Audio Gateway removal and replace....
11-27-2016, 12:12 AM
#76
Hello Grreen 1212. Hello..! so i took the car to MB, they spent 2 hrs and this is the result "81178 Connected das and battery charger and have code 9051, 9050 for consumer shutoff, checked tips and was told to replace battery module, tested the battery to make sure its not the battery but battery was good, needs battery module, cost to replace $1,275.50" so what do you think green, i believe these people don't know what they are doing, before they staring charging the battery i told them the battery is good but if you put back the fused 6 and 28 the drain starts, the radio is not working, this has nothing to do with the battery module, they said no, AGW is good????? the other star said the AGW faulty, which one to believe, i replaced 2 AGW's with same problem. thanks in advance green.
11-27-2016, 11:48 AM
#77
MBWorld Fanatic!
*Edit* Never mind ... looks like you already went through some of the steps I mentioned:
Deleted trouble shooting steps here ... I had said to disconnect each part physically and not just the fuses to see if the drain continues if the only additional thing I can add.
If you still cannot figure it out, I would consider one of those Android head units for the W211. Get rid of the old Comand and AGW all together. The Android HUs are actually pretty decent these days and not terribly expensive.
I doubt it is BCM, but if it is $1275.50, that is way too much! An Electrical connector, two nuts and a bolt in the trunk is all it takes to replace it. The part can be bought on Ebay for $100 to $200 used and I have seen them for $500 new.
Deleted trouble shooting steps here ... I had said to disconnect each part physically and not just the fuses to see if the drain continues if the only additional thing I can add.
If you still cannot figure it out, I would consider one of those Android head units for the W211. Get rid of the old Comand and AGW all together. The Android HUs are actually pretty decent these days and not terribly expensive.
I doubt it is BCM, but if it is $1275.50, that is way too much! An Electrical connector, two nuts and a bolt in the trunk is all it takes to replace it. The part can be bought on Ebay for $100 to $200 used and I have seen them for $500 new.
Hello Grreen 1212. Hello..! so i took the car to MB, they spent 2 hrs and this is the result "81178 Connected das and battery charger and have code 9051, 9050 for consumer shutoff, checked tips and was told to replace battery module, tested the battery to make sure its not the battery but battery was good, needs battery module, cost to replace $1,275.50" so what do you think green, i believe these people don't know what they are doing, before they staring charging the battery i told them the battery is good but if you put back the fused 6 and 28 the drain starts, the radio is not working, this has nothing to do with the battery module, they said no, AGW is good????? the other star said the AGW faulty, which one to believe, i replaced 2 AGW's with same problem. thanks in advance green.
Last edited by turbo97se; 11-27-2016 at 12:02 PM.
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mustafa226 (11-29-2016)
11-28-2016, 11:12 AM
#78
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2004 MERC E55
ok....
man its a headache I know.... the consumer shutoff codes and the bcm "needing to be replaced" -- those were/are stored due to somewhere down the line, your battery wasn't good and the consumer shutoff got stored and whenever the battery is not up to 12.5 volts and greater, the bcm will have a fault too. so the battery being good, you can ignore the bcm code, rarely will the bcm go "faulty" but 100% will give the error code when the battery dips below 12.5 volts. so lets forget about the bcm and the consumer shutoffs, those are not whats draining the battery when plug fuse 6 and 28 back in. if no drain on battery without fuse 6,28 in, and then there is a drain when you replace these fuses, then we are right back to AGW. unlikely as it sounds, knowing you have replaced the AGW 2x, sorry to go out on a limb here and say, something is still faulty with the AGW... I know, sounds crazy!!
questions: did you mention to the dealership that the battery drains when you install fuse 6 and 28? one star said agw faulty, did the dealership mention installing a "new" agw to see if everything works again?? you have placed much time into this and hate to keep you going in circles but ......
be upfront with dealership and let them know you have a battery drain but when you remove fuse 6,28,-- no battery drain. you suspect its the agw, any way they can install a "new" agw to check and see if the radio plays and/or the battery drain stops?? ask how much in labor fees this will run. you could actually have the agw "out" its hole and right there for them to make the switch and see. should save a bundle!!! now if the drain continues with the "new" agw, then its the headunit. only way to eliminate the agw is to make sure you got a no questions asked operating agw!!! sorry man, its a pain I know!!!! I, too, believe its the agw, if its a good agw, then the connections, wiring, etc etc... somethings not right with the agw.....
questions: did you mention to the dealership that the battery drains when you install fuse 6 and 28? one star said agw faulty, did the dealership mention installing a "new" agw to see if everything works again?? you have placed much time into this and hate to keep you going in circles but ......
be upfront with dealership and let them know you have a battery drain but when you remove fuse 6,28,-- no battery drain. you suspect its the agw, any way they can install a "new" agw to check and see if the radio plays and/or the battery drain stops?? ask how much in labor fees this will run. you could actually have the agw "out" its hole and right there for them to make the switch and see. should save a bundle!!! now if the drain continues with the "new" agw, then its the headunit. only way to eliminate the agw is to make sure you got a no questions asked operating agw!!! sorry man, its a pain I know!!!! I, too, believe its the agw, if its a good agw, then the connections, wiring, etc etc... somethings not right with the agw.....
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mustafa226 (11-29-2016)
11-28-2016, 10:40 PM
#79
*Edit* Never mind ... looks like you already went through some of the steps I mentioned:
Deleted trouble shooting steps here ... I had said to disconnect each part physically and not just the fuses to see if the drain continues if the only additional thing I can add.
If you still cannot figure it out, I would consider one of those Android head units for the W211. Get rid of the old Comand and AGW all together. The Android HUs are actually pretty decent these days and not terribly expensive.
I doubt it is BCM, but if it is $1275.50, that is way too much! An Electrical connector, two nuts and a bolt in the trunk is all it takes to replace it. The part can be bought on Ebay for $100 to $200 used and I have seen them for $500 new.
Deleted trouble shooting steps here ... I had said to disconnect each part physically and not just the fuses to see if the drain continues if the only additional thing I can add.
If you still cannot figure it out, I would consider one of those Android head units for the W211. Get rid of the old Comand and AGW all together. The Android HUs are actually pretty decent these days and not terribly expensive.
I doubt it is BCM, but if it is $1275.50, that is way too much! An Electrical connector, two nuts and a bolt in the trunk is all it takes to replace it. The part can be bought on Ebay for $100 to $200 used and I have seen them for $500 new.
Thank you
11-28-2016, 10:59 PM
#80
man its a headache I know.... the consumer shutoff codes and the bcm "needing to be replaced" -- those were/are stored due to somewhere down the line, your battery wasn't good and the consumer shutoff got stored and whenever the battery is not up to 12.5 volts and greater, the bcm will have a fault too. so the battery being good, you can ignore the bcm code, rarely will the bcm go "faulty" but 100% will give the error code when the battery dips below 12.5 volts. so lets forget about the bcm and the consumer shutoffs, those are not whats draining the battery when plug fuse 6 and 28 back in. if no drain on battery without fuse 6,28 in, and then there is a drain when you replace these fuses, then we are right back to AGW. unlikely as it sounds, knowing you have replaced the AGW 2x, sorry to go out on a limb here and say, something is still faulty with the AGW... I know, sounds crazy!!
questions: did you mention to the dealership that the battery drains when you install fuse 6 and 28? one star said agw faulty, did the dealership mention installing a "new" agw to see if everything works again?? you have placed much time into this and hate to keep you going in circles but ......
be upfront with dealership and let them know you have a battery drain but when you remove fuse 6,28,-- no battery drain. you suspect its the agw, any way they can install a "new" agw to check and see if the radio plays and/or the battery drain stops?? ask how much in labor fees this will run. you could actually have the agw "out" its hole and right there for them to make the switch and see. should save a bundle!!! now if the drain continues with the "new" agw, then its the headunit. only way to eliminate the agw is to make sure you got a no questions asked operating agw!!! sorry man, its a pain I know!!!! I, too, believe its the agw, if its a good agw, then the connections, wiring, etc etc... somethings not right with the agw.....
questions: did you mention to the dealership that the battery drains when you install fuse 6 and 28? one star said agw faulty, did the dealership mention installing a "new" agw to see if everything works again?? you have placed much time into this and hate to keep you going in circles but ......
be upfront with dealership and let them know you have a battery drain but when you remove fuse 6,28,-- no battery drain. you suspect its the agw, any way they can install a "new" agw to check and see if the radio plays and/or the battery drain stops?? ask how much in labor fees this will run. you could actually have the agw "out" its hole and right there for them to make the switch and see. should save a bundle!!! now if the drain continues with the "new" agw, then its the headunit. only way to eliminate the agw is to make sure you got a no questions asked operating agw!!! sorry man, its a pain I know!!!! I, too, believe its the agw, if its a good agw, then the connections, wiring, etc etc... somethings not right with the agw.....
. You are absolutely right, the battery died twice before I took off the fuses 28 and 6. Answering your question, I did not mention to the dealer about the fuses, but I told them that my suspicious is in the gateway and asked them to check it and reprogram as you told me earlier, but they insisted that the problem is in the battery commanded and offered to replace it. I will go to the dealer again by the end of this week and tell them about the fused and see what they will tell. the problem that they charge CAD1,900.00 to replace the AGW including the labor, and it’s not available in stock as they need to order it, so I don’t think that they will try a new one for me, also they don’t provide a refurbished one, only new.
11-28-2016, 11:17 PM
#81
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S211 E350 wagon, w211 e550, 2023 glb250, 2013 Audi q7
Close the fiber optic on each unit. This should eliminate agw/cd changer/phone/sat and whatever other options your comand system has.then trace speaker wire or just run new speaker wire with new aftermarket amp. Good luck!!
Thank you turbo for your reply. I was thinking to replace the original head unit with an android one, I contacted the provider some time ago and asked him if i can still operate the unit without AGW/Fiber Optic cable and the answer was no. so is there a way that the android HU can work without the AGW. Thank you
Thank you
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mustafa226 (11-29-2016)
11-29-2016, 01:38 AM
#82
MBWorld Fanatic!
Most Android units require you NOT to have the AGW and bypasses all the fiber.
I have installed both NTG 2.5 and Android units to W211. The Android is the cheapest and easiest by far. Check out this link, but do not buy from the seller I bought from. There were issues that I could not resolve on my own and the seller did not reply. Fortunately, the guys on this thread are knowledgable and helpful.
This thread will provide everything you would need to know to install it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pics-txt.html
If you want to soldier on with resolving your issue, that is fine. I would as the recent poster mentioned, close off the loops of each optic fiber connector and join them end to end with some vacuum hose or tape. You have to remove them from the connector first (which is pretty straight forward). Remember the which one is in and which one is out (there is a difference) and there are arrows on the connectors showing in and out. The one with arrow going in to the unit will light up when power comes on and then goes off after not finding anything. Typically, I have found if there is something not closed off properly, I get no sound.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Personally, I would ditch the stock comand and go with Android. Way better user experience, however, need to be careful of some of the quality of the parts as you will see in my posts in the thread provided.
I have installed both NTG 2.5 and Android units to W211. The Android is the cheapest and easiest by far. Check out this link, but do not buy from the seller I bought from. There were issues that I could not resolve on my own and the seller did not reply. Fortunately, the guys on this thread are knowledgable and helpful.
This thread will provide everything you would need to know to install it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pics-txt.html
If you want to soldier on with resolving your issue, that is fine. I would as the recent poster mentioned, close off the loops of each optic fiber connector and join them end to end with some vacuum hose or tape. You have to remove them from the connector first (which is pretty straight forward). Remember the which one is in and which one is out (there is a difference) and there are arrows on the connectors showing in and out. The one with arrow going in to the unit will light up when power comes on and then goes off after not finding anything. Typically, I have found if there is something not closed off properly, I get no sound.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Personally, I would ditch the stock comand and go with Android. Way better user experience, however, need to be careful of some of the quality of the parts as you will see in my posts in the thread provided.
Thank you turbo for your reply. I was thinking to replace the original head unit with an android one, I contacted the provider some time ago and asked him if i can still operate the unit without AGW/Fiber Optic cable and the answer was no. so is there a way that the android HU can work without the AGW. Thank you
Thank you
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mustafa226 (11-29-2016)
11-29-2016, 10:41 PM
#83
11-29-2016, 10:47 PM
#84
Most Android units require you NOT to have the AGW and bypasses all the fiber.
I have installed both NTG 2.5 and Android units to W211. The Android is the cheapest and easiest by far. Check out this link, but do not buy from the seller I bought from. There were issues that I could not resolve on my own and the seller did not reply. Fortunately, the guys on this thread are knowledgable and helpful.
This thread will provide everything you would need to know to install it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pics-txt.html
If you want to soldier on with resolving your issue, that is fine. I would as the recent poster mentioned, close off the loops of each optic fiber connector and join them end to end with some vacuum hose or tape. You have to remove them from the connector first (which is pretty straight forward). Remember the which one is in and which one is out (there is a difference) and there are arrows on the connectors showing in and out. The one with arrow going in to the unit will light up when power comes on and then goes off after not finding anything. Typically, I have found if there is something not closed off properly, I get no sound.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Personally, I would ditch the stock comand and go with Android. Way better user experience, however, need to be careful of some of the quality of the parts as you will see in my posts in the thread provided.
I have installed both NTG 2.5 and Android units to W211. The Android is the cheapest and easiest by far. Check out this link, but do not buy from the seller I bought from. There were issues that I could not resolve on my own and the seller did not reply. Fortunately, the guys on this thread are knowledgable and helpful.
This thread will provide everything you would need to know to install it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pics-txt.html
If you want to soldier on with resolving your issue, that is fine. I would as the recent poster mentioned, close off the loops of each optic fiber connector and join them end to end with some vacuum hose or tape. You have to remove them from the connector first (which is pretty straight forward). Remember the which one is in and which one is out (there is a difference) and there are arrows on the connectors showing in and out. The one with arrow going in to the unit will light up when power comes on and then goes off after not finding anything. Typically, I have found if there is something not closed off properly, I get no sound.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Personally, I would ditch the stock comand and go with Android. Way better user experience, however, need to be careful of some of the quality of the parts as you will see in my posts in the thread provided.
07-31-2017, 12:32 AM
#85
Hi guys. I am still having the same problem with no luck to solve; the car is very boring without the HU. Decided to go with Android head unit. All installation steps are clear for me except how to run the speakers cable from the HU to the boot, can’t find any video showing how to remove the carpet to run the cable. Any tips would be highly appreciated.
Thank you
Thank you
07-31-2017, 12:56 AM
#86
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2004 MERC E55
running wires....
will answer this in 2 ways: involved way- remove the seats, all panels on the door sill, back panels besides the back seats, remove the back seat bottom and back also. this will allow you to pull up the whole carpet out of the car. sounds like a lot but once you get going its not really too bad. the front seats are the most pita!
another way less involved: run your wires from head unit to the underside of the drivers side dash and down to the door sill on drivers side, you will see a huge pack of wires wrap right there. you can lay your speaker wires inside that pack or zip tie it to those and follow it back, remove the door sills on driver's side front and rear and it goes straight back to the boot. good luck man!!!!
another way less involved: run your wires from head unit to the underside of the drivers side dash and down to the door sill on drivers side, you will see a huge pack of wires wrap right there. you can lay your speaker wires inside that pack or zip tie it to those and follow it back, remove the door sills on driver's side front and rear and it goes straight back to the boot. good luck man!!!!
07-31-2017, 01:00 AM
#87
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2004 MERC E55
additional info
you know thinking about it, you would still need to remove the back seats (bottom and back) so get access to the cover that "hides" the wires to route on to the boot. once you remove the rear seats you will see the thick pack of wires and how it goes down into the floor along the side of the driver's side door sill area there and also how it runs up to the boot.
07-31-2017, 11:24 PM
#88
you know thinking about it, you would still need to remove the back seats (bottom and back) so get access to the cover that "hides" the wires to route on to the boot. once you remove the rear seats you will see the thick pack of wires and how it goes down into the floor along the side of the driver's side door sill area there and also how it runs up to the boot.
08-13-2017, 03:02 PM
#90
today i will try to install the backup camera, any advise?
thank you
08-13-2017, 08:56 PM
#91
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2004 MERC E55
just take your time...
man if you have gotten this far then the rest should be a breeze! just follow the wiring back along the drivers side rear on thru to the trunk area and you can follow the wiring on up thru to the license plate lights. its up to you where you want to install and what stealthy setup you come up with. just take your time and if you do decide to drill a hole, think it over man!!!! congrats!!!!
08-21-2017, 11:04 PM
#92
man if you have gotten this far then the rest should be a breeze! just follow the wiring back along the drivers side rear on thru to the trunk area and you can follow the wiring on up thru to the license plate lights. its up to you where you want to install and what stealthy setup you come up with. just take your time and if you do decide to drill a hole, think it over man!!!! congrats!!!!
10-22-2017, 01:07 PM
#93
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2005 Mercedes Benz C-Class C320 4matic (W203)
‘05 C320 4matic
you are right C32Owner.... only problem in this case and unlike the cls and the w211 where our units had the agw and amp built in together whereby you could not differentiate which one was "bad", the ml320 have the amp and agw separate. of the 2, the amp is the less costly to "play with" and if the connections removed and reconnect do not do anything, then cSTAR would be next option and it will surely say the AGW. the agw is costly, running up close to and sometimes over $1000, but mercedes will want to replace that first and then back diagnose from there. i am hoping its just the amp for our fellow member and hoping this small ditch effort provides some relief???? we shall see........ i agree with the setup of our audio system: its terrible and very expensive not if it fails but when if fails!!! take care.
The problem I have is my rear speakers are low, I don’t think they’re bad at all. No crackling sounds or any irritating bad speaker sounds, just low volume & the volume knob does not increase the volume at all. I have tried everything from replacing fuses to taking them out for 30 minutes to a whole day. Bought a new AGM Bosch battery, tested alternator, checked the fiber optic cables, bypassed cd changer since the cateridge isn’t there and I don’t use it. Don’t think my car came with voice module or tele aid module. In the trunk the fiber optic wires are there and already bypassed (I guess in case you need it the wiring is there for you).
Question is please explain how the AGW is built with the HK amp? Does C320 4matic have their AGW behind the head unit? How do I go about locating it and troubleshooting it? Thanks
