turbo97se

I have been on a headlight DIY frenzy recently … here is another DIY.

I wasn’t sure if this was going to work so I didn’t document disassembly. Once I got it apart I figured I would document assembly. Disassembly is just reverse of assembly.

I had two headlamps:
1.Facelift Halogen only - I had used this to retrofit my old previous lamps with facelift reflectors. I messed up on the left side. Paid $80. Housing had broken tabs but was intact. When removing the lens cover the black goopy stuff got on the reflector - no way to get it off. I recommend after you bake the light and start separation, to use a screw driver to break the stringy “cheese pizza“ black goop so it does not touch your reflector on the top side. Actually might want to start on the bottom side and pull away that way.

2.Facelift Xenon headlight with Active curve - the housing was shattered.

Here is a comparison of Halogen vs Active Xenon



Assembly steps below:

1.Punch out holes for Xenon connectors on the back and also for the ballast at the bottom of the headlight of the halogen housing - they were filled with plastic. I used a large flathead screw driver to punch them out.


2.Insert connector ballast connector into plastic housing. Add hotglue for extra strength


3.Lay wiring into the headlight and route the connectors. plug the connectors into the plastic housing. They are keyed on one side so you are not able to plug them in the wrong way. Again at hotmelt for additional strength. Notice the one way tabs that lock the connectors in place. They need to be pushed down for removal.




4.Insert turn signal ring. There are three tabs that lock it in place


Close up of locking tabs:
http://tinypic.com/r/2eme6ih/5

5.Slide the headlight level adjuster into the slot


6.Slide the main beam housing with active curve unit into place.


7.Push the main beam unit onto the locking tabs (white) - should click into place.


8.Install tilt connecting bar and four screws for bracket holding it in place


9.Re-insert the plug that has gear on it for tilt adjustment. (This was the most difficult part to remove) You need to wedge screwdriver on inside of the housing between the bar and this plug and pop it out. Make sure you cover the top with your hand or it will fly out. Mine flew 10 feet into the air!


10.Install the Highbeam and Parking lamp reflector. It push locks into place on three plastic arms. I decided to use the original parking lamp (non-LED based holder). I can then retrofit with the aftermarket LED of my choice on both sides to match.



11.Insert Turn signal reflector. Be careful here. There are three prongs that sit into the holder area. Make sure you insert those securely and then insert the bulb and holder to make sure it locks in place. I forgot to take a picture of this part ... but it was slightly awkward.


12.Replace the tilt connecting bar on the back side of the headlamp. There are 3 torx screws holding it in place


13.Replace main beam reflector - be extremely careful not to touch the chrome parts - if you need to touch, touch the bottom side, you can’t see it once installed.


14.Put lens back on housing and bake for 15 minutes at 200 degrees F. Push the lens further on to the housing and hold. Add some black silicone sealer to finish sealing the housing.

Here is a link of how to connect the Facelift headlight electrically to pre-facelift cars
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...lots-pics.html

berti_00

you my friend have some ballzzz to open them up like that haha props man

MAN55LE

RESPECT

3BNick

Well done. If you haven't sealed them up yet (just based off not seeing the lenses on your retrofitted housings) I would suggest dumping those stock Fresnel projector lenses for clear ones. The output will be much improved. I think the retrofit source sells the ZKW-R lenses for $40.

GunMoto

Nice writeup!! +1

turbo97se

Cheers guys … It's the first time I have stripped a headlight all the way down. hopefully it will be useful to someone.

Very astute! The only reason I have not put the lens back on yet is the spare I have is somewhat fogged. I am going to try to clean it up (wet sand and polish). Or swap the ones currently on my car out. The ones on my car are in decent condition from my last swap.

As far as the ZKW-R lenses - I have taken a look at those .. the ones on 07-09 stock Xenons do not look like they are Fresnel lenses. They do not have the rings … or at least not as noticeable if they are there. The cut off for the ZKW-R are definitely better than stock 04-06, but the light output doesn't appear to be that much better. I would be more interested in 55W solution for higher light output … any suggestions on that?

stockC43

First of all nice work

I started reading this a while ago and it sounded interisting but I don't have the ***** to do it to my ballest but maybe you do?

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...utput-Pictures

turbo97se

Good link. I have researched it a little. Here is our ballast board (03-06). I see no current sensing resistors on it. It appears to be single sided board. Every component that may possibly look like a resistor is actually a capacitor. I have identified the H-Bridge MOSFETs as being ST D5NM50s and have ohmed out to determine how they are arranged. The chip is an AMIS (OnSemi) 735 386-02 but cannot pull data sheet for it. My electronics is really rusty so could do with some help here. If you have further insight, let me know. I am willing and able to do it … time is short though .. I am going to get super busy right after the holidays.

stockC43

that's beyond my electronics knowledge as well. I'm surprised to see that it is that different from another hella ballest. Maybe they would have a better idea over at hidplanet. I would be interested in a how-to to " supercharge" our hid's.

NewShockerGuy

OLD thread but I wanted to ask did you get the bi-xenon to work when you flash the highs... IE: Did the shutter turn( since it's round).


I am doing the same thing and can NOT get the low beam shutter to activate. Normally the shutter is 2 wires, but on the active curve it's 4....


Pictures below of me taking apart the stock bi-xenon.... if I can't get this to work I am going to retro fit evox-r projectors in the stock halogen housings since they should mate right up with the stock e55 projector mounting points, but I won't know until tomorrow when I bake the stock headlight.


Thanks,
-Nigel

AMG_55_cruiser

Apologize if this is off base...but been trying to determine if you can use the non-facelift cut lenses on the bi-xenon facelift housing? I really like the look better but not at extent of poor lighting.

albania

very good work !!!

I have a problem with one headlight mount bracket, it is broken
with what kind of plastic rod I can solder it
I have tried HDPE but unsuccesful
Also a devcon (glue with 2 components) but also unsuccessful

any idea?
thanks