AMG013

I finally got a chance to dyno my car after a long and expensive mod journey and not happy at all. Foolishly I didn't do a before mod run.

Any advice input would be much appreciated. I'm thinking next step should definitely be a hands on/live tune and further cooling.



On a Dynapack chassis dyno i got: 437hp and 506tq (and thats running OZ 98 octane pump gas).

It was 20 degrees (68 degrees fahrenheit) here in Melb/Australia.

My Mods:
Quafie LSD
Bosch auxiliary water pump
PLM heat exchanger
c63 Mufflers and X resonator
100 CEL primary cats
Secondary CATs Delete
Kleemann Headers and downpipes
Eurocharged/Shardul SC Pulley
ASP 175mm Crank Pulley
ASP/Shardul Billet pulley kit (4)
Eurocharged/Shardul Belt wrap kit
TTM Looped Fuel rail and 550cc Injectors
7 Rating spark plugs
Eurocharged ECU Tune (EuroFlash)
K&N Filters


Any thoughts?

E55Greasemonkey

Take it to the track...dyno numbers are just part of the picture.

Benz-a-lini

I wouldnt worry too much about the dyno result..Especially if you didnt do a before and after and therefore dont have anything to compare it to..

Want until your local track opens and do a 1/4 mile run, because ultimately thats a better indication of how much power the car is making.


some dynos are also under rated or "heartbreakers" so why not go to another shop that has a dyno and see what kind of numbers it makes?

RedBullJnky

Get a TB and dyno tune. Then go to the track.

chiromikey

Out of all your list of parts, your only true power adders are pulleys and headers so I wouldn't be disappointed by your dyno numbers. For a long time my car never got out if the 400's but at the track it smoked every 55 around...so I agree with all of the sentiments above.

RNS-11Z

We always dyno less then us cars. Youl easyly dip into the 11s with those mods

60nomad

What everyone else said is right on the money...a dyno is just that...a dyno. Track will tell you everything you need to know. How does the car feel? Now, that's important!

OZZYAMG

Hi


Whose dyno did you use in Melbourne?


On another note who supplied and fitted the Quaife LSD and where did you get the C63 mufflers from?


Regards,


OZZYAMG

AMG013

Thanks all.

Guess I was benchmarking on the EC stage 3 package that quotes 600HP+...

Also, what gear do you lot generally do dyno runs on? Mine were all in 3rd I think but I read 1:1 is closer in 4th somewhere?

I think I'll go TB, custom tune and then Dyno again. Sadly the closest legal drags are about 2 hours from me but I'll get to that too.

The car "feels" amazeballs. By far the biggest bang the butt dyno felt was the LSD and Kleemann headers. In fact if I could start over, I'd just do those two and spend the rest of my cash on cooling. ahh well, still all in good fun!

Ozzy, Dyno'd at chequered flag in keysborough. I got the LSD installed by Sharp Performance in south melb but they outsourced to a specialist in NSW by shipping the entire Diff. C63 pipe bits were from the wreckers, seem to be plenty of totalled C63s about!

60nomad

That's what matters most is how it feels. What I always did was run someone before the mods and after and I get an exact answer...example: ran my buddy stock and he won by 5-7 lengths...1st round of mods was almost even he edged me out by a 1/2 car maybe...gained let's say 6 lengths...next round...I turned the tables and won by about the same as he beat me in the beginning...results? I gained approx. 12 lengths! That's how I gauge it!

Tech-Tune

I have your exact modifications (plus 82mm TB, minus the quaife) and ended up with 497rwhp/565rwtq on a dynojet. After the dyno tuning session with Jerry, it went up to 517/595 on a hot pull.
I would suggest a dyno tune and a larger TB like others have already suggested.

chawkins2001

Skip the 82mm and jump to a 90mm tb from bbk. Second, your pulley configuration is pretty agressive, probably around 190mm cp equivalent. With that been said, you don't have adequate cooling to really let the pulley combo shine. Have you split your cooling yet, and the "killer chiller" and meth kit would do wonders on your setup brotha.

60nomad

I have heard that this is the combo (90mm TB or even 100mm TB) that really jumps the HP up on the AMG's and even heard that using a 100mm TB is incredible too. I do not know what this 100mm TB comes from or even how to get it but I am working on it for a friend of mine. Does anyone know who has used this 100mm and where you can get one? What's involved in installing one as I think it comes from another vehicle.

Also, I understand that the 175mm lower pulley spins the SC at optimal RPM's and does not overspin it like many people do and wonder why their track times suffer a bit. Just what I have gathered and learned...not sure how correct I am in this case but looking for feedback on that for me and obviously the OP as well.

Worth the wait

You have lots of boost....so lots of heat..so sitting on a dyno looking for numbers could be your problem.
Inject some water/meth and those numbers will soar.

But in the end they are just numbers. You already said the car is quick....so go feast on kills...lol

99lightning

unless you have meth or killer chiller 178mm pulley tested on my buddies e55 same split as mine. 68deg rise in temp on the dyno starting off at aircharge 63deg. my stock pulley car 26deg rise in temp starting off aircharge 64 deg. Know your car know your rise in temps, then you can cool it accordingly.

AMG013

Thanks again guys, comforting to see that you all have the same advice so will definitely go TB and cooling.

TECH-TUNE: your numbers are basically what i was expecting to see, very nice.

CHAWKINS: I don't see any MB listing on BBK site, or do i need to modify one of their other applications? All i've done for cooling is bosch aux pump and upgraded primary H/E (lame, I know! but melbourne is pretty bloody cold 9 months of the year).

What is the general verdict on the FTP IC Tank (engine bay version)? I can see they are also developing a 90mm TB for us...

Mantooth

You'll want to dyno in 4th. Roll on the throttle but don't push the pedal all the way down or you will hit the kick down button and it will downshift into third.

AMG013

if you select 4th in manual mode, wouldn't it stay in 4th?

since the dyno runs I now have a new and frightening issue, basically the runs were done in 3rd (about 6 hard ones) and now in 3rd from 2000-3000 rpm, every time, it feels like the the car drops into neutral. Really hoping its just the sc clutch or a belt slip and not the transmission.... Anyway, don't reply to this matter here, as said i'll start a new thread to keep things clean.

Thanks.

Crissus

There is one thing your missing, thats a TCU tune.
You should produce very high amounts of torque with that setup actually, but the TCU is limited to 750NM (Europe) IIRC. Stock is already 700NM at the crank...

HP is a calcualted value based of Torque, so in theory if your engines torque is throttled by the TCU, you wont see high HP numbers.

Correct my please if i'm wrong.

EDIT: Also, have you measured your IATs? Maybe thats a correlation to the other problem you describing in a different thread.

Mantooth

I thought the same but even in manual mode the car will kick down from 4th into 3rd with enough throttle. Try rolling into it in 4th and don't put the throttle passed the kick down threshold. You'll see what I mean when you get the car back on the dyno.

AMG013

UPDATE:

I sent Jerry at EC the AFR and Power readouts and my fuel rail+injectors did not get acknowledged on the first tune, just received an updated tune file, will upload and re dyno and revert back. As well as TB and split cooling and killer chiller on the next round.

Just need to figure this 3rd gear slipping issue out first.....