55K's - Has Anyone Replaced Oil Pump Chain Tensioner?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
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From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
55K's - Has Anyone Replaced Oil Pump Chain Tensioner?
Hi Guys
Fairly new on this forum as usually on MBClub UK, but do log in often to see what's happening here.
I have been reading through Sir-Boost-a-lot's Engine build thread with great interest, he's done a fantastic job of recording everything and the write up.
One thing that was very interesting to me were his pics showing the oil pump chain wearing grooves in the casing and his description of the noise. I love my car but ever since I've had it (3.5 years) it has made a bit of a racket and to a certain extent spoils the experience for me!! It makes a tappet/lifter sort of noise, I have even had lifters replaced by my MB dealer (they didn't know what the noise was), but the noise continues and I think this may finally be the culprit. I have heard similar engine noises on you-tube so I'm not alone. I notice the noise most when I listen from under the wheel arches.
Obviously removing the engine is a bit over the top so has anyone done this with the engine in the car and know what sort of labour is involved?
Any Info much appreciated.
Thanks
Links to posts in Sir-Boost-a-lot's thread. I hope he won't mind!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/5643945-post3.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5808480-post154.html
Fairly new on this forum as usually on MBClub UK, but do log in often to see what's happening here.
I have been reading through Sir-Boost-a-lot's Engine build thread with great interest, he's done a fantastic job of recording everything and the write up.
One thing that was very interesting to me were his pics showing the oil pump chain wearing grooves in the casing and his description of the noise. I love my car but ever since I've had it (3.5 years) it has made a bit of a racket and to a certain extent spoils the experience for me!! It makes a tappet/lifter sort of noise, I have even had lifters replaced by my MB dealer (they didn't know what the noise was), but the noise continues and I think this may finally be the culprit. I have heard similar engine noises on you-tube so I'm not alone. I notice the noise most when I listen from under the wheel arches.
Obviously removing the engine is a bit over the top so has anyone done this with the engine in the car and know what sort of labour is involved?
Any Info much appreciated.
Thanks
Links to posts in Sir-Boost-a-lot's thread. I hope he won't mind!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/5643945-post3.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5808480-post154.html
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Studio City , CA
05 E55
Ive rebuilt a these engines plenty of times working at my shop and i can tell you now its damn near impossible to do without pulling the motor.
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,814
Likes: 152
From: 'Merica
'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
I think I have this problem too... I get the clickity-clack only in the 1500-1800 RPM range though... Will this cause serious issues if left unattended for too long? Car is an '04 ~72k by the way.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Ive rebuilt a these engines plenty of times working at my shop and i can tell you now its damn near impossible to do without pulling the motor.
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
To be honest I have spoken with a specialist indie over here in England and he said it would be a lot of work. He doesn't think my engine is particularly noisy anyway. His advice was to stop worrying about it and stop my dithering and fit headers then I wouldn't hear it
I was just hoping there may be a way simpler way round it. It seems such a stupid thing that the spring simply isn't strong enough.
Cheers Simon
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
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From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Snap - mine is a late 04 (05 MY), with 72K miles. That said I have had this issue since I bought it with 38K miles. Mine is noticeable at idle though to app 1700 rpm.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 16
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From: Studio City , CA
05 E55
Honestly my buddys e55 is an 04 and ive rebuilt his engine once at 230,000 miles the cylinder wall came apart. stock engine, just high mileage, and his car had the problem from about 40k miles. it lasted that long and he drove the crap out of it. I wouldnt worry about it too much, unless it gets really loud and your oil consumption goes up do to insufficient oil pressure.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Right guys - Eurocharged in London have ordered these bits for me and my car is booked in in 2 weeks time to have this sorted along with some other works (motor / tranny mounts and new sway bar).
It's a lot of work, I just hope it cures it!
It's a lot of work, I just hope it cures it!
Last edited by simon1966; Jan 29, 2014 at 05:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Mine sounds more noticeable when listening from under my passenger side wheel arch (your drivers side), it sounds worse when near parked cars or narrow cobbled streets etc as the sound gets amplified!
I tried to post a vid but it wont upload
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 311
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2004.7 C180 Kompressor, BMW X5, Chevrolet Camaro LT, Mercedes S, Cesna 152.
Hi Guys
Fairly new on this forum as usually on MBClub UK, but do log in often to see what's happening here.
I have been reading through Sir-Boost-a-lot's Engine build thread with great interest, he's done a fantastic job of recording everything and the write up.
One thing that was very interesting to me were his pics showing the oil pump chain wearing grooves in the casing and his description of the noise. I love my car but ever since I've had it (3.5 years) it has made a bit of a racket and to a certain extent spoils the experience for me!! It makes a tappet/lifter sort of noise, I have even had lifters replaced by my MB dealer (they didn't know what the noise was), but the noise continues and I think this may finally be the culprit. I have heard similar engine noises on you-tube so I'm not alone. I notice the noise most when I listen from under the wheel arches.
Obviously removing the engine is a bit over the top so has anyone done this with the engine in the car and know what sort of labour is involved?
Any Info much appreciated.
Thanks
Links to posts in Sir-Boost-a-lot's thread. I hope he won't mind!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/5643945-post3.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5808480-post154.html
Fairly new on this forum as usually on MBClub UK, but do log in often to see what's happening here.
I have been reading through Sir-Boost-a-lot's Engine build thread with great interest, he's done a fantastic job of recording everything and the write up.
One thing that was very interesting to me were his pics showing the oil pump chain wearing grooves in the casing and his description of the noise. I love my car but ever since I've had it (3.5 years) it has made a bit of a racket and to a certain extent spoils the experience for me!! It makes a tappet/lifter sort of noise, I have even had lifters replaced by my MB dealer (they didn't know what the noise was), but the noise continues and I think this may finally be the culprit. I have heard similar engine noises on you-tube so I'm not alone. I notice the noise most when I listen from under the wheel arches.
Obviously removing the engine is a bit over the top so has anyone done this with the engine in the car and know what sort of labour is involved?
Any Info much appreciated.
Thanks
Links to posts in Sir-Boost-a-lot's thread. I hope he won't mind!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/5643945-post3.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5808480-post154.html
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
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From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
All services at MB main dealers. Maybe the varied oils used are some of the issue
I have no idea what filters have been used.
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From: Orlando
1967 Pro Touring turbo LSX Camaro
The oil type used won't have the slightest effect on the chain tensioner.
I just helped a buddy do his over the past week and a half. He wanted to do a converter and engine mounts anyways, so we pulled the engine and cleared up the slapping chain as well. It's smooth and quiet now!
I just helped a buddy do his over the past week and a half. He wanted to do a converter and engine mounts anyways, so we pulled the engine and cleared up the slapping chain as well. It's smooth and quiet now!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Surrey - England
E55 AMG WAGON 2004
The oil type used won't have the slightest effect on the chain tensioner.
I just helped a buddy do his over the past week and a half. He wanted to do a converter and engine mounts anyways, so we pulled the engine and cleared up the slapping chain as well. It's smooth and quiet now!
I just helped a buddy do his over the past week and a half. He wanted to do a converter and engine mounts anyways, so we pulled the engine and cleared up the slapping chain as well. It's smooth and quiet now!
You always take such great pictures.
To be honest I would probably have left it as is, but I'm getting my motor mounts and sway bar anyway so helps cut down on the labour a bit.
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From: Texas
2003 CL55
You can take the front cover off in the car but you may have to pull the radiator out to give enough room to operate.
The front cover is one of the more pain in the A$$ parts to take on and off on the engine (IMO), as it has a ton of silicone on it, special way to apply silicone so you dont block oil holes, have to work fast before silicone dry`s, and a ton of different size bolts. If you do take it off, would be good to change the front seal too.
These engines make a lot of noise and that noise can be transmitted around, so you may want to really investigate before pulling an engine to change an internal tensioner. Or at least put a big mod list together, like ported heads, 3000 stall and other bolt on mods that you can do at the same time.
The front cover is one of the more pain in the A$$ parts to take on and off on the engine (IMO), as it has a ton of silicone on it, special way to apply silicone so you dont block oil holes, have to work fast before silicone dry`s, and a ton of different size bolts. If you do take it off, would be good to change the front seal too.
These engines make a lot of noise and that noise can be transmitted around, so you may want to really investigate before pulling an engine to change an internal tensioner. Or at least put a big mod list together, like ported heads, 3000 stall and other bolt on mods that you can do at the same time.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
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CLS500 AMG package 2006, CL600 2002, SLK230 kompressor 2003 sold, E500 2004 sold, BMW 335xi M sport
Ive rebuilt a these engines plenty of times working at my shop and i can tell you now its damn near impossible to do without pulling the motor.
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.
i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!
