Best advice I have for you is to proceed with caution after completing your firsthand due diligence.
Get real business friendly with your tuner (OE?), data log, and monitor your AFR via wideband whenever beating on it.
Then you’ll be your own expert on the subject by forestalling conjecture and interweb keyboard jockeys.

Having enough salary/fun money stashed away for meltdowns is advisable before turning up the wick, too.
Your warranty notwithstanding, my MBW buddy ScottW might hunt you down for fraud j/k.

M113K photo credits withheld owing to privacy concerns. He is a member here though.

 

What fuel/load condition(s) brought this?

 

 

Those age old bugaboos of too lean and pre-ignition and/or detonation conspired once again to take down yet another previously healthy powerplant.

btdt so my photo albums are fife with the inevitable destructive hardware testing results of erring on the sides of too lean, too advanced, and too much boost. Learned right quick that this isn’t an inexpensive hobby or one ideally suited for dilettantes after blowing up rides during a misspent youth. Persevered and eventually found slightly more conservative paths toward acceptable component life and durability…while still getting my kicks.

Our cast hypereutectic pistons stand little chance of a long and healthy life when tuning and operating conditions exceed their relatively fragile mechanical integrity. Full disclosure requires pleading guilty to breaking forged pistons though, too. Otherwise our AMG engines have more often than not proven hell bent for strong.

Happy motoring. :)

 

Boy, that sure is one unlucky S.O.B.

Oh, wait... that was my engine last year.

That's what a clogged injector can do for ya. Oh, and it happened THE DAY AFTER my warranty expired. That was cylinder 3. Looped fuel rail and larger injectors were installed maybe 2000 miles before this. Wideband system was planned for upcoming install, but was not on yet.

It sucked and was expensive. Buy your Zeitronix suite early.

 

Damnit! MBW respects privacy and I tried to protect your anonymity. Seriously.

Kindly forgive the thread jack. As you were…

 

Well, a clogged injector after 2000 miles is a bit unusual, wouldn't you say? At that point, anything could blow the engine. I know you can't replace the fuel filter because apparently our fuel tank and filter are one integrated unit.

I'm not exactly sure *why*, but whatever.

So basically, a fuel rail is still a good idea despite having mid-tube headers which would relieve some boost if I stack a 175. Suppose I'll talk w/BenzWorks about it and see what they think.

 

So what type of boost would a 168 and an 83 have Kleemann headers and cams 82mm throttle body from what I'm reading headers will lower the boost,cams too I guess ?

 

Any reason why the boost calc from 180/83 jumps up .8psi of boost from 195/90 seems like a big difference? I'd also add as a warning as you approach the yellow zones pinning the crank pulley is a must I spun/broke a keyway and blower snout at 175/77 combo

 

I have the same question... how can a injector get clogged after 2000 miles?
The stock ones never get clogged (if you let the engine run periodically). Also when a injector gets "clogged" you would have noticed it that one cylinder is failing by unevean running of the engine, right?

Please tell us more what happened exactly and where did you got your injectors from?

 

I don't know how it happened. We didn't know the cause until the new block went in. The car fired up, but did not run right. Cleaning out the injectors (after a lot of troubleshooting) had it purring like a cat.
The injectors came from a shop that had a really good reputation here until they stole a bunch of money from one of our members.

 

I suspect that your engine failed like many others here because of the dreaded hiccup except at the time no one really knew what it was and like you many have said that they were just cruising and just upped the gas a little and it popped or something along those lines. Like you said you weren't logging so it's hard to say 100%

 

im looking for a bigger crank pulley.... which one are problematics ? the one im looking at is a 170mm renntech...is it good ?

thank you

 

Yes you can't go wrong with a renntech part, however the install has to be flawless on a crank pulley

 

great !!! thank' s


so evosports, asp.vrp .... i should walk away i guest

 

Asp is very good as well

L'installation é tres tres important!

 

caliss oui !!! lol !!!

new oem bolt and torque properly with blue lock tite ...
torque to 148ft.lbs.+90deg.),

 

Or buy an arp bolt tabarnac!

 

So did the issues with the FSP ever get resolved ??

 

IMO yes the FSP tune is resolved the problem is the "hiccup" problem isn't and on a FSP car the hiccup is much more pronounced to the point of effecting drivability. So if you have a hiccup less car do it. If you're already fighting the hiccup like most of us the FSP is only going to make it worse. But I have to say the FSP transforms the feel of our cars and turns it into a violent torque on demand throttle sensitive "hot rod" type feeling that I love. Is it worth it? IMO yes. Night and day feeling from the big CP clutched cars that still have a laggy feeling.

 

I don't understand why if you have the hiccup with the FSP why not why not try an 80mm TB or a stock 74 TB and see if that resolves the problem.
Then work you way back up or have tuner see what changed in logs.
It seem people here don't like to take small steps.
They like large leaps which makes it hard to find issues.

 

You got a point however it appears that bip helped jcw with his hiccup, so it was a SW issue but trying a smaller to has also helped some

 

Funny if you remember right i had the same issue.
I don't anymore.

 

Nice bro! What did you do, did you step down on the tb?

 

You already posted the answer.