Going to the bottle (Chawkins)
10-04-2016, 09:11 PM
#52
Guys, re-posting my post which was at the bottom of page 2 - now we are at the top of page 3 so everyone understands the context...
Fellas,
Doing a lot of digging. Tick tack info on Nitro, the technology has evolved, and I BELIEVE it is viewed as less risky (do I dare type "safe")...
I am on a quest for lower IAT's. Please provide thoughts...
Option #1 is Meth. Some tuners (a very highly respected one) "no like"...
Option #2 is Nitros. A highly respected tuner is OK with Nitros is very small doses (35 to 50 wet shot and won't require a re-tune).
The kit and set-up in this thread appears to be "big production" with a bunch of gauges in the dash mounted to monitor vitals and avoid the car going "BOOM", the bottle is in the back seat, references to different jet sizes and Nitros/Fuel mixtures, there is a fuel rail in the heat exchanger (which I no longer have), blah, blah, blah...
Can anyone weigh in if it is possible to do a simple install a a 35 shot?
Hopefully this simple; Bottle in the trunk with a single (or a few) lines spraying into (for example) the TB or S/C.
I would do a 10 shot if it would keep my IAT's down!
Thanks,
TK
Fellas,
Doing a lot of digging. Tick tack info on Nitro, the technology has evolved, and I BELIEVE it is viewed as less risky (do I dare type "safe")...
I am on a quest for lower IAT's. Please provide thoughts...
Option #1 is Meth. Some tuners (a very highly respected one) "no like"...
Option #2 is Nitros. A highly respected tuner is OK with Nitros is very small doses (35 to 50 wet shot and won't require a re-tune).
The kit and set-up in this thread appears to be "big production" with a bunch of gauges in the dash mounted to monitor vitals and avoid the car going "BOOM", the bottle is in the back seat, references to different jet sizes and Nitros/Fuel mixtures, there is a fuel rail in the heat exchanger (which I no longer have), blah, blah, blah...
Can anyone weigh in if it is possible to do a simple install a a 35 shot?
Hopefully this simple; Bottle in the trunk with a single (or a few) lines spraying into (for example) the TB or S/C.
I would do a 10 shot if it would keep my IAT's down!
Thanks,
TK
10-05-2016, 09:02 AM
#54
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping you would surface and have seen other posts from you on the NOS and Meth topic. I believe you have "been there done that" on both...
My plan would be to have the system "live" 7x24x365 and have set to hit (no button to press) at the appropriate RPM range (3,000-6,200 for example).
TK
Last edited by BlackHammer; 10-05-2016 at 09:05 AM.
10-05-2016, 10:21 AM
#56
1) When I know I am not going to need it simply close the on/off valve?
2) No need to make any "electronic adjustments" to the car? In other words, the system simply won't "hit" with the valve closed?
10-07-2016, 09:55 PM
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: murfreesboro,tn
Posts: 3,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2003 porsche 996 turbo
nitrous requires a "purge" to set the bottle pressure. this kills the idea of a "live" setup
10-09-2016, 08:41 AM
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
Should work fantastic Chawkins !!! Look forward to the results!!
I am sure some one {everyone} is an expert in Nitrous so take my information for what its worth. I have raced,1/4 mile AND road raced !!! Nitrous in every car I have run and this was my basic layout in most cars.
My most powerful system,big block Chevy, was a 450 hp 3 stage hit,100,150,200 and that was a LOT of fun. After many mistakes,backfires, melted plugs, pistons and head gaskets you learn fast.
My tanks where always mounted in the trunk with an electronic shut off valve. The entire system was controlled by one main switch. Turn this on and tank is now open with system armed, bottle warmer's on and the computer would automatically turn a small purge valve on up front for 1 second. I had this plumbed into a small foam box in the fender well so you would never hear it at all when car was running. NOS activation switch was on the shifter and computer controlled. On one example car I would run two fuel solenoids on two separate relays so that if one did not open there would be almost zero chance of a lean back fire because of the other opening.Each had a led light to show power on in the car. I had an rpm window switch or computer program that would only allow Nytrous to flow from,example, 2,500-6,000 even though I had my finger on the activation switch the whole time NOS only flowed in that window of rpm. So no matter how crazy the race got or what I was thinking or nerves creeping up on me...I couldn't blow the engine by "to soon or to late" activation including tire spin and over rev's.My computer system would monitor the AFR and anything above 11.0 afr it would shut down the system. My big stages where all computer controlled as well so no accidents or blow ups/back fires.The entire system was mistake proof and gave me piece of mind in every aspect of using it. Nytrous has a bad rap but I thought that I combated every problem possible and had 15+ years of trouble free fun. Just my two cents
I am sure some one {everyone} is an expert in Nitrous so take my information for what its worth. I have raced,1/4 mile AND road raced !!! Nitrous in every car I have run and this was my basic layout in most cars.
My most powerful system,big block Chevy, was a 450 hp 3 stage hit,100,150,200 and that was a LOT of fun. After many mistakes,backfires, melted plugs, pistons and head gaskets you learn fast.
My tanks where always mounted in the trunk with an electronic shut off valve. The entire system was controlled by one main switch. Turn this on and tank is now open with system armed, bottle warmer's on and the computer would automatically turn a small purge valve on up front for 1 second. I had this plumbed into a small foam box in the fender well so you would never hear it at all when car was running. NOS activation switch was on the shifter and computer controlled. On one example car I would run two fuel solenoids on two separate relays so that if one did not open there would be almost zero chance of a lean back fire because of the other opening.Each had a led light to show power on in the car. I had an rpm window switch or computer program that would only allow Nytrous to flow from,example, 2,500-6,000 even though I had my finger on the activation switch the whole time NOS only flowed in that window of rpm. So no matter how crazy the race got or what I was thinking or nerves creeping up on me...I couldn't blow the engine by "to soon or to late" activation including tire spin and over rev's.My computer system would monitor the AFR and anything above 11.0 afr it would shut down the system. My big stages where all computer controlled as well so no accidents or blow ups/back fires.The entire system was mistake proof and gave me piece of mind in every aspect of using it. Nytrous has a bad rap but I thought that I combated every problem possible and had 15+ years of trouble free fun. Just my two cents
Last edited by SICAMG; 10-09-2016 at 06:46 PM.
07-13-2019, 04:15 PM
#59
Going to purge into the Heat Exchanger with the nitrous ring:
I installed the nozzle into the Y pipe aiming at the throttle body:
Solenoid for the nitrous:
Solenoid for the fuel and pulling the fuel off our fuel pressure gauge port:
Controller for the window and tps parameters:
Arm switches:
The meat behind it all:
I installed the nozzle into the Y pipe aiming at the throttle body:
Solenoid for the nitrous:
Solenoid for the fuel and pulling the fuel off our fuel pressure gauge port:
Controller for the window and tps parameters:
Arm switches:
The meat behind it all:
I've recently installed a nitrous kit on my E55 but I do not want to rely on the ol thumb button to spray. I know that you had a nitrous kit on your E55 a few years back and were able to use a WOT/window switch for your setup. My question is where did you tap into for your rpm signal and tps voltage?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Luis
07-13-2019, 08:29 PM
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but I desperately need some info!!!
I've recently installed a nitrous kit on my E55 but I do not want to rely on the ol thumb button to spray. I know that you had a nitrous kit on your E55 a few years back and were able to use a WOT/window switch for your setup. My question is where did you tap into for your rpm signal and tps voltage?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Luis
I've recently installed a nitrous kit on my E55 but I do not want to rely on the ol thumb button to spray. I know that you had a nitrous kit on your E55 a few years back and were able to use a WOT/window switch for your setup. My question is where did you tap into for your rpm signal and tps voltage?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Luis
Glad to help brotha, text me at 404-641-7595
craig
