Macht schnell E55 project
#251
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madrid
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clk 320; clk 55 AMG; E55 AMG
Ok, thanks boss...will try tomorrow and let you know.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
It's got black rubber sealant (no gasket). You just have to slowly wedge a thin ,sharpened scraper in between the two pieces and work it loose. It will come loose, but wait for it to "pop" as you wedge the scraper further around. Don't pry on it or you'll crack the cast aluminum pan.
#252
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Take a rubber or soft "plastic" mallet and hammer slightly at the oilpan, it should come loose soon.
Also.. is this still your Torque convertor attached to the engine???
Also.. is this still your Torque convertor attached to the engine???
#254
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clk 320; clk 55 AMG; E55 AMG
I tried with plastic mallet but doesn´t work.
Yes, the torque converter is still attached because this engine has been stopped more than five years and the crankshaft does not rotate.
It´s impossible access trouhg the service window to the converter, the oilpan doesn´t move...a lot of problems, but it´s a beutifull project.
Thanks for your replies.
Sergio
Yes, the torque converter is still attached because this engine has been stopped more than five years and the crankshaft does not rotate.
It´s impossible access trouhg the service window to the converter, the oilpan doesn´t move...a lot of problems, but it´s a beutifull project.
Thanks for your replies.
Sergio
#255
Torque specs
What are the torque specs on the main cap bolts? I'm in the middle or rebuilding a used motor and it doesn't have the bolts with holes on top, so my oil pump has nothing to bolt to until I put those bolts in.
It's been a minute since I updated the progress on this, my free time comes and goes in waves thus so does progress on my fun stuff like this.
I had to wait over a week for main caps hardware to come in from Germany. Most were in stock but there are a few specific ones that have threads tapped into the heads to hold the oil pump bracket, there was not one to be found in Yankeeland. These are TTY (torque-to-yield) style fasteners made from an elastomeric steel that are a one time use only.
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/04d3604b08154817bb8d16bdf79c9aae.jpg)
Here you can see the difference in length between the used originals and the virgin replacements. They're consistently .013 longer after use
8mm outer
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/961a5949f2eff1c7094dd3ae9518274f.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/6d3942b089fba26c8a5e9cdd5f750207.jpg)
10mm inner
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/3f21891eb1fbea034b431e30bddd01e4.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/e8a6fa6158d9d1340394cfcf00fd73c2.jpg)
So while I was waiting on these to come in, I got busy with other things and just got back in gear on this project this weekend.
I had to wait over a week for main caps hardware to come in from Germany. Most were in stock but there are a few specific ones that have threads tapped into the heads to hold the oil pump bracket, there was not one to be found in Yankeeland. These are TTY (torque-to-yield) style fasteners made from an elastomeric steel that are a one time use only.
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/04d3604b08154817bb8d16bdf79c9aae.jpg)
Here you can see the difference in length between the used originals and the virgin replacements. They're consistently .013 longer after use
8mm outer
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/961a5949f2eff1c7094dd3ae9518274f.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/6d3942b089fba26c8a5e9cdd5f750207.jpg)
10mm inner
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/3f21891eb1fbea034b431e30bddd01e4.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k262/whistlerZ28/e8a6fa6158d9d1340394cfcf00fd73c2.jpg)
So while I was waiting on these to come in, I got busy with other things and just got back in gear on this project this weekend.
#256
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clk 320; clk 55 AMG; E55 AMG
M10 x 90:
1) 5 Nm
2) 30 Nm + 90°
M8 x 75 = 20 Nm + 90°
M8 x 40 = 30 Nm
#257
That's correct.
Also, it won't matter for you since you said you're rebuilding the engine , but I've known guys who blew up the engine in their E55/CLS, and sourced a replacement engine from an S55/C55/SL55, and swapped out the 3 differing main studs to mount the E55 oil pump one at a time without any trouble.
Also, it won't matter for you since you said you're rebuilding the engine , but I've known guys who blew up the engine in their E55/CLS, and sourced a replacement engine from an S55/C55/SL55, and swapped out the 3 differing main studs to mount the E55 oil pump one at a time without any trouble.
Last edited by Sir-Boost-a-Lot; 04-16-2016 at 08:19 AM.
#260
Here you go
https://imgur.com/a/hxDgI
Just get a chrome extension called Photobucket Hotlink Fix and you can see the imges
https://imgur.com/a/hxDgI
Just get a chrome extension called Photobucket Hotlink Fix and you can see the imges
The following 5 users liked this post by Dan0:
AMG-SVT-FTW (04-13-2018),
drothgeb (04-13-2018),
E55amg0220 (04-13-2018),
eFifty5AMG (04-13-2018),
Strigoi (04-13-2018)
#261
Here you go
https://imgur.com/a/hxDgI
Just get a chrome extension called Photobucket Hotlink Fix and you can see the imges
https://imgur.com/a/hxDgI
Just get a chrome extension called Photobucket Hotlink Fix and you can see the imges
#263
Can i replace the oil chaiń with out taking the motor out
I had those same marks from the oil pump drive chain when I replaced my bad pump. We definitely need a stronger chain tensioner spring for that bad boy. Tear down is looking good. I'm impressed how fresh these motors look after racking up so many miles. I know mine looked just as good as yours when I opened it up at 71k.
#264
Senior Member
Old thread but I believe I have the oil chain slap.
Not very consistent sounding and most apparent when your window is rolled down next to a drive thru driver side.
Is it possible to replace the tensioner only by removing the front timing cover?
This is on a CL55 which I believe has way more room vs an e55, especially if I were to remove the radiator which would remove the need to drop the engine.
Other option is to not worry about it I suppose. Still annoying, mileage is only 60k
Edit: Saw this post but probably wishful thinking on it fixing it
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7387023
Not very consistent sounding and most apparent when your window is rolled down next to a drive thru driver side.
Is it possible to replace the tensioner only by removing the front timing cover?
This is on a CL55 which I believe has way more room vs an e55, especially if I were to remove the radiator which would remove the need to drop the engine.
Other option is to not worry about it I suppose. Still annoying, mileage is only 60k
Edit: Saw this post but probably wishful thinking on it fixing it
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7387023
Last edited by Agent-A01; 03-13-2022 at 01:23 AM.