simon1966

Hi Guys

Fairly new on this forum as usually on MBClub UK, but do log in often to see what's happening here.

I have been reading through Sir-Boost-a-lot's Engine build thread with great interest, he's done a fantastic job of recording everything and the write up.

One thing that was very interesting to me were his pics showing the oil pump chain wearing grooves in the casing and his description of the noise. I love my car but ever since I've had it (3.5 years) it has made a bit of a racket and to a certain extent spoils the experience for me!! It makes a tappet/lifter sort of noise, I have even had lifters replaced by my MB dealer (they didn't know what the noise was), but the noise continues and I think this may finally be the culprit. I have heard similar engine noises on you-tube so I'm not alone. I notice the noise most when I listen from under the wheel arches.

Obviously removing the engine is a bit over the top so has anyone done this with the engine in the car and know what sort of labour is involved?

Any Info much appreciated.

Thanks

Links to posts in Sir-Boost-a-lot's thread. I hope he won't mind!!

https://mbworld.org/forums/5643945-post3.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/5808480-post154.html

d7ahouse

Ive rebuilt a these engines plenty of times working at my shop and i can tell you now its damn near impossible to do without pulling the motor.
1. the front cover needs to come out to actually remove the tensioner.
2. the main oil pan needs to be removed to loosen the oil pump to actually remove the chain, because even with the tensioner released the chain is not big enough to come out without slight loosening of oil pump. atleast on our cars.
3. Finally to remove the main pan youhave to drop, or least significantly lower the sub-frame which is alot of work, especially if you dont have a lift.

i'd say spend the time, pull the motor that way you can re-seal everything properly, as well as fix any other likely leaks, like a rear main or front crank seal.
Hope that was helpfull! CHEERS!!

G_Money

I think I have this problem too... I get the clickity-clack only in the 1500-1800 RPM range though... Will this cause serious issues if left unattended for too long? Car is an '04 ~72k by the way.

simon1966

Thanks for the info, sounds a major job then.

To be honest I have spoken with a specialist indie over here in England and he said it would be a lot of work. He doesn't think my engine is particularly noisy anyway. His advice was to stop worrying about it and stop my dithering and fit headers then I wouldn't hear it

I was just hoping there may be a way simpler way round it. It seems such a stupid thing that the spring simply isn't strong enough.

Cheers Simon

simon1966

Snap - mine is a late 04 (05 MY), with 72K miles. That said I have had this issue since I bought it with 38K miles. Mine is noticeable at idle though to app 1700 rpm.

d7ahouse

Honestly my buddys e55 is an 04 and ive rebuilt his engine once at 230,000 miles the cylinder wall came apart. stock engine, just high mileage, and his car had the problem from about 40k miles. it lasted that long and he drove the crap out of it. I wouldnt worry about it too much, unless it gets really loud and your oil consumption goes up do to insufficient oil pressure.

StarvingArtist

Do you have to remove the crank pulley to get the front cover off?

d7ahouse

Yah most there's no way of removing it without removing the crank pulley.

simon1966

I guess at least it gives the excuse to fit a larger pulley

simon1966

Right guys - Eurocharged in London have ordered these bits for me and my car is booked in in 2 weeks time to have this sorted along with some other works (motor / tranny mounts and new sway bar).

It's a lot of work, I just hope it cures it!

Bigtickets

Keep us posted as to the results!!

EREBUS

We found out mine was coming apart at 55,000 miles when I had the engine rebuilt.

simon1966

Did the clackety-clack sound disappear after these parts were replaced?

Mine sounds more noticeable when listening from under my passenger side wheel arch (your drivers side), it sounds worse when near parked cars or narrow cobbled streets etc as the sound gets amplified!

I tried to post a vid but it wont upload

mercedes4ever

Curious; how often do you change oil / filter & what oil are you using?

simon1966

During my ownership it has only had Mobil One (4 oil changes), changed at least once a year at max app 9K miles. It's due a service now and will be done at same time as these works so Mobil One will go in again. Prior to that it was serviced regularly but I can see that different oils have been used. First service Castrol Magnatec 5-40, Second service Castrol SLX 0-30, Third service Mobil One 0-40, Fourth service Halvoline 5-30.

All services at MB main dealers. Maybe the varied oils used are some of the issue I have no idea what filters have been used.

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

The oil type used won't have the slightest effect on the chain tensioner.
I just helped a buddy do his over the past week and a half. He wanted to do a converter and engine mounts anyways, so we pulled the engine and cleared up the slapping chain as well. It's smooth and quiet now!

simon1966

Thanks Chris - just what I wanted to hear!

You always take such great pictures.

To be honest I would probably have left it as is, but I'm getting my motor mounts and sway bar anyway so helps cut down on the labour a bit.

Exotic-metal55

You can take the front cover off in the car but you may have to pull the radiator out to give enough room to operate.

The front cover is one of the more pain in the A$$ parts to take on and off on the engine (IMO), as it has a ton of silicone on it, special way to apply silicone so you dont block oil holes, have to work fast before silicone dry`s, and a ton of different size bolts. If you do take it off, would be good to change the front seal too.

These engines make a lot of noise and that noise can be transmitted around, so you may want to really investigate before pulling an engine to change an internal tensioner. Or at least put a big mod list together, like ported heads, 3000 stall and other bolt on mods that you can do at the same time.

Jurgeenh

Well but if you want to just replace the tensioner and the spring you only need to remove the front cover right? The chain its too short i dont think that the chain will be too streched