PACougar

The simple fact is the intercooler itself is the problem in these cars. It's a triple pass with a ton of restriction and that's not counting the inlet volume that sucks. There is a very real and unfortunately easily achieved maximum amount of air you can efficiently put through it. The reason why water/meth works so well is because it's accomplished after the intercooler, that being said it won't help a bunch with air density because of the limitations of the intercooler but it will help drastically with IAT's. Guys trapping in the 130+mph range(not that it's a very big list) are running modified intercoolers. If you want it to really pull up top that's going to be your best bet or get a Weistec

dllhg

This is what I was thinking and trying to say as well. This is also what I experienced with my GTO even though it had far less cooling than this unit is giving me. Hell today I was cruising around with an average 55 degree IAT and it was 90 degrees out Stop and go didnt matter.

dllhg

Maggie 112. Notorious for heat soak. Terrible intercooler and crappy stock HE as well. Just using the heater core mod to chill water to 70 degrees killed my IAT issues at the strip. $30 in parts.

dllhg

I am betting that my IATs were bumped up a good 30-40 degrees after burn outs. I staged pretty quickly and most certainly didnt allow enough time to let it cool down properly. Wish I had my scanner that day. Would have helped a ton. I am betting with the same setup I could do a short burn out, slowly stage to allow it to drop another 10-20 degrees. Wont brake TQ it which will again help it chill more and I am betting it fairs much much better.

Someone also mentioned air in the line. This is very possible especially on that one weird run where it jumped to 160 pretty quickly. I havent seen that again since. My split system didnt totally take. I only found out because my Fabtech tank was leaking from the cap causing my actual radiator water levels to drop. I had to add a quart every day pretty much. I just got a new cap from Fabtech which seems to have stopped the leaking water . It is very possible I was getting some air pockets around that time. I still dont get how or why the IC would share any water with your radiator. Water still drops to 42 degrees so it doesnt seem to matter much.... or could it ?

I am hoping to get some good logging in tomorrow perhaps with some videos. Supposed to be in the 80s again so it should be good conditions for testing. Just hope I dont get a ticket in the process

cij911

The recirculating tank allows air bubbles to be a non issue....

dllhg

I will have a temp gauge for my water today and get some results. Hopefully this will tell us a lot about what is going on. Wasnt able to cancel the pump order soon enough but I can simply return it to Amazon. Tempted to try it. although it would seem that without the HE even being hooked up there shouldn't be much restriction like a stock setup. Flow probably isnt the issue.

Any way to get more water without going rear mount ? Wondered if another small tank would help even if its only like 1/2 gal. The one I have now is isolated from the engine bay temps though. I really thought 2.5 gal would be enough. Most threads I had read stated 3 gal was perfect and they didnt fill up their 5 gal.

cij911

I would have guessed that 2.5 gallons would have been fine (and should be fine).

A few more questions :
(1) Are you using straight distilled water ? Have you tried adding Redline Water Wetter (I would HIGHLY recommend) ?
(2) Have you opened the top of the tank and verified the water is flowing (pump is working) ?
(3) Could you confirm the plumbing to be KC chiller to IC to HE to tank ? My guess is the folks that setup your system went KC to HE (bad) to IC to tank. Removing the HE altogether will make a big difference.

PACougar

He doesn't have a HE, so I doubt the routing is the problem. For the most part it sounds like his setup is running the way most do with that size pulley.

cij911

Oops...Not sure how I missed that....

Well then it really comes down to whether his pump is working and how cool the water is getting and then how hot ....

dllhg

Thanks for all the help. Yes no He here. Pump is running 100% of the time. Without it running 100% my water only dropped to 52 degrees. Now it gets 42 and IATs get to 48-50.I am just using the water anti freeze in my system. Water seems to be shared at some level with my system and not fully split so I am not sure if
I should mess with that until I get that figured out.

I got some vids of some aggressive driving to show the recovery of the unit. Most normal driving it is just perfect and honestly pretty amazing. I'll post that up later.

trabots

This is an old thread however I need to know where to locate the KC in my 2006 SL55. Thanks in advance.

PS: how are you reading the IATs?

Hulk

Locate??
You mean where to install it?
Read the iat trough the obd port with a logger

trabots

Yes the best location to install it. I am also having trouble finding a liquid line other than the one going to the condenser at the front. I have the gas line already picked. Cheers again Hulk

Hulk

There's just enough space in the space between the radiator and the bumper, that's where to rest the KC.

The water lines are to and from the IC. You need a tank to make the KC work most efficiently. When you go wot the AC shuts off so you need that cold water to cool the IC.

trabots

Yes have around 3 gallons and disconnected the heat exchanger. It was the liquid AC connection I needed help with. I found my answer. Cheers.

Hulk

Do it this way

Pump > KC > IC > TANK

trabots

Hulk, if the compressor is off when on the throttle wouldn't the best way be

Pump > KC > Tank > IC

That way you are filling your tank with cold water ready for the next pedal to the metal. The way you suggest is what I thought however that would use hotter water when the pump is off and the KC is not cooling.

Hulk

You always want the coldest water going into the ic which is right after the kc

The way I suggested you will still have cold water from the tank going to the ic

For example while cruising the water in my tank is about 50* after ic so that's still very cold water

trabots

If the tank is right after the KC, it will have sub freezing water in it ready to pump to the IC when full throttle. Your way, only the small cold volume of the hose will be pumped before warmer tank water gets to the IC. IMO the strong cooling will only last the volume of the tank so for 1/4 mile pulls and longer a bigger trunk tank is necessary. The compressor is de-clutched on WOT.

Hulk

This is the way that joe from Kincaid said to do it and everyone who has done it his way has had great results
Good luck