- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Install Throttle Body
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
90mm Throttle Body install with parts/pics
This is with the fixed pulley.
This is with the fixed pulley.
I uploaded the second tune last night. Today, the LTFTs are much better and WOT AFRs are mid-10's. I'm driving like I'm trying to trigger it and so far so good.
Word
HUGE difference from stock...yours continues to pull at higher speeds like mine does off the line. I thought mine pinned me to the seat, but yours made me feel like I wouldn't be able to sit up.
As far as the torque converter, if you wouldn't have told me about it, I don't think I would have noticed it...not from the passenger seat anyways.
...I'm working on talking the wife into the EC stage 1 kit, with the approach that the IC pump and h/e add to reliability, and the tune adds to mpg efficiency. She is starting to lean my way
That run I posted above was going uphill and it was 100 degrees. This morning it was 64 degrees and I was going downhill. Here's the CGI run I created:
This is well above 4,000 ft. elevation and it was killing me. I logged yesterday's run and with a 175mm crank pulley and an 80mm s/c pulley, I am holding 9.5-11 psi through the whole run. At sea level, I am above 16 psi.
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It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:
EDIT: Do NOT order the sensor on the left. It is for a different car and does not work.


Last edited by Denroll; Jul 1, 2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Added important info
It's on the passenger side way down underneath the throttle body. There's just no room to get your hands in there. Take the passenger side surge tank off and you will kinda have access. I was able to eventually get it with a 1/4" box wrench. Here;s what they look like:



Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:

The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
Last edited by RAWE55; Jul 2, 2014 at 01:18 AM.
Here is one of the new sensors I got from the dealer. It supersedes the part number of the old sensor posted above. Note how the ratcheting wrench is too bulky for the sensor:

The good thing is that I may have found a way to make the MAP sensor change a little easier. After I started taking the engine bay apart, I noticed that one part can be easily removed, making more room. Undo one bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube in place (the tube by the throttle body) and then you will see part of the engine with a hole that one of the vent tubes goes through. It's the very back part of the engine on the passenger side. That part is held on with two bolts that use the larger Torx bit. There's a small metal gasket when you remove it, so look for it. This will give you a little more room to work. Ideally, you will want to lift the fuel rail to give the most room and to reduce rage levels. Don't do what I did. I cross threaded the forward bolt and had to end up pulling the supercharger to repair the threads.
But, I do plan on putting in a 90TB. So I was thinking ahead, IF the hiccup returns with the 90TB, then maybe a "corrective/new" MAP sensor could be a solution.
On a side note, I heard that EC tunes now resolve the hiccups/P0106.















