All,


I must not be finding the right threads in my search, not using right terms or now wondering if it was in a thread I found but perhaps didn't read it all the way through so missed it, but just need to ask:


What is the guidance on determining how many, if any, shims are required during S/C pulley install? Anything else to consider aside from a stock install procedure?


I actually couldn't even find instructions for the install anywhere, which I assumed would discuss this. I decided to let my Indy do the install, so just want to pass them this info.

 

There is instructions I have some ill post for you

 

if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )

anyways

Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.

1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e

 

use all shims for the s/c pulley.

 

hmm, yeah doesn't look too hard (hell I did my own crank pulley on my old C32). I guess I was hesitant more because of a couple posts by folks who said that had hell of a time getting pulley off or couldn't get it off at all (fear making things worse).


Nice directions though...I think you are selling me on doing it myself...thanks. Would you remember how much tourque used to put it on or did you just crank it on there? Were you using std breaker bar?


Shardul emailed me cleaence specs .35-.45mm

 

its silly easy. You can have it off in less than 10 minutes.

 

Also been searching through past entries for this, thanks for the additional info berti_00. If all we are doing is pressing a new bearing onto the stock s/c pulley, no additional shims are needed? the .35-.45mm clearance is between the s/c clutch and the pulley itself?

 

I recently did this myself.. pulled the stock pulley off to try and cure the chirp on engagement. Used the hoseclamp method and had it off in a couple minutes - not sure why some people need an impact to get that bolt off?? Anyway.. I cleaned up the clutch surface on the pulley with some emery paper, and did the same to the supercharger side. I did pull one shim out, due to the wear on the clutch (80k on the car). My bearing was still good, so I didn't replace that.

Put everything back together and it's smooth as butter now - no chirp, just smooth unnoticeable engagement (except for getting thrown back in the seat ).

I think if you're just changing the bearing you'll be fine with the stock shim setup.

 

+1 shims??? getting ready to do this myself

 

I have 3 in mine

 

This will become all plainly obvious when I pull this thing apart...

 

What was the torque spec you all used on the bolt after replacement?

BTW- my car has 145k miles, the bearing is squealing and is not wanting to come off, I modified a puller in hopes to get some grip on the pulley so I can remove it... will update with how that goes.

 

I'm hearing 40 ft-lbs + red loctite from some of the other threads?

 

A comment was made above about getting rid of the supercharger 'chirp'.

I too had that on my SL55 when I bought it last summer. Over the winter, I installed the Belt Wrap Kit (from Shardul), along with the smaller SC pulley. Not a single incident of 'chirp' since they were installed. And, the acceleration rate results are very significant.

 

Red loctite is the devil. Blue would be my preferred product to use.

 

As far as torque on the 2003 AMG C32 SC pulley, it is NOT 40ft/lbs, it is 20nm (or 177 in/lbs, or 14.7 ft/lbs).

 

As luck would have it, the SC pulley on our C32 AMG did NOT want to come off. I had a hard time getting any gear pullers to grab onto the the pulley so while I was at the auto parts store I saw a cheap $6 puller that figured I would modify. You can see from the pics that basically I ground down the flanges so they fit the belt grooves of the pulley. I then tightened down a hose clamp around the puller flanges to keep it from slipping out of the groves and this worked like a champ. It allowed me to use this modified puller to easily remove the pulley. I then used the heat and freeze method to put the new bearing in the pulley and it worked like a champ! Thanks to everyone on these forums that always help with info!!! You all rock!

 

Glad you got it all working

 

Confirmed that the actual torque spec for the center bolt on the e55 is 60Nm, or about 44 ft-lbs. Scan of BrianS's post attached.

 

i had eurocharged do mine, i didnt see them put any shims in, i watch him pull the old one off and just put the new one on.

 

The Shims are on there already you'd have to get of by hand gently without bending them. They left what was there and that's it. Some don't need more

 

See those 2 pins sticking out of the shaft on the last photo? My car has never had those. Anyone else run into this? Do I need to worry about them? It seems to run like a raped ape so I'm wondering if they're necessary?
Regards

 

^^^ They've been sheared off when removing the bolt. I broke mine off when i removed my pulley for the first time. I just put the holes in the washer over the broken off bit and it still located a little bit and did it up with blue loctite... its been fine ever since.

People should be learning to use a feeler gauge when setting these up. They need to be between .35 and no higher than .55 or so imo. Once you start getting over .6mm I can see it putting stress on the springs that allow the thing to move. Thats how these things get fractured over time. With the shot bearing and the wear on mine it was at .8mm.... way to high.

Also for the high mileage guys that find there are big steps on the wear surface of the clutch surface i suggest you surface grind .1mm off it and then remove a shim or two from behind to get within the tolerance. My 230,000km car has never driven better since i did this and no chirp.

 

Hi guys! Doing this today, where exactly are the shimms located?

 

Shims are right behind the pulley - you'd see them when you take it off. It's the circular metal things.

Btw there is a pulley failure thread in which the consensus was that "shims are on need only basis" that means- don't go by what someone posts here but

rather what's the stock distance between existing pulley. So if the existing distance is .35 maintain that and don't increase or decrease that.

Good luck