^^ what he said but id say attempt it yourself if you have a couple hours one evening. It really is a piece of cake. I think a total of 10 bolts to drop the valve body and 3 bolts to separate the plate from the valve body and reinstall. You can do the whole job including new filter and fluid for less than $400. There's plenty of YouTube videos to walk you through step by step.
Old 05-19-2016, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by romeomikehotel
^^^ what he said but id say attempt it yourself if you have a couple hours one evening. It really is a piece of cake. I think a total of 10 bolts to drop the valve body and 3 bolts to separate the plate from the valve body and reinstall. You can do the whole job including new filter and fluid for less than $400. There's plenty of YouTube videos to walk you through step by step.
Does the new conductor plate need to be flashed to the car or is it just plug and play?
Old 05-20-2016, 11:34 AM
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The conductor plate is an interface circuit board with no logic.

It will not require any flashing, this is for TCU (transmission control unit).

Pick the best Utube video and stay with it. Just make sure to disconnect the battery and keep the harness connections clean and dry of oil when reassembling.

Cheers
Old 01-14-2017, 02:18 PM
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Thinking of changing the conductor plate on mine and the PWM soilnoid, as I am getting a slight hard shift initially in the cold weather, then drives normal. Hopefully this takes care of that.

When shopping for conductor plate I see non MB ones as cheap as $50 and the OEM is $160. Are the non MB ones any good?
Old 01-15-2017, 07:47 AM
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GET the OEM !!! Why play games.When all is said and done you will be happy and confident of the repair.Go's a long way for an extra $100.00 !!
Old 01-15-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
GET the OEM !!! Why play games.When all is said and done you will be happy and confident of the repair.Go's a long way for an extra $100.00 !!
Will do. I guess the other question I have it should I replace or just clean the exsisting? From reading the forums it sounds like he PWM soilnoid may really be my particular issue. Initial hard shift when cold only.

If if I just replace the soillnoid and clean conductor plate. What is best to clean it with. Electrical contact cleaner?
Old 01-15-2017, 11:58 AM
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Electrical contact cleaner is good choice to clean the conductor plate.


I recommend to just add 1/2 a litre of transmission oil and try it before doing anything as the low fluid can cause hard shifting in cold weather when the fluid is cold and shifts normal once the fluid gets hot.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:06 PM
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e46 m3, w211 e55
Originally Posted by servicetech
Electrical contact cleaner is good choice to clean the conductor plate.


I recommend to just add 1/2 a litre of transmission oil and try it before doing anything as the low fluid can cause hard shifting in cold weather when the fluid is cold and shifts normal once the fluid gets hot.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did check w the engine warm and it appears to be within the marks for 80c. I checked while the car was running and in park and in drive. Given this do you still suggest adding .5 lt? Am i missing anything on how I am measuring?

Also if this doesn't do the trick... does the approach of changing out the PWM / lock up Soilnoid make sense as next step?
Old 01-15-2017, 01:36 PM
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adding .5 litre of oil will not hurt anything for testing purpose.


My next step will be Flush the oil prior to replacements of these parts.


If you are changing the PWM solenoid, I would change the conductor plate as well instead of cleaning it. It is pretty much straight forward job. you need to know the Torque specs of tightening the valve body, connector plug and the oil Pan.
Old 03-19-2017, 08:43 AM
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I need this yellow piece. Mine is broken and my car will go in reverse in every gear
Old 03-21-2017, 09:13 PM
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which yellow piece?? I believe you are talking about plastic inside the valve body where the shifter rod connects.

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