I still think a plenum with a elbow like that would make a nice gain even on a stock 55 blower

 

How so? Bigger throttle body options? Or just one big 4" intake pipe and filter?

 

Nope, have seen it done, didn't give anything

 

The MID setup is the way to go hands down.
I'm not sure what your guy meant by "skeptical" in regards to open deck block like ours. Darton MID setups have been around for a long time in countless applications, problems seem to be limited to install errors by Ill-equipped machine shops. Many have the ego to get the work done.. "Arrgg I can do that" but lack the proper million dollar CNC machine. The 55k along with many other Japanese import engines start off as open deck but end up with the cylinder stability of a closed deck block after the sleeve install and they get boosted to the moon way beyond anything any of us will do with a street sedan.

Weistec has a great deck plate that seals up the open deck. Then you can dry sleeve the cylinders and get rid of the alusil nonsense. Don't get me wrong Alusil is amazing for a stock application in regards to weight and cooling and emissions but not for all-out performance. If you cant get your block in the hands of the very few qualified shops that can do the MID sleeves properly I suggest you do Weistecs deck plates and dry sleeves.

The third option is just dry sleeving the stock block. Id rather find a clean usable stock Alusil block than do this. The only reason to do this is to be able to use pistons other than Mahle which have the compatible tin coating for the Alusil bore. Either will work okay provided you have a competent and experienced builder manning the tools.

Best of luck!

 

I've been messing around in CAD building a new extended inlet, do you have pics or anything of what you've seen? I'd be really interested to see what's been done and what hasn't

 

Who did this? I wonder what the inlet looked like. If it was squared off and caused airflow turbulence like a lot of home grown parts are I could see why it didn't give a gain.

 

Nope it was round not square and i think I snapped a pic of it
I'll try to find it on my old phone. It made 1hp more
Truly not worth the headache

 

its kind of weird that all other blower cars like the cobra, lightning, cts-v's all pick up power from throttle bodies, plenums and intake. I think the cts has a 87mm tb from factory and they gain some power with a bigger tb. Just wondering if the gains are not there from no retune?

 

For those wanting to fix, bore or change thier M113 pistons/bore coatings, you can also have your block bored and Nickasil coated but you still will live with an open deck desing that can have cylinder distortion in 600 ish plus HP engines.



On the late model GM SC cars , changing to a 90mm plus, still requires a tune tweak or most will get KR (knock retard). so yes, need tune to gain the power or the KR can set you back to lower power than the stock OEM TB.

 

Well, technically speaking there is cylinder bore distortion in the case of detonation at that power level - not the power level itself. A controlled, well-timed combustion event at 600hp in a V8 is less than 100hp per hole. That thickness of free standing bore wall will be fine.

The old adage of a "built" motor is many times the result of wanting it to survive mistakes instead of normal running at a specific power level.

When an IC engine detonates, the event is essentially that individual cylinder attempting to make 10 times the pressure. So an 100hp cylinder in a 8--hp V8 is now going to see the pressure of 1000hp. Things break then.

The open deck design itself is fine to very high power levels. Its the detonation and preignition that kills the motor and/or distorts the bore.

 

Thanks for taking the time to explain. Are you familiar with Weistec Pistons? Do you know if they are iron coated for Alusil? I tried getting this information from Weistec but couldn't get them to confirm. I have their Pistons in my block so was hoping to reuse them in the new one too.

Re engine shop being skeptical. He just said this engine won't hold with MID sleeves. It will eventual crack and break apart. They have been around for a few decades and work a lot on Porsche and Audi engines most of which are alusil.

Btw, when I spoke to Darton they offered to fit the liners at one of their trusted contractors in California. Even though I have 2 local shops that confirmed they can do the job "arrgh we have done it before" I would still be inclined to ship the block to Darton. That said neither Darton nor their contractor hone the cyls afterwards so I would still need to do it here if I were to go down that route.

 

Who are the qualified shops? With the money spent on the extreme end it seems stepping into a newer platform would be net gain.

 

The cost quoted by Darton was reasonable. Less than 3k all in. New platform? Not cheap on its own. Add the upgrades and Darton makes perfect sense.

 

I'm not sure on the Weistec pistons, so I don't want to advise you one way or another on that. Maybe Weistec will read this and opine on the matter.


No offense to you personally in case the engine shop owner in discussion is a friend of yours or something to that extent.. But I personally would file any future advice of his into the round cabinet on the floor next to my desk if he's serious in saying your block will break apart with MID sleeves installed. Perhaps he installed some MID sleeves with a 10 lb sledge hammer and a can of Kwik-E-Lube and observed this result but that install procedure is not recommended.

If you do the MID block I think the logistical expense and trouble of sending the block over here will be worth it.

 

None taken bud. He is not a friend, so it's all good. I'm considering the MID sleeves. Just need to work out the details and I'm pretty much ready. Happy New Year

 

Happy new year! Be safe!

 

What power did it make on your very last Dyno run?

 

Anything new with your build bro??
Is she still running strong as ever??
Updates??

 

Hi Chris, first of all happy christmas from Spain !!

You´re a great light for me.

I´m following your instructions but now I´m stopped removing the low engine cover (oil one)

Could you please let me know how you did it?

In other side, do you have any instructions for M113 engines disassembly? It will be very hepful.

Regards and thanks for share your work.

Sergio

 

I'm not sure what you're asking exactly?

 

Remove bolts, pry pan off. What is the issue you're having?

 

I was hoping there was more to it than that. If removing the oil pan poses a challenge I strongly suggest you procure professional assistance.

 

The problem is that is strongly fited, I remove all the bolds on the low area and the side ones and same problem. The cover doesn´t move.
I think it has not only the rubber seal, it was sealed.
Any ideas?

Thanks for assitance team.

Regards from Spain

Sergio

 

I think that this is the solution:

http://www.crcindustries.com.au/prod...asket-stripper

 

It's got black rubber sealant (no gasket). You just have to slowly wedge a thin ,sharpened scraper in between the two pieces and work it loose. It will come loose, but wait for it to "pop" as you wedge the scraper further around. Don't pry on it or you'll crack the cast aluminum pan.