Brilliant thread that is VERY motivating. Much respect to you!

 

im following your foot steps but im going to do a full motor build and sleeve the block and see if i can get some more displacement out of it!

 

Do you trust seal all? I've had lots of trouble with fuel "resistant" sealers in the past so I switched to Yamabond 4 from the motorcycle shop.

 

Might be in the plans for next year, I just wanted to get it back to running condition for now. If you build, compression is your friend.

It has held up well on the Cobra, just need to give it very ample cure time. I was a bit rushed on the E55 so it likely didn't set like I wanted it to. The way I disconnected the plastic cage, however, the pumps still retain their position in the basket so I'm not worried about it for now. I'll have to look into that Yamabond, always willing to jump ship for something better

 

I will be replacing my pump/filter assemblies next year simply as a preventative maintenance item. Now, as I have posted before, I do not use any ethanol laced gasoline. To date the pumps show no indication of excessive current draw. To my point of view, the current pump/filter assemblies will provide more than enough capacity and are designed for non-return systems. Looking at supply fuel line sizes, I believe they need to be increased for BHP exceeding 700. I suspect some 113K's are on the very edge of capacity based on the existing line size.

Any thoughts on this?

 

Due to our high base fuel pressure (65psi, I think?), I think the stock twin pump setup is very capable. The issue is that I'm set up to run E85, which requires 28% more fuel than standard 93 octane. Using your assumption of 700 bhp, I would need new pumps beyond 504 bhp won E85. Similarly, the 55-60lb injectors may be suitable for gas cars but I would need something in the 85lb range at the very least. I would have bought some '13 GT500 injectors and kept the stock pumps if I had not converted to E85.

Regarding line size, I have not bothered to look into them. My pumps and injectors should be good for at least 900 bhp on corn so if I turn up the power and experience a pressure drop, I'll know I'm at the limit of the line. Through my research thus far, I haven't seen anyone hit the limit of our stock line size on 93 octane.

 

This might be unrelated,, but a recent issue of HOTROD had a pretty thorough article on counterfeit parts...... Aeromotive was one of the companies that struggles to prevent counterfeiting of their products, so it's possible that some of the complaints about "bad batches" of pumps might actually just be people who unintentionally bought fakes....

Comp cams, Autometer and MSD were also listed in the article as companies who are routinely targeted by counterfeiters.


-G

 

So when I had everything apart, the only item in front of the engine really was the hood release cable because I had everything else removed. At some point I either stretched or damaged the cable because when I put everything back together and closed the hood, my passenger hood latch refused to open. I was stumped for awhile and everything I read stated people just took the car to the dealer and paid 350-400 between parts and labor to get the hood open and have the cable replaced. Obviously, I don't do dealerships. In 2010, a member on here (reitmeid) posted a quick instruction on how to access the latch from underneath. Big shout out to him, I would have probably gone a different route and possibly damaged something.

This is how to get the hood open if your passenger side latch stops working:
- Remove the passenger front wheel
- Remove the front portion of the wheel well
- Remove the under tray that mounts to the front bumper
- Unbolt the oil cooler assembly and push it to the side
- Looking straight up outboard of the framerail near the back of the headlight housings, theres a kidney shaped plastic cover, this houses the bottom of the latch. Obviously since it's up near the hood it's pretty far away so you'll have to use some long needle nose pliers or a similar tool to remove this
(I can't find a picture of the part online so I'll take one later and update this)
- Now you can see the bottom of the latch. Use the needle nose pliers or a long flathead screwdriver and push the latch toward the center of the car. This should trip the latch and allow you to open the hood



Voila.

 

Haven't updated in awhile...

I've got the blower off right now, in the process of relocating my water injection nozzle and outfitting sensors for the Zeitronix ZT-2 datalogging system. Previously, I had the nozzle coming in from the driver side but since I'm relocating my stock IAT sensor to the passenger surge tank, I wanted to make sure the spray was more uniform between the two banks. I'd really like to replace the straight quick release adapter with a 90 for a little more clearance to the engine valley, but as it stands this should still fit (barely). I'll also be wrapping the nylon line and fitting in a spark plug boot sleeve to protect it from heat.





Stock IAT sensor has been relocated to the passenger side surge, along with the aftermarket MAP sensor for the Zeitronix. The nipple is for vacuum reference going to the water injection in the trunk. The aftermarket IAT sensor for the Zeitronix is in the driver side surge so I can compare the two. The aftermarket IAT has FAR better resolution and the Zeitronix has a much higher refresh rate so I'll be monitoring that sensor more closely. I moved the nozzle further upstream and the stock IAT for downstream to try and ensure and even water distribution before the air hits the IAT.. but we'll see how that goes.



I can't find a lot of data on the effectiveness of thermal barriers within the engine valley, but for $50 I figured I would give it a shot. I'll finish wrapping the intercooler, and likely wrap the coolant lines forward to a certain extent.



Also threw this puppy on during the winter. The revised tune is pretty far off, which is what drove the purchase of the Zeitronix datalogging equipment.. need to get this thing back to tip top shape.



Current sight at the house

 

I did the gold wrap on mine too. Figured it wouldn't hurt. Loving your garage

 

Whats the specs on the blue GT

 

I was also looking into some sort of blanket or padding to lay in the valley around the intercooler... but I couldn't come up with much. Not enough room in the garage, I need a shop again!

99 Cobra (black), forged 4.6/built auto/built IRS/Borg Warner turbo/serious chassis mods
03 Mach1 (blue), procharger/5spd
69 MB 280S, 302/C4 swap/original paint
05 E55, obviously
07 TBSS, nearly stock daily

Everything has a v8, haha

 

Finished the gold wrap and swapped out the straight nozzle adapter for a 90° one




Here's a little trick you guys may or may not want to use. Since our blowers are so damn heavy and I find myself taking it on and off quite often, I bought some threaded rod to better control the assembly when putting it back in place. This helps to keep from damaging the intake gaskets and allows me to hover the blower with vise grips when I'm trying to hook up the injection nozzle or ensure everything is out of the way.





Cost: $21

 

Looks good man! There is stuff called fiberfrax developed by NASA, ceramic fiber insulation. It comes in blankets, paper etc. Wrap 3mm around your finger and put a blow torch to it, you'll be impressed. Google it. Might be what your looking for.

 

Is that a W109 (looks like a '69)?

 

Not sure I'll try the blow torch but I'll be looking into it! haha. The only thing I'm worried about is whether or not it requires air around it to be effective, as there's not much room in the valley

1969 280s (W108)

 

Reflect-a-gold is supposed to do the same, plus it really reflects heat.
I would be very interested in whats the best heat insulation for our medium-temps inside engine bays.
A ceramic coated thing sheet of aluminium might work good as well. There are very good products by for instance "Techline coatings".

There are so many products on the market that are made to insulate ovens from inside and stuff, but i dont really believe they are suitable for cars engines.

 

So how is the car doing? Have you dyno'd it lately? I'm curious about the pressure limits of this stock supercharger. Any idea what the intake temps are?

I apologize. I'm a fabricator and have been working on cars for quite a while. My interests have recently turned to this vehicle.

 

This thread evolved into the thread below

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...tor-build.html

I could update that one, but the car is back up and running strong

 

Thank you. GOing there now.

 

Make us some cool parts!

 

It seems there isn't much to do here. The motor is apparently built well enough to handle the limits of the stock supercharger. Simply limited by the supercharger.

Honestly, It looks like 550 whp on cooled off intake runs via E-85 is about the max this thing can go. Over boost it and you're just heating things up for less power. I'm just starting the research, and I may still be wrong, but this is what I am finding. I haven't found out the typical Boost level that would be at though.

The larger Supercharger option is Close to $10K. (Weistec?) I see diminishing returns in that prospect unless you are very very hard core. And I personally feel 500-550 whp is not bad at all for this car. Comfortable, classy and Faster than 95(?) Percent of the cars out there? Sounds like a perfect family car for me.. I already have a race car.. - In my Avatar.

I'm just here to figure out my best bang for the buck. I'm also trying to figure out the things to look for when I purchase, like SHOCKS and SBC issues. It looks like I can afford to replace those, specially since I will be doing it myself, But I would like to avoid any issues like that right off the bat.

 

95ONE- I think I remember your username from Rennlist? I had a 944 with an LS2 swap...back when it wasn't cool. Maybe it still isn't though haha.

You have a good handle and start on the E55. I think you'd really enjoy one.

 

HA! I just asked if that was you on another thread.

My life is starting to come back together after being sick for about 5 months. Doctors have NO IDEA what it was. Just glad it's over.

Your 944 is pretty damn cool.. always.

I'm really liking this car and would like to have a nice daily driver again. I'm after the Dual personality of this car. Houston doesn't have many turns, and everyone here is into power only. This car is a nice sleeper. I'm weighing heavily on buying one, and pretty sure I am. That could change at a moments notice... But I think this is the next one. When I start creeping around on forums, I've usually already made the decision.

 

Dang, glad to hear you are over it! That is scary stuff when they don't know and it lasts that long!

I think based upon your situation, and lack of twisty roads, you would enjoy the E55. It really does do the dual personality well. The turning is....good enough. It's very easy to work on and I recommend getting a STAR diagnostic through Shardul. Opens up all kinds of doors.

I personally like the Airmatic after living with coilovers on my DD for 10 years. Arnott is excellent to work with and offers a lifetime warranty. A lot of the cars you'll test drive will have a dead I/C pump. As long as you know that going in!