The bike guys use this tool more often, but it's an RK chainbreaker tool. I can't tell from pics the thickness, but unless the chain is thicker than an inch it should.

 

Good information here, and great pics with your descriptions.

 

We're not worthy!!! This looks absolutely amazing thank you for sharing all this info with us! the only thing that I would mention is, do you have any concern for the actual gear that the chain rides on? I know when I was younger and messing around with dirt bikes I was told "when you replace the chain you replace the sprockets" and vice versa just didn't know if the wear pattern on the old chain would affect the sprockets?

 

Thank you! I've learned a lot from some of the folks here that share info and like to do to the same

Hat one might be hard to use on the engine which is the reason I think for MB giving the chains with a link out, but if you've got the engine apart it'll probaly work...
You're welcome! I personally don't have any concern for the drive gear at the mileage were working wth, but it's easy enough to pop off and replace if you disagree. Of course if there were some sort of damage to the gear from a failure of some sorts thats a different story.

 

Will this be running, and running fast before Christmas? I have a run lined up for you

 

very nice!!!

 

Amazing skills, don't forget to change that plaque on top of the blower

 

Here's a caveat on converters I'm not sure if others have encountered. I never have to this extent.

I got this converter from Brooke/ Shardul earlier this year for my E project that turned into this car, but never even took it out of the box other than to look at it and say " yep, thats a converter" after attempting to use it on this car We ended up having to pull the engine back out due to the hub being machined too large a diameter to fit into the back of the crank by a few thousandths.

I have no one to blame but myself since I didn't check it against the actual crank while the engine was out of the car. I Flipped the converter over on the bench and mocked the flywheel up on it to ensure it would fit, and I measured the protrusion distance from the Trans bellhousing flange once installed to make sure there would be enough pump spacing, but I never tried to stick the hub into the back of the crank ( and could have) so motherf**k me.

After lining up the converter to the flywheel and installing the engine and trying to bolt the Trans bellhousing to the block, there was a 5-6 mm gap it just wouldn't go. I started to draw them together with bolts and it just didn't feel right so I started looking closer. Trying to move the converter with a screwdriver through the inspection hole revealed it was locked solid to the crank. I first thought it could be a buildup of paint causing an interference as that happens sometimes with sloppy cheap converters but not usually nice stuff.


So here after sanding down the excess paint it still wasn't even close to going in

Still not even after Sanding off all the paint altogether.


So after turning the hub down to fit and polishing it, we had something that would fit its intended purpose. Engine goes back in again.

 

There she is, smooth as glass. Typically forged engines are noisy due to extra clearances required by the piston alloy but this one quieted up some probably due to eliminating the oil pump slap lol.

Im going to do some prettying up on this afterwards. For now, the tune that was really rich on the stock engine is off the charts lean with another few hundred ccs, higher compression and better cylinder head flow. I have a tune file that Steve @Weistec wrote for this engine when I was going to put this in my E, I'm gonna try and load that into this car later today and see how it works out.

For now I am running the stock cams just to make things easier and not change too many things at once, I really want to switch them out and see the results there soon.

 

This is the kind of stuff I was hoping to come back to when I logged in last week!!! Great work Sir!

 

Thanks! I still want the rest of the ASP pulleys one of these days..I only got the 3 piece set from you and want to polish them all at once and swap out.
No more plaque on the aftermarket blower!
If by Christmas, you mean after dinner tonight, yeah I think it will be

 

That's what I am talking about haha. Hope that other tune works better for the lean problem.

 

Yeah man. See ya Christmas, enjoy the pasta!

 

So did the other tune help or does it need some work? How much boost are you running btw?

 

Nah , Weistec went into disappearing act mode again unfortunately. Hopefully I hear something from them today, else I've gotta call AAA and drag that thing back to my house on a tow truck.

Good thing is, I've got the stock engine out of the CLS almost ready to go. I cleaned it really nice and am replacing the oil pump drive and the rear main seal, and am going to put it back in my E55 tonight so I'll have something to drive in case that CLS has to sit in mothballs waiting for a tuning wizard to make it run right.

 

That sucks, hopefully you get a better final result from them than Ahmad did and don't have to go elsewhere to get the car running properly.

 

 

Can't wait to see this thing run. Sounds super smooth I'm guessing over 700whp

Another great product brought to you by Brooke/ Shardul

 

Steve from Weistec stayed up till 3am (EsT) w me the other night commandeering my laptop and sprinkling magic digital dust on my engine, this thing is outta control now , loving the arctic weather! ( mid 40s last night )

I kid I kid it's actually not hard to control at all, the LSD , and massive gumballs on the back make for a decent hook even with the converter as long as I pedal it a little bit through 40 mph or so, then it's all over.

I pullied the blower to feed it everything it's got but haven't done any logs to see where it peaks boost at. I'm guessing 15-17ish with the bigger engine, better heads and exhaust, and it'll probably drop a few psi w the cam swap. I'm gonna make some changes and switch to a bigger (172ish) crank pulley and a larger blower pulley to maximize belt contact, then add the other stuff I havent put on yet like the better cams, 90mm tb, and get the Trans shifting both better and later.

At the moment though, things came out awesome. Super smooth , quiet and docile under normal driving, but a pissed off bobcat with a quick flip of the pedal on the right. I took some unsuccessful cellphone videos the other night , maybe Santa will bring a Go-Pro

 

Does it have enough gonads to prey on a modded up V? That is if I don't pull the trigger on this 2.3 liter blower, then well, it is just game over for you

 

I definitely think you should get the 2300 . I'm sure you'd whoop my *** with it, but I'm still in for the fun videos.

 

Man I am so close to doing it. Not a TVS2300 ZR1 blower though, the new Magnuson Heartbeat TVS2300 which is said to be better.

 

Does it require a different hood?

 

Nope, stock hood. The even offer it for the corvette with a lower lid on it to clear their hood. The Vette guys just get a little smaller intercooler cores due to the clearance issue and need to make the lid smaller for them.

Lingenfelter tested it on their engine dyno with a stock displacement 6.2 with one of their cams which I don't think was very big and ported heads running on ms109 with it running at a lower blower speed than I run my 1900 at and it made 918hp 865tq.