ArmoE55

So I got into the whole data logging aspect of this car and decided to order some things. Got the TORQUE app (paid version, $5) and ordered a KIWI Wireless Bluetooth OBDII adapter.

I finally received everything and hooked it up. No stored ECU codes, always good start.

Just had a few questions for the folks data logging using this app or similar:

1) Is there a feature in the app that logs boost? There is an icon I've tried, but it calculates vacuum and doesn't show the boost (in psi) on the dial. I am a bit confused as when I mash the throttle to engage the blower, I expect to see the vacuum dial get to ~11-11.5 psi for max.

2) What IAT temps are you guys seeing nowadays? It is roughly 85' F outside, and my intake temps with normal driving linger around 64-66' C (140-150'F). If I give it more than 1/4 throttle but not WOT, I'm seeing about mid 70s C and with a few seconds of WOT, in the low 80s C. It seems ridiculously high. Recovery it is there, but obviously very slow with the stock HE and stock IC pump.


Car is stock for now. EC HE, Bosch 010, and -10C Star mod going in sometime in the next two weeks, hopefully will improve my temps and recovery.

Thanks for any feedback.

1970gsx

I use torque and it does log boost. Also, my iat's driving around are about 15 degrees above ambient.

ArmoE55

Thanks for the post.

Few questions as you have what I'm looking for:

- On the TORQUE app, how do you convert from C to F for intake?

- Which display is the Boost display? I can't seem to find it on my list, maybe I'm getting too old.

- Driving around, as in no full throttle runs, just normal/not engaging blower acceleration, correct?

-Lastly, are you on stock cooling?

Thanks again

1970gsx

I'm an iphone guy, so i don't know Android very well, but i believe you go to the settings part while in the app to change from C to F. I use the free version, and there is a "turbo boost" near the very bottom of the list. Yes, that is my iat's just driving around. My only change to cooling is the 010 pump.

marcmaddox

What OBD/Bluetooth adapter are you using?

cij911

With the stock system most see ~30* above ambient as the starting point and temperatures exceeding 150* is not rare....Once you get much higher the car starts pulling timing. Also, I found on my stock setup that once I drove it (hard) and did a few pulls it took a long time to recover to the ~25 - 30* above ambient.

Once you get a better heat exchanger and a split system with a large reservoir, your recovery will be much better. Add a killer chiller to the setup and your IATs will be great.

black06c230

Go into settings and then select units to change from C to F.

1970gsx

A cheap ebay ELM327 bluetooth

ArmoE55

Mine get fairly high. I will start ~20-25' above ambient, then it'll creep to about 40' above ambient. After a two gear WOT run, I'll see 160-170' and with maybe a half throttle or one more WOT run, I'm at 185-190' and after that it creeps into the 200' range. I am on a completely stock cooling system, the EC HE and Bosch 010 go in soon.

It definitely pulls timing for me.

How much boost are you guys seeing? I only saw ~9.6-9.8 psi once the temps were high. Stock boost should be around 11, correct?

ArmoE55

Yup, thanks, I figured it out after I played with it a bit. I had to change just about everything haha.

Baronet1

Does pulling timing feel like fuel cut off in mid RPM range? My car does this and it sort of hesitates, like a stutter almost/split second fuel cut off feel, then the power grabs and it continues.

Is this what pulling timing is?

I need to upgrade my HE and pump big time. I am seeing temps in the 200+ range after a few WOT runs and when that's feeling when I get to temps that high, assuming that's what pulling timing is?

marcmaddox

Bluetooth? I assume your phone is jailbroken???

1970gsx

I am using an old Android I got from a friend. I just leave it in the car and it's ready to go when i start up. Torque is not available on iphone.

cij911

I answered your PM....

Quick summary - If your IATs are > 200 you are likely having timing pulled and your supercharger disengaged (effectively turned off)....

I would recommend a split cooling system for several reasons : (1) added volume of water will help with your recovery (the bigger the tank the better), (2) you won't have to worry about air in your system (as it would purge naturally), and (3) it is easy to see if you pump is working (if the coolant / water is flowing you are good)....I currently am running a cobra reservoir but would like to get a 5 gallon rear tank + a killer chiller setup.

rchase

why isnt there a mod that just makes our stock tanks a lot larger.... Split cooling is awesome and proven I just want to keep my car lightly modded, wish there was something like this

cij911

There is....

rchase

one that goes where the OE one sits? or are we talking like trunk mount...
I just wish there was something that you could swap the main unit with.

berti_00

i need to try this app too i have it already installed, but i cant find the plug in for IAT

ArmoE55

???

You plug the adapter into the OBDII port and it connects to your phone through the bluetooth.

What you mean can't find the plug in for IAT? IAT is just one of the displays you can choose to log the temps.

AgSilver

Simply splitting the HE/IC from the engine cooling with a small reservoir IE BMW power steering tank will not provide any improvement. The factory design incorporates a simple "T" fitting. There is no way any circulation from the heated engine coolant can occur. This is why there is a bleeder nipple on the IC coolant line. In theory, the increase in pressure in the system should increase the heat transfer capacity of the coolant.

The addition of any type of chill water system to increase the temperature differential at the IC will definitely help. The addition of only a HE with greater BTU capacity will help recovery times and also allow the IC to operate at its maximum BTU capacity.

With an oversize HE (no system split), phenolic spacers, NASA heat reflective tape on intake pipes and air boxes, my IAT's run about 10F-12F above ambient while cruising at 100MPH.

I did a WOT run today on the A3 against a tricked-out yellow C63. Max engine RPM's were 6,800 on a 168mm pulley and my IAT's never went above 160F. Recovery to 15F over ambient took about 30 seconds.

ArmoE55

Can you elaborate on the chill water system at the IC? Have you done this yourself?

If I'm understanding this correctly, you have those sort of IATs with only a larger HE and upgraded pump? If so, wow. And you have a larger crank pulley, too? Damn.

thunderclaps

Go to your vehicle profile and type (0) for boost adjustment. If you are not at see level add digits deppending where you live. I am at 4000 feet so I added 1.3 . That should help your boost reading. Tps is going to be about 90-95% until you get traction. I usually see 20 above ambient with brand new pump, about 45 abouve at wot with a 168mm pulley.

rchase

what is the ratio in coolant you are running. i am in utah, have a winter car and garage the E.... wanting to bring it to like 80/20 or even 90/10 and add water wetter.... anyone done research into this?

thunderclaps

I am ussing OEM 50/50 with distiled water. I live in Tucson AZ. The more water the better heat disipation , but will risk corrossion.

AgSilver

First, am using an ASP 168mm pulley, so there is a lesser amount of heat generated.

The chill water systems I refer to are recirculating tanks, usually located in the trunk that can be filled with ice or a chilling system (Killer-Chiller) which uses the AC to reduce the IC coolant temperature significantly below ambient which results in lower IAT's. For installations that spin the SC faster, thus generating more heat, these systems are quite helpful.

My system, as I mentioned, is not split and I have incorporated the modifications I described in my previous post. As for the IC pump; I have a Johnson CM30 which I installed in 2006. It is well made and does not cavitate as its capacity is well matched to the installation.

There is a great deal of radiant heat in the engine compartment and all those black tubes and air boxes act like a great heat sponge and add heat to the intake air before it gets to the SC. The addition of the NASA style reflective tape reduces radiant heating to practically zero. This is no secret to the motor sports community and is widely used because it is effective.