- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Replace Fuel Pump
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Possible fuel pump or ECU issues? Help Please
Thanks,
Bryan
Last edited by bcurtis; Jun 24, 2013 at 02:29 AM.
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And as far as the air boxes go, just pull them straight up and they'll come right off. Just becareful with the y pipe. No special tool needed.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; Jun 24, 2013 at 11:01 PM.
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-G
Thanks,
Bryan

I put some Sea Foam in my tank & filled it up, drove it hard in 90 degree temps, never shutdown. Tomorrow I'm gonna change the fuses to be sure. I'm hoping its not the sending unit & just the fuses.
IkeLuv: you are still having the same issue after you already replaced the cps? if so that is weird. which fuses will you change? I need to do that. I only looked at a couple of the fuses.
DO IT!! I logged a significant increase in my AF/R at WOT, just by replacing mine at 50K!
DO IT!! I logged a significant increase in my AF/R at WOT, just by replacing mine at 50K!
Either way, it seems that most people aren't aware that some of those hidden parts need to be replaced at the 60K service interval. It's an expensive part (as you mentioned) so its easy to understand why people try to avoid replacing it... I could understand how a clogged filter could increase the load on the factory fuel pump (causing overheating and melted wires)... And obviously a clogged filter is going to kill fuel flow and pressure also, and that's bad news for a car that sees a lot of WOT pulls.
To the OP: I'm not sure what the best way is to check fuel pressure and flow, but there might be some kind of port on the fuel rail that would allow the service tech to connect a pressure gauge

-G
Forget MB recommendation of waiting 'til 100K to replace your plugs too...they get toasty well before 50K. For any cars with more than a mod or two, I'd certainly replace both at 25K intervals or so. It's an easy way to take two more uncertainties out of the equation.
There's a port that you can check for fuel pressure. It's on the fuel rail by cyclinder #1. You need to remove the air filter box to access it. It's at the end of the fuel rail.
Get #70 and 80 for each side too. Unless you have the special tool, you'll likely booger-up #80 when removing it. (they are like $5-6 ea and the seal is about $25).
A bad cps won't necessarily set a code.















