06-24-2015, 01:45 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Install Throttle Body
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
90mm Throttle Body install with parts/pics
06-10-2014, 09:40 PM
#126
MBWorld Fanatic!
UPDATE: I got a new tune from Jerry this weekend. I did 20 miles on Friday night and 60 miles on my way in to work today. So far, no hiccup!!! I was driving like I was trying to trigger it, and it never happened. Hope I'm not jinxing it, but in the past, I've had it show up within 50 miles of uploading a tune. 60 miles back home later today and hopefully it will be good to go.
This is with the fixed pulley.
This is with the fixed pulley.
06-10-2014, 10:01 PM
#127
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Troutman, NC
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2006 SL65 AMG, 2014 E350, 2012 ML350 Bluetec
UPDATE: I got a new tune from Jerry this weekend. I did 20 miles on Friday night and 60 miles on my way in to work today. So far, no hiccup!!! I was driving like I was trying to trigger it, and it never happened. Hope I'm not jinxing it, but in the past, I've had it show up within 50 miles of uploading a tune. 60 miles back home later today and hopefully it will be good to go.
This is with the fixed pulley.
This is with the fixed pulley.
06-11-2014, 11:54 AM
#128
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: A to the Z (the state)
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
21 Posts
'06 E55
As per Jerry's instruction, I needed to report LTFTs to him regularly. when I got to work yesterday, they were pretty high and my WOT AFRs were still pretty rich in the low 10's. I emailed him in the morning and I had an updated tune in my inbox before I even left work. On my drive home, the first road is 30 miles of highway, plenty of ups, downs, and flats that normally would have triggered the hiccup many times. It did it fine. At the end of that road, there is an uphill merge from a stop onto the interstate. I may have aggressively attacked the on-ramp to show the Evo in front of me that he could not get away. After about ten seconds of cruising on the interstate, the damn hiccup finally happened. I had another 30 miles to go, so I pulled off the next exit and did a restart. Did the rest of the drive home, again with lots of hills and straights, with no hiccup. Before this tune, it was to the point that it would happen 3 times in 10-15 minutes. Definitely better.
I uploaded the second tune last night. Today, the LTFTs are much better and WOT AFRs are mid-10's. I'm driving like I'm trying to trigger it and so far so good.
Word
. How big of a difference did you notice coming from a stock car? Since the modding has come in stages, it is hard to gauge the entire before/after experience. As a passenger, did you notice anything negative about the torque converter?
I uploaded the second tune last night. Today, the LTFTs are much better and WOT AFRs are mid-10's. I'm driving like I'm trying to trigger it and so far so good.
Word
. How big of a difference did you notice coming from a stock car? Since the modding has come in stages, it is hard to gauge the entire before/after experience. As a passenger, did you notice anything negative about the torque converter?
06-11-2014, 09:28 PM
#132
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Troutman, NC
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2006 SL65 AMG, 2014 E350, 2012 ML350 Bluetec
[QUOTE=Word . How big of a difference did you notice coming from a stock car? Since the modding has come in stages, it is hard to gauge the entire before/after experience. As a passenger, did you notice anything negative about the torque converter?[/QUOTE]
HUGE difference from stock...yours continues to pull at higher speeds like mine does off the line. I thought mine pinned me to the seat, but yours made me feel like I wouldn't be able to sit up.
As far as the torque converter, if you wouldn't have told me about it, I don't think I would have noticed it...not from the passenger seat anyways.
...I'm working on talking the wife into the EC stage 1 kit, with the approach that the IC pump and h/e add to reliability, and the tune adds to mpg efficiency. She is starting to lean my way
. How big of a difference did you notice coming from a stock car? Since the modding has come in stages, it is hard to gauge the entire before/after experience. As a passenger, did you notice anything negative about the torque converter?[/QUOTE]HUGE difference from stock...yours continues to pull at higher speeds like mine does off the line. I thought mine pinned me to the seat, but yours made me feel like I wouldn't be able to sit up.
As far as the torque converter, if you wouldn't have told me about it, I don't think I would have noticed it...not from the passenger seat anyways.
...I'm working on talking the wife into the EC stage 1 kit, with the approach that the IC pump and h/e add to reliability, and the tune adds to mpg efficiency. She is starting to lean my way
06-12-2014, 10:56 AM
#133
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: A to the Z (the state)
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
21 Posts
'06 E55
^Good news!
That run I posted above was going uphill and it was 100 degrees. This morning it was 64 degrees and I was going downhill. Here's the CGI run I created:
This is well above 4,000 ft. elevation and it was killing me. I logged yesterday's run and with a 175mm crank pulley and an 80mm s/c pulley, I am holding 9.5-11 psi through the whole run. At sea level, I am above 16 psi.
That run I posted above was going uphill and it was 100 degrees. This morning it was 64 degrees and I was going downhill. Here's the CGI run I created:
This is well above 4,000 ft. elevation and it was killing me. I logged yesterday's run and with a 175mm crank pulley and an 80mm s/c pulley, I am holding 9.5-11 psi through the whole run. At sea level, I am above 16 psi.
06-12-2014, 11:08 AM
#134
MBWorld Fanatic!
What are you LTFT's at Denroll, if you don't mind me asking? Mine sit at around -5 to -6 and tailpipes are black as hell. Part throttle maps must be pretty rich, as I get a bit of hesitation down low at part throttle; perhaps I need to contact Jerry and toss him some cash to see if he can re-tune.
06-15-2014, 01:38 AM
#136
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: A to the Z (the state)
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
21 Posts
'06 E55
I spoke with Jerry yesterday regarding this hiccup as we just have not been able to tune it out. He says that the one thing all of the cars with the hiccup have in common is the MAP sensor. There are indeed two versions of the same part number. One has blue lettering on the label and the other one has green. The ones with blue lettering is the one in the cars with the hiccup that they have seen in their shop. I had a new one in my parts pile, and it had the green label. I checked the one on my car and sure enough it was the blue label. Extreme pain in the nuts to change this thing.
It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:
EDIT: Do NOT order the sensor on the left. It is for a different car and does not work.
It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:
EDIT: Do NOT order the sensor on the left. It is for a different car and does not work.
Last edited by Denroll; 07-01-2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Added important info
06-15-2014, 03:06 AM
#137
MBWorld Fanatic!
I spoke with Jerry yesterday regarding this hiccup as we just have not been able to tune it out. He says that the one thing all of the cars with the hiccup have in common is the MAP sensor. There are indeed two versions of the same part number. One has blue lettering on the label and the other one has green. The ones with blue lettering is the one in the cars with the hiccup that they have seen in their shop. I had a new one in my parts pile, and it had the green label. I checked the one on my car and sure enough it was the blue label. Extreme pain in the nuts to change this thing.
It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:
It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:
07-01-2014, 02:31 PM
#141
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: A to the Z (the state)
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
21 Posts
'06 E55
Bumping the thread to say that the sensor on the left in that photo is the wrong one. Found that one out the stupid/hard way. That means that I got to do this MAP sensor change not once, but twice.
Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:
The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:
The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
07-02-2014, 01:01 AM
#143
One thing always leads to another, i just did my VCG and ended up pulling everything while i was at it. Well not everything but alot of new parts and fluids. I got my fingers crossed that this new MAP will solve our hiccup DR, mine came back very randomly after i logged alott of miles trouble free. Let me know how it goes, i also have that green bosch sensor sitting here but was told they are for the newer mercedes turbo applications?? And not compatable with our m113k. Let me know results with the new one you picked up above. Fingers crossed
Last edited by RAWE55; 07-02-2014 at 01:18 AM.
07-02-2014, 01:23 AM
#144
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: A to the Z (the state)
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes
on
21 Posts
'06 E55
I do know after changing the MAP sensor, putting in a new set of plugs, and taking my time making sure everything was perfect, the car is running so much better now. So smooth and strong.
07-02-2014, 03:22 AM
#145
The best part is that you know everything was done right, paying a mech to rush something only leads to more problems down the line!
07-02-2014, 09:37 AM
#146
MBWorld Fanatic!
07-02-2014, 09:41 AM
#147
MBWorld Fanatic!
07-02-2014, 10:22 AM
#148
Senior Member
Don't wish to quash hope here, but that's the MAP sensor I have in my car and the dreaded hiccup is ever-present
Bumping the thread to say that the sensor on the left in that photo is the wrong one. Found that one out the stupid/hard way. That means that I got to do this MAP sensor change not once, but twice.
Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:
The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:
The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
07-02-2014, 11:06 AM
#149
Out Of Control!!
The dealership shows one part number for 06 E55 MAP sensor. Where are you getting this other sensor from? Also, can you explain why changing the MAP sensor would change anything? Does the ECU not see the same signal? Unless the new MAP sensor is scaled differently in which case it would be giving the ECU different signals and would think it's seeing a different boost than actual.
07-02-2014, 12:39 PM
#150
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes, no hiccup / no P0106 after BIP tune. No hiccup / no P0106 after installing ported heads.
But, I do plan on putting in a 90TB. So I was thinking ahead, IF the hiccup returns with the 90TB, then maybe a "corrective/new" MAP sensor could be a solution.
On a side note, I heard that EC tunes now resolve the hiccups/P0106.
But, I do plan on putting in a 90TB. So I was thinking ahead, IF the hiccup returns with the 90TB, then maybe a "corrective/new" MAP sensor could be a solution.
On a side note, I heard that EC tunes now resolve the hiccups/P0106.
