SheriffDep

200 miles after my transmission was serviced I had the car in cruise control mode and the tranny stayed stuck in 7th and wouldn't down shift at all. Will keep cruising as long as I want, but won't shift coming to a stop or downshift if power is supplied.

The three times this occurred I had stopped, shut off the motor, then restarted and worked perfect. Appeared to be totally electronic issue. Today, I thought why not try some other things, I pushed into neutral then back to drive and nothing at all. Stayed in neutral. Pulled over shut off then restarted and fine again. Set the cruise, 20 min later same thing. Pulled over, shifted to P then R all was fine. Then to D and a clunk and was in 7th again. Shut off and restarted and all was fine for the next hour of the trip. For several weeks with local driving this never happened.

But after the second time (no cruise control on), when I pulled out on the road, I played around with it a little, 0-100 ran perfect, 40-90 ran perfect, 60-80 ran perfect then looked down and a CEL was on. (did gas up 80 miles earlier)(diff gas station also)

Had put 300 miles on the car with the resonator off, and air tube flaps off, and had air boxes off several times this week, and a tranny service with no issues.

Any ideas? Car does run fine but light on. Temps went from 50 yesterday, drove it 90 miles this mooring no issues, upon my return when it all started.

1cerberus4u

Check your fluid level

SheriffDep

How do I do that myself. I have no dipstick. Or not one that I can find behind the engine. This tranny issue part, happened two times last month, and not since. Driven 250 miles after tranny service this past week. Then today happened.

stockC43

Check codes first, but you may need a conductor plate or complete valve body (depends on software/hardware version) checking fluid in a 722.9 is not a easy task like the 722.6. You don't have a dipstick tube.

SheriffDep

Well guys code p2767 the famous Imput/Turbine Speed Sensor B Circuit No signal.

From what I have read these sensors are not too expensive but not sure about how to replace. Also not sure if whole valve body etc need replacing. Merc knows about this so wonder if they will cough up some help on it??? Any suggestions for this?

Found a good PDF this morning also. Also was mentioned that a Tranny Fluid Change and this issue go hand in hand. Any opinions??

The PDF is attached

Primus63

Op please keep us updated on this whole thing please. Very interested on how you fix this

Tx AMG

You can't get the sensor separate form the conductor plate. Has to be ordered trough the dealer also because it is a theft related item. If you have an older version VGS 1 valve body then the entire valve body will have to be replaced. If it's a VGS 2 or newer just need the conductor plate.

stockC43

That bulliten is for a c class built before oct 05 (assuming w/o a vin range guide) your car is a 07 e class. The early .9's had there fair share of issues. The reason you may need to do the whole valve body is that the early .9's had a different software/hardware version and the replacement conductor plates don't work with the early valve bodies. A star scanner/ dealer can tell you wich one you need. Conductor plate should be under $500 in parts where as a valve body ( comes w conductor plate) will be around $1000 in parts. Figure 3-4 hours labor with coding/adaption as well. As far as I know, only a dealer can code it.

stockC43

Beat me to it.

Glyn M Ruck

Just understand one thing. The turbine speed sensor output implausible is actually not a sign of a bad sensor any longer. It is a sign of a bad conductor plate. Siemens & Benz came to terrible blows over this issue of crap conductor plates. That bulletin only applies to very early transmissions where the turbine chewed up it's housing.

This transmission is going in & out of limp. On restart it reboots & then falls over again.

Replace the conductor plate. If they end up replacing the TCU at the same time they must flash the valve body calibration data to the new unit. Each valve body is individually flow benched & the TCU calibrated to that valve body.

BTW ~ They did not do a complete fluid change including TC & sufficient drain time for the cooler circuit or your fluid usage would be approx 9.5 litres. We have convered this issue ad nauseum on the W203, 204 & 209 forums. The TC holds 4 litres.

Good luck! ~ see reply to your PM

Glyn M Ruck

Another thing. Make sure your transmission has the new pan & white spill tube. Increased capacity.

SheriffDep

Mine is a early production 07 63. Wont know about the transmission till pulled up on Star hopefully tomorrow.

My understanding the Star will tell us if mine can have the conductor plate replaced or have to do the whole valve body.

I have emailed the Service Writer at the Merc Dealer about the Transmission service (asked before hand to make sure the TC was drained, they said it would be) to explain the 6 quarts to me.

I read all the C class threads before writing this one, put this one out here for us w211 guys, and to see if anything new since early 13' was changed. I will help keep this one updated so other members can be aware of what to do, and how to do it financially the best, cost effective way.

Will post Star findings Monday afternoon with results.

Glyn M Ruck

The 722.9 transmission has seen many updates. You need a Star to identify exactly where you stand. We sometimes find strange things in cars that can only be checked by VIN & build. An older unit in a newer car. I guess working off inventory.

It is unlikely you will require a complete valve body replacement. In the early days Benz did not trust dealers to reflash calibration data. These days they are comfortable with it.

Tx AMG

Just to help clear it up the trans control module is built into the elec conductor plate. The come together as one unit so it always has to be coded with SDS.

Glyn M Ruck

Depends on market. In some markets you can get the conductor plate sans TCU. Seems the US norm is indeed with TCU & yes you need to cross flash calibration data.

Glyn M Ruck

Here is the typical conductor plate sold in the US including TCU.

stockC43

If it is vgs1 it (mb) won't allow you to code a replacement conductor plate. Also the tcm is part of the conductor plate. .6's were separate. If there is a coding workaround with vgs1 where a valve body replacement isn't nessasary, I've never seen it. Would nice if there was though.

SheriffDep

I talked with my INDY today:

1. He's said due to the fluid change (6qts only) there might be an issue with overfill or under fill. The CEL came on when under full power, p2767. The factory fill is 9.5 total, so a change with 8-9 might have been reasonable, however 6?, needs explaining.

2. IF over or under, then could cause the code and limp issue, which I think we all knew anyway. His biggest worry is driving th e75 miles back to the dealer for them to check it. I emailed them and response is or should be tomorrow. He is afraid if it a wrong level more damage could be done.

3. Also at 289 plus tax he is scratching his head how they could do it for that price to begin. He said 2hr labor, plus fluid would be over that anyway. One MB quoted 450 the other 289. I asked the 289 if the TC was included three times and they assured me yes. We know what to call that, BS. But they have been good to me on a Maserati so I went with them for this.

4. IF conductor plate needs it only, hopefully mine is separate, then he CAN do it and code it correctly- but no warranty. He said pending price from dealer he might say just go with them to get the warranty on it.

5. Any body deal with these online companies who replace parts on the valve body or conductor plate????? They somehow replace the sensors and other electronic parts and keep the coded information, so no security issues and warranty the stuff for two years. Price is under 500 including overnight shipping. There are at least 3 companies doing this. INDY said MB parts only which is usually what happen for me anyway.

Will keep it updated each step of the way.

stockC43

I know of china made .9 valve bodies/conductor plates and run from those. You can get shift solonoids separately but the speed/rpm sensors are part of the conductor plate. At my dealer a trans service is $349 and per MB only the fluid in the pan and filter gets changed. Usually ends up being about 5.5l of fluid.

SheriffDep

I was under the impression that MB WIS states full TC change also under a Transmission Service, not a flush. From C class threads and others on MBworld it appears that MB dealers are only doing the pan drain and not the full instructions that MB says.

Thats why I asked in the first place and said I wanted that done specifically. This wall all fluid is drained and your not just replacing several bad liters of ATF with several new mixing in with the other leftover bad.

My INDY said thats not a horrible thing, as long as you change fluid every 20k or so. Def will not last 40k miles that way. So for those of us doing it ourselves then pan drain and refill is not terrible. But when a dealer says they are draining the TC and they don't, thats an issue. Both dealers said they did , one priced 450 the other 289. Obviously I went with the 289, additional 50 miles each way. They didn't do it, so I am gonna hold them to the fire on it. They should be better informed if a customer asks several times, to not just give a blanket answer. Its in the WIS for the service per MB anyway. They are just taking the short route in my opinion. Unless I am misinformed.

stockC43

I checked the wis document and now it does say to drain the tc. Maybe they changed it due to all the .9 issues.

Glyn M Ruck

That is a half arsed change & a direct violation of the WIS. The WIS has always stated you should drain the TC on all but the very early 2004 722.9 fitted to the S Class that had no drain plug like 722.6 TC from 1999 onward to 2006. They are not draining the TC. Then they lie to customers & say there is no drain plug. Benz USA dealers that do this should be shot ~ see all the cases on the W204 forum. This is a sensitive transmission & works it's fluid hard. At 39K miles or 60K Km's the fluid is shot. I have looked at hundreds of used samples. Doing a half fluid change is like mixing crap with ice cream. You end up with crap. Oxidised fluid left behind catalyses oxidation in the new fluid.

Fluid & filter should be changed completely every 39K miles or 60K Km's.

SheriffDep

Just spoke with SM, he said this.

1. They will refund the tran service money, then do it right. He completely understands and said what I figured logical and understandable. Totally agreed. (the 289 price for dealers IS a promotional price to get new business. He said they take a bath when they offer it financially)(totally makes sense but use em when you can, as long as the work is done right)

2. If conductor plate is bad, yes 1200 or so, Can be done at same time, but needs the car to make sure obviously.

HERE IS THE BIG ONE------------------

3. Good Will ----- MB looks at customer loyalty, one car or two cars doesn't make a diff, did you buy an extended warranty- if not then doesn't make a diff, type of car really doesn't make a diff, NOT purchasing from MB and from a independent dealer makes a diff. Basically unless you have purchased a car several times from a MB Dealer, gotten a extended warranty, you are out of luck.

He said MB leaves it up to the individual Service Managers to decide what the good will will be. Budget for each dealer. He said my car is still coming up not in my name (just got it 2k miles ago) so thats even worse. Shows I bought a used car from a independent dealer, and no extended warranty. SO NO GOOD WILL from MB. I asked who to talk with at MbUSA, he said that would not change a thing they would just call him and have the same conversation.

On the other hand, He said HE would help me out from HIS budget. Not sure how much, but he said he would do the best he can and not to worry. He is reaching to take care of me it appears. So going with it till otherwise I find out things. There was no arguing or having to explain twice.

I said according to WIS the whole fluid supposed to be drained. How does 6L factor in when 8-9 should be used for the drain. (yes 9.5 for me total) He totally agreed the Tech half assed it and got it out of the shop. If I didn't know then no one would be the wiser. At least I asked three times before the drain.

Put me on waiting list for loaner.

Glyn M Ruck

MBUSA has the strangest attitude to these issues & goodwill. As I have said many times they are considered a loose cannon by Stuttgart.

All that said I am detecting a willing attitude to help you here & you might be best off accepting it.

It is encouraging to see a dealer admitting they screwed up instead of lying as so many have on the 204 forum regarding this issue. MBUSA has even been caught out perpetuating this lie recently.

SheriffDep

Here is where it all stands now:

1. Dealer is being totally helpful and understanding. Offered to give back the funds, then redo the work correctly, with no issue and financially helping me out somehow due to the inconvenience of it all.

2. Conductor plate is needing replacement, more than likely so........
Dealer will incorporate that into the fluid service to save money on that and good willing funds from HIS budget to do it, not MBUSA.

MBUSA policy towards Good Will --------- Customer must or should have been a loyal long time customer. That means in layman's terms owners of 6-7 vehicles purchased from a MB Dealer. ALL maintenance should have been performed at a MB Dealer and a track recored showing car taken care of. Vehicle should likely be within several miles and time of warranty timeframe. There are always exceptions to the rule but the Service Manager at your dealership is the one to dictate what can be done.

IF you call MBUSA personally, they will say they will get back to you, then immediately call the dealer and talk with the SM and come up with the exact same thing. They take a percentage of the total cost themselves, make the customer pay some, and then MAKE the dealer EAT the rest out of their budget. So the dealer is the best way to work a deal, and when something is reasonable jump on it, might be the best way. If calling around you might get a deal taken away for being a PITA. Just my observation.

Extended warranty might be the best alternative for the long run. Looking into it, got a sweet deal if it works out. COST on the plan, not what retail is. Less than 50% of what has been mentioned on this forum for plans, and its for 36 months or 36k miles beyond where I am at 70k. Dam that might be worth it, with no deductible either.