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E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by Style_Front
seems like "in front of the radiator" isn't the best idea. Radiator has a job, blocking air flow directly conflicts with said job. I have gotten temps up on my E55 dicking around on some steep switch backs in the mountains of cinque terrea with lots of gas, brakes, gas where my speed never got very high, thus not much airflow. The heat build up essentially over ran my fans ability to pass enough air through my radiator, It's a pretty specific condition that you might not encounter often but it only takes once.
Personally I wouldn't block my radiator.
No one shouldshould ever do that but it seems you misunderstanding the installation anyway behind it and on the side it never blocks anything if so then you made a mistake.
Anyway this iis this is proven and works very very well. I never had any problems no matter temp outside mine always stays cool and 8-10 degrees below. Before 15-20 below. A big difference that's for sure
No med for trunk install I wouldn't waste my money in it no heat soaking at all.
There is a reason why is sold from tuning dealers like
Fabtech, VRP speed and
PROJECTB5 where I bought min (personally would not use that bmw resovoir but iit works and is cheap and easy
http://www.projectb5.com/product/pb5-m113k-amg-self-bleeding-split-cooling-kit
Quality parts = quality results
Last edited by SuperChargerE55; 05-14-2017 at 10:01 AM.
Reason: Spelling correction
No one shouldshould ever do that but it seems you misunderstanding the installation anyway behind it and on the side it never blocks anything if so then you made a mistake.
Anyway this iis this is proven and works very very well. I never had any problems no matter temp outside mine always stays cool and 8-10 degrees below. Before 15-20 below. A big difference that's for sure
No med for trunk install I wouldn't waste my money in it no heat soaking at all.
There is a reason why is sold from tuning dealers like
Fabtech, VRP speed and
PROJECTB5 where I bought min (personally would not use that bmw resovoir but iit works and is cheap and easy http://www.projectb5.com/product/pb5...it-cooling-kit
Quality parts = quality results
I installed a he last week on my buddy's care and he's fbo with a 77 clutched but his tuner makes his clutch work like a fixed once engaged and shuts off only at a complete stop .No split ,and his temps are 8 to 13 above ambient and recovers back in 30 seconds flat after a hard pull.This goes to show when your cooling is fully up to par and always flushed with no bubbles the results you get .
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by oneslow55
I installed a he last week on my buddy's care and he's fbo with a 77 clutched but his tuner makes his clutch work like a fixed once engaged and shuts off only at a complete stop .No split ,and his temps are 8 to 13 above ambient and recovers back in 30 seconds flat after a hard pull.This goes to show when your cooling is fully up to par and always flushed with no bubbles the results you get .
this may be a couple of stupid questions but once the separate reservoir is installed am I supposed to fill it up with coolant? if so how much? also the cap on the BMW reservoir has a breather hole, should I plug it or leave it as is ? ...this is on a 2005 E 55...
I appreciate the input...
1]For those that have split their cooling. What exactly is the process and how difficult is it to do?
What difference did you see your IATs and how does the car drive after the split?
I would think the car's IATs would drop significantly after the split.
Also, how necessary is a trunk tank for an otherwise street car with only a few basic upgrades?
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Not Difficult but all depends on your own skills of course
First I found it to be a PITA but found not that at all and on mine you cant just jank the fan out and from bottom and up no space what so every complete waste of time unless you want remove everything first,
I did mine all from above and down engine bay no issues
Yes it drops I also posted som logings in another thread this one:
I diffently advice UPGRADE Pump first no need go to crazy for the pump but a better than the factory one that alone is a must really I strongly advice it.
And no need to trunk tank NO just like you said it all depents on your goal, I love this it pretty straight forward and really not expensive upgrade works like a charm work for me now I never had problems since
You WONT lower the IAT's but you wil get a much improved recovery time and that is the goal.
, the faster it recovers or some say regenerates it doesnt matter all the same
the faster your supercharger /Kompressor is ready for BOOST no heat soaking.
Yes mine dropped a bit to it also depens on daily weather if you keep loggig you will se it go up and down depending on weather I logged so much I got tired of it lol starring at that thing hahah.
I can with ease in mind say this IT WORKS and you wll be happy, also if your pump today is ok no heat soak start here wait witht he pump but if you want have more upgrade to a better pump.
Sorry I didnt have time to put in good but hope it works for you: is really easy
but MAKE Sure you have som clambs to hold the lines so yo dont loose to much fluid some will be lost.
Good luck bro
Not Difficult but all depends on your own skills of course
First I found it to be a PITA but found not that at all and on mine you cant just jank the fan out and from bottom and up no space what so every complete waste of time unless you want remove everything first,
I did mine all from above and down engine bay no issues
Yes it drops I also posted som logings in another thread this one:
I diffently advice UPGRADE Pump first no need go to crazy for the pump but a better than the factory one that alone is a must really I strongly advice it.
And no need to trunk tank NO just like you said it all depents on your goal, I love this it pretty straight forward and really not expensive upgrade works like a charm work for me now I never had problems since
You WONT lower the IAT's but you wil get a much improved recovery time and that is the goal.
, the faster it recovers or some say regenerates it doesnt matter all the same
the faster your supercharger /Kompressor is ready for BOOST no heat soaking.
Yes mine dropped a bit to it also depens on daily weather if you keep loggig you will se it go up and down depending on weather I logged so much I got tired of it lol starring at that thing hahah.
I can with ease in mind say this IT WORKS and you wll be happy, also if your pump today is ok no heat soak start here wait witht he pump but if you want have more upgrade to a better pump.
Sorry I didnt have time to put in good but hope it works for you: is really easy
but MAKE Sure you have som clambs to hold the lines so yo dont loose to much fluid some will be lost.
Good luck bro
Seriously, the Johnson CM30 has less flow than the Bosch 010 ??...I have read that the CM30 has more flow and is a better ALL around pump than the Bosch 010.. Have you tested it yourself ?? I also re wired it so it goes on IMMEDIATELY after I turn on the engine but honestly I don't see any difference than the stock wiring...😕
Seriously, the Johnson CM30 has less flow than the Bosch 010 ??...I have read that the CM30 has more flow and is a better ALL around pump than the Bosch 010.. Have you tested it yourself ?? I also re wired it so it goes on IMMEDIATELY after I turn on the engine but honestly I don't see any difference than the stock wiring...��
People initially bought it because the CM30 claims a high flow rate but that rating is only when the pump is pushing against zero system pressure. At higher system differential pressures it flow significantly less. The Pierburg pumps CWA50/CWA100 have been crowned king for the most part. The CWA100 is what VPR sells, I forget what they named it, like a super pump or something. But you can find the 100 and 50 used on ebay for a very good deal if you can find the part numbers to search for. I got myself a 50 for like $90.
I attached a chart with pump flows courtesy of others on the forum who have done extensive testing. You need to look at the cooler resistance curve to see what the pumps flow at the estimated DP of the factory intercooler and hx.
Hey Drothgeb ,
thanks for your reply.... After looking at the chart all I can say about my Johnson CM 30 is --> damn that's disappointing! It seems I was better off with the Bosch 010 🤔..I am going to be on the lookout for a CW 50 or 100 then. How do you have your pump wired ? Through the stock wiring ? After reading many of the threads I ended up re wiring my pump to turn on immediately as the engine turns on , instead of the stock wiring which i believe turns on the pump only after a certain temp., but to be perfectly honest I don't really see any difference in temp. Nor in recovery time....
It is a different electrical connector, and not made for our bracket. I bought a used CWA50 off Ebay, Part#:11517566335
I bought a pump w/ a BMW bracket because I knew I had to come up with a way to mount it, but ended up using the stock bracket. I used a grinding wheel to shape it better and then used a T-Bolt clamp to fix the CWA50 to it(You have to flatten out a slanted edge of the bracket for the clamp to sit flushly on). I also cut the rubber dampening material off the stock pump and put it around the CWA50 under the clamp.
I used the OEM wiring but you have to change the electrical connector on the pump. To make it work you need to buy these:
1 x 12527549033 Plastic Socket Housing
4 x 61138366245 Rubber sealing grommets
4 x 12527545858 Individual Socket Pins
You can put that together for about $100. I couldn't find any used CWA100s when I was looking and they are all ~300ish new.
I've been looking on ebay but can't find the CWA 50 for under $300, I guess I'll just keep looking until hopefully I find one because $300 is more than I want to spend on a pump. Up to $150 I don't have a problem . One last question , did YOU personally see any drop in temp or recovery time with the CWA 50 ? If so how much?
Thanks again for the info , really appreciate it!!
Thanks drothgeb, you're the man!!! I put in an offer for the pump ...( i need to start selling my used ones now because I have 2 Bosch 010 pumps and a Johnson centrifugal 030 all 3 in good condition ) , I'm not looking forward to changing the aux. water pump again to be honest with you, I always seem to take a antifreeze shower when I do..��
Hi,
CWA50 pumps can also find on Audis/VW´s . Part no. 8K0 965 567 for example. And cheap on ebay.com or ebay.de.
They are easier to fit because they don`t need a pwm signal just 2 pins like the Mercedes pump ( instead of 3 on the BMW CWA50`s). Same pump though.
You can also have 2 x CWA pumps in series. Together they will probabely outperform a single CWA100 pump.
That`s what i did. CWA50 pumps have a "progressive" start delay (aprx 2 seconds), so you don`t need a relay,
When adding a trunk tank i would go with 2 pumps, 1 stock location, 1 @ the tank.
Watch and here the difference (1 pump vs 2 pumps), pumps running through the chargecooler. a lot of water.....
Thanks drothgeb, you're the man!!! I put in an offer for the pump ...( i need to start selling my used ones now because I have 2 Bosch 010 pumps and a Johnson centrifugal 030 all 3 in good condition ) , I'm not looking forward to changing the aux. water pump again to be honest with you, I always seem to take a antifreeze shower when I do..��
Oh yeah, as NO2Fast mentioned above the BMW pumps have 3 wires, hot, ground, and a control signal. Ground is pin 1, control signal is pin 3, and hot is pin 4. Pin 2 is not used.
Pin 1 goes to the ground wire.
Pin 3 and pin 4 wires get jumpered together and connected to the hot wire. (This will allow it to run at full speed all the time without a separate PWM control signal.)
Lots of decent information here in this thread, Along with some diagrams and installation instructions we sent out. I hope you find them useful.
The B5 Reservoir is 100% a waste of money, we use the BMW one because it is low cost and we transfer that low cost over to you. The reservoir is ONLY a FILL point. It serves NO other purpose. The fact they advertise it as an advantage should say enough. You are not circulating the extra capacity at the end of a T
We just removed a Johnson CM90 from a customers car and replaced it with a Superflo. Like the CM30 the 90 is a high volume, low pressure pump, it falls flat on its face when introduced to the mulitple resistance points in the m113k cooling system. The superflo has proven time and time again to be the best pump for our applications, with or without split cooling.
Here are links to both our Split cooling kit and our Pumps:
Hey drothgeb, I ended up buying the OEM bmw harness that goes into the water pump just to make it easier to hook up but the problem I'm having is that the plug from the harness has 4 wires , not 3 ... any idea which I have to connect and where?
Pin 3 and pin 4 wires get jumpered together and connected to the hot wire. (This will allow it to run at full speed all the time without a separate PWM control signal.)
Pin 3 and pin 4 wires get jumpered together and connected to the hot wire. (This will allow it to run at full speed all the time without a separate PWM control signal.)
Pin 2 is not used.
Got it .... thanks 🙏 ... i'll hook it up this weekend. Only thing I don't have is a bracket for the pump , do you think the one from the stock bosch pump will work ?
Got it .... thanks 🙏 ... i'll hook it up this weekend. Only thing I don't have is a bracket for the pump , do you think the one from the stock bosch pump will work ?
Also I ran 2 BMW reservoirs and put them in front of the radiator instead of behind and next to the engine heat...
I fixed the pump to the stock bracket using a T-Bolt clamp. I had do grind a small slanted section of the stock bracket off with a dremmel cutting wheel to get a flush spot for the clamp to sit on. I don't have any pics of it though. If you cant figure it out you can post a pic of the stock bracket and ill mark up exactly where I cut and put the clamp
I fixed the pump to the stock bracket using a T-Bolt clamp. I had do grind a small slanted section of the stock bracket off with a dremmel cutting wheel to get a flush spot for the clamp to sit on. I don't have any pics of it though. If you cant figure it out you can post a pic of the stock bracket and ill mark up exactly where I cut and put the clamp
Cool, thanks for the tip & quick reply, I'm sure I'll figure it out now and I'll try to remeber to take some pics also. I currently have the bosch pump running as soon as I turn the engine on. I connected it straight to the fuse box since I read that this is a more efficient way than the stock wiring which if I remember correctly turns on and off based on temperature....
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by VictoryRoadPerformance
Lots of decent information here in this thread, Along with some diagrams and installation instructions we sent out. I hope you find them useful.
The B5 Reservoir is 100% a waste of money, we use the BMW one because it is low cost and we transfer that low cost over to you. The reservoir is ONLY a FILL point. It serves NO other purpose. The fact they advertise it as an advantage should say enough. You are not circulating the extra capacity at the end of a T
We just removed a Johnson CM90 from a customers car and replaced it with a Superflo. Like the CM30 the 90 is a high volume, low pressure pump, it falls flat on its face when introduced to the mulitple resistance points in the m113k cooling system. The superflo has proven time and time again to be the best pump for our applications, with or without split cooling.
Here are links to both our Split cooling kit and our Pumps:
Super super thanks once again
YES YES AND YES pls remember it is ONLY A FILL POINT . took me some time to understand it how it works
yes I admit it yes, but with some help from Philip thanks for the guide and pictures of the systems helped me a lot to understand how simple it is, but critical to understanding it and not waste money wich I se many people do also those trying to save money DONT buy another car.
The Superflow "100" kicks butt even the Rentech pump falls flat on their face see their price pls
with the 010 pump I posted some pictures and test results they speak clear THIS works, what u need to look at is Recovery time, I feel it to specially and I mean specielly after pulls at low speed now it is summer here in Sweden again my car runs so smooth better than ever really not sure why we suddenly have 27 degrees outside but the engine stays cool like always never ever changes
IC always trustworthy = SuperCharger rdy to do another pull ooh yea.
Will new test once I get the SuperFlow pump and put them up here compared with the old 010 "was new tough"
Last edited by SuperChargerE55; 05-17-2018 at 04:57 AM.
Not Difficult but all depends on your own skills of course
First I found it to be a PITA but found not that at all and on mine you cant just jank the fan out and from bottom and up no space what so every complete waste of time unless you want remove everything first,
I did mine all from above and down engine bay no issues
Yes it drops I also posted som logings in another thread this one:
I diffently advice UPGRADE Pump first no need go to crazy for the pump but a better than the factory one that alone is a must really I strongly advice it.
And no need to trunk tank NO just like you said it all depents on your goal, I love this it pretty straight forward and really not expensive upgrade works like a charm work for me now I never had problems since
You WONT lower the IAT's but you wil get a much improved recovery time and that is the goal.
, the faster it recovers or some say regenerates it doesnt matter all the same
the faster your supercharger /Kompressor is ready for BOOST no heat soaking.
Yes mine dropped a bit to it also depens on daily weather if you keep loggig you will se it go up and down depending on weather I logged so much I got tired of it lol starring at that thing hahah.
I can with ease in mind say this IT WORKS and you wll be happy, also if your pump today is ok no heat soak start here wait witht he pump but if you want have more upgrade to a better pump.
Sorry I didnt have time to put in good but hope it works for you: is really easy
but MAKE Sure you have som clambs to hold the lines so yo dont loose to much fluid some will be lost.
Good luck bro
Pin 3 and pin 4 wires get jumpered together (This will allow it to run at full speed all the time without a separate PWM control signal.)
Pin 2 is not used.
So Drothgeb , red and yellow go together to power and brown is ground right ? Also should I run it how I have it now , directly to the fuse box or should I connect it back through the stock wiring?
Last edited by MR E55 AMG; 05-23-2018 at 06:43 PM.
05-14-2017, 10:00 AM
