Hi,

I have an 06 e55 amg with 76k miles. I put 6k trouble free miles on the car and I am loving it. BUT, After my Service A the shop says I need the following stuff.

Left Lower Control Arm - $450 installed
Right Lower Control Arm - $450 installed
Ball Joints X2 - $600 installed
Left truss arms-$475 installed (They Wrote Truss,but maybe mean Thrust?
Right truss arms - $475 installed
Supercharger Front bearings - $1400 installed 1k parts plus 400 labor
Fan belt and Idler - $250
Front end alignment - no price listed but said can not be done until above is done. Says My front tires are sliced up from this. I do see it but car drives straight and no pulling or vibrations that I can tell.

I did mention I had a chirp from idler/supercharger area when cold but goes away when warmed up. I read this could be S/C bearings, Belt, or idler. I will probably get new belts and idler and see what happens.

I am taking to another place to have belt/idler done and have them give a second opinion. I figure if I need all this I can find some parts cheaper at genuinemercedes parts and save some bucks...

Also, I was told that I am not in danger driving the car but these things will need to be done at so me point. He said I may eventually feel a kicking or squek from the front but not dangerous. Is this true?

What could cause these items with such low mileage? normal for these things at 75k miles? Could bad potholes cause this?

thanks so much for any info

-Cobra101

Ps. 80k on my cobra that I beat on and it never needed ball joints, control arms, etc... weird.

 

I may be wrong, but when you buy control arms (L/R), don't they come with the ball joints already? I spent hundreds of dollars fixing a ball joint in socal when my local mech for two years in norcal told me it would've been easier to just buy a new control arm and not pay separately for the parts.

 

As far as idler pulleys is contact Shardul for the asp set.

 

I am in the process of DIY ball joints and thrust arms now (my control arm bushings look good).

I spent $400 for upper and lower ball joints and L/R thrust arms (with bushings and ball joint). I spent another $100 on ball joint tools but you can usually rent them for free from the local auto parts store.

I did one side already in two hours and figure the second side will go faster.

All of these parts are related so there is quite a bit of "shared" labor in this job so if they are charging book rate for the job you are getting ripped off. for example, if you are already in there to change ball joints/control arm then the thrust arm only takes about 15 minutes to change.

Check the DIY at the top of the page for supercharger bearing replacement. Part is $40.

Belt and idler for $250 is not as cheap as DIY ($100 plus and hour) but not bad.

My car is an '06 with 90K miles.

 

You're getting off easy. Looks to be normal items to replace.

 

Thx

 

I'm guessing this was a dealer? They sure did try to give you the rape. This can all be done WAY WAY cheaper if you can do some of the work, or have a regular shop do it.

 

Cobra, is this a MB service center? Get acquainted with a local indy MB tech, throw it up on the lift and go over the car.

"Fan belt and Idler" What fan belt are they talking about?

 

Thanks for all the info.

1. I do believe the ball joints do come together with Control arm unless their are other ball joints I do not know of, could be.

2. I am not sure I am ready or have the space and time to do the labor myself, so I will probably just get another quote. This was an independent mechanic but I know another that may do labor only and I could bring my parts. either way should be more reasonable.

3. I will be sure to not get double/triple billed on overlapping labor costs

4. The chirping while cold has stopped for last 3 days (usually did it every day) but I am sure it is only a matter of time before it returns. Is it bad to just live with this if it returns? Could I cause more damage like killing my S/charger or is it just bearings only to worry about?

5. "Getting off easy" I guess I am not used to cars breaking such parts in 70k miles, forgive me, I come from crappy american cars not 80k dollar Euro machines. This is not "Normal" on any car I have ever had with such low mileage. My 2003 Modded Cobra, that I beat on heavily with 80k miles, has never needed ball joints, control arms, etc.. I guess these cars just have weak parts (even for a high MSRP car) and some poor design in this area. I do see what your saying though, my cobra had 1 reported item listed on a popular reliability website and this car has 22, LOL.

6. I am guessing the fan belt they are talking about is the accessory belt behind the supercharger belt?

So, being it drives great from what I can tell and I do love it, thus far. Is it dangerous to drive it around and beat on it a bit? Do I need to run out and get it done in the week or two? Or, is it safe to wait for clunking, squeaking, extra play in ball joints, some type of problem/symptom?

I only intended on keeping this for ~2 years or less. Than if I liked it, look for a certified 2009 Merc with a warranty OR maybe switch it up a bit if needed.

Thanks again for the info

 

OP, Where are you located?

 

Would this be all the parts I need? and Are they stronger or as good as the OEM Merc parts? I know merc parts should be used but if there is a heavy duty replacement I would use it. these say heavy duty but it may be BS.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

and found these, supposed to be stronger?

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...g-2103307707my

Thanks

Ps. Located on West Coast

 

What part? If your in Sac, I know of a few guys that will hook it up on labor.

 

Well see... Now I have bigger problem. Car is stuck. Tranny will not engage. Reverse or any drive mode. Just revs. Only info is that I ran a hard 1st to 2nd, some wheel spin. It stalled and now stuck. Revs only in gear.

Any ideas? Searching the net and local mechanic will look at it this weekend or Monday.

Heard may the tranny maybe shut down and in an extreme limp mode for safety? I unplugged the battery and am waiting couple hours to be sure. Will retest than.. any other ideas welcome.

Retested after unplug battery. Main battery unplugged 1 hour and realized aux battery may need disconnect..so only like 5 mins with aux battery disconnect as well.

Hmmm

Arghh

 

Is this a joke!

 

More symptoms.. in drive with c, and s modes it will not let me tap a minus or paddle a minus lower to any number.

When put in drive with M mode, it shows second gear and will not minus to number 1.

!
Arghh

 

few things.

1. They may be referring to the ball joint on the upper control arms.
2. I had a heavily modified 99 cobra and the suspension was fine. That said, it was a mcpherson strut design, which is far simpler but also not nearly as refined or capable. They certainly don't ride as nicely. In addition, you are talking about a heavier car.

3. If the car feels fine, the suspension parts are likely not badly damaged. Is it something you'll eventually want to do, but aside from maybe some lightly uneven tire wear, it likely won't cause any problems for the time being.

 

Mercedes similar to others do not make their own parts, they outsource out to companies with the tooling, knowledge, etc to make them for the OEMs. In several areas I prefer to NOT buy OEM parts due to inherent issues and would not hesitate buying 'aftermarket.' Also keep in mind however that some parts for OEM are made to higher standards than what say Bech/Arnley would sell to the public. I have aftermarket control arms, had them for thousands of miles, no issues.

 

thanks for info. I will certainly look into this is the car ever drives again

very bummed. Indy mechanic has the car now and will look at in next day or so..

battery reset did not get it driving again, only revs in D,Reverse, any drive mode... it is a big giant paper weight.

 

Well, got the word from mechanic. Blown tranny is some fashion. not engaging and said broken parts inside.

Need new tranny, rebuilt, or another used one plus labor.

getting price now on tranny rebuild. used one is about 2300 plus install labor (maybe about 1k ??)

arghh. may tow it to dealer and get a warranteed c300 LOL

Thanks for any and all info.