S/C Pulley install Guidance regarding Shims
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 392
Likes: 21
From: Northern Suburb of Indianapolis
CLS55
S/C Pulley install Guidance regarding Shims
All,
I must not be finding the right threads in my search, not using right terms or now wondering if it was in a thread I found but perhaps didn't read it all the way through so missed it, but just need to ask:
What is the guidance on determining how many, if any, shims are required during S/C pulley install? Anything else to consider aside from a stock install procedure?
I actually couldn't even find instructions for the install anywhere, which I assumed would discuss this. I decided to let my Indy do the install, so just want to pass them this info.
I must not be finding the right threads in my search, not using right terms or now wondering if it was in a thread I found but perhaps didn't read it all the way through so missed it, but just need to ask:
What is the guidance on determining how many, if any, shims are required during S/C pulley install? Anything else to consider aside from a stock install procedure?
I actually couldn't even find instructions for the install anywhere, which I assumed would discuss this. I decided to let my Indy do the install, so just want to pass them this info.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,403
Likes: 140
From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
2016 Cls63s AMG
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this 
)
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
)anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 392
Likes: 21
From: Northern Suburb of Indianapolis
CLS55
hmm, yeah doesn't look too hard (hell I did my own crank pulley on my old C32). I guess I was hesitant more because of a couple posts by folks who said that had hell of a time getting pulley off or couldn't get it off at all (fear making things worse).
Nice directions though...I think you are selling me on doing it myself...thanks. Would you remember how much tourque used to put it on or did you just crank it on there? Were you using std breaker bar?
Shardul emailed me cleaence specs .35-.45mm
Nice directions though...I think you are selling me on doing it myself...thanks. Would you remember how much tourque used to put it on or did you just crank it on there? Were you using std breaker bar?
Shardul emailed me cleaence specs .35-.45mm
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 570
Likes: 3
'14 C63 507, '11 C300, '96 Cobra, '91 Mr2
Also been searching through past entries for this, thanks for the additional info berti_00. If all we are doing is pressing a new bearing onto the stock s/c pulley, no additional shims are needed? the .35-.45mm clearance is between the s/c clutch and the pulley itself?
Trending Topics
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
'04 E55 AMG, '03 ML500, ‘13 BMW 528i
I recently did this myself.. pulled the stock pulley off to try and cure the chirp on engagement. Used the hoseclamp method and had it off in a couple minutes - not sure why some people need an impact to get that bolt off?? Anyway.. I cleaned up the clutch surface on the pulley with some emery paper, and did the same to the supercharger side. I did pull one shim out, due to the wear on the clutch (80k on the car). My bearing was still good, so I didn't replace that.
Put everything back together and it's smooth as butter now - no chirp, just smooth unnoticeable engagement (except for getting thrown back in the seat).
I think if you're just changing the bearing you'll be fine with the stock shim setup.
Put everything back together and it's smooth as butter now - no chirp, just smooth unnoticeable engagement (except for getting thrown back in the seat
).I think if you're just changing the bearing you'll be fine with the stock shim setup.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 2
E90M3, E55 AMG
+1 shims??? getting ready to do this myself
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2003 C32 AMG
Torque on the bolt?
What was the torque spec you all used on the bolt after replacement?
BTW- my car has 145k miles, the bearing is squealing and is not wanting to come off, I modified a puller in hopes to get some grip on the pulley so I can remove it... will update with how that goes.
BTW- my car has 145k miles, the bearing is squealing and is not wanting to come off, I modified a puller in hopes to get some grip on the pulley so I can remove it... will update with how that goes.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 306
Likes: 19
From: West Chester, PA - USA
2003 SL55 AMG
A comment was made above about getting rid of the supercharger 'chirp'.
I too had that on my SL55 when I bought it last summer. Over the winter, I installed the Belt Wrap Kit (from Shardul), along with the smaller SC pulley. Not a single incident of 'chirp' since they were installed. And, the acceleration rate results are very significant.
I too had that on my SL55 when I bought it last summer. Over the winter, I installed the Belt Wrap Kit (from Shardul), along with the smaller SC pulley. Not a single incident of 'chirp' since they were installed. And, the acceleration rate results are very significant.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 714
Likes: 7
From: Atlanta, GA
2005- E55, 2007 GL450, 94 B3000
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2003 C32 AMG
My workaround for a stubborn SC pulley removal (with pics)
As luck would have it, the SC pulley on our C32 AMG did NOT want to come off. I had a hard time getting any gear pullers to grab onto the the pulley so while I was at the auto parts store I saw a cheap $6 puller that figured I would modify. You can see from the pics that basically I ground down the flanges so they fit the belt grooves of the pulley. I then tightened down a hose clamp around the puller flanges to keep it from slipping out of the groves and this worked like a champ. It allowed me to use this modified puller to easily remove the pulley. I then used the heat and freeze method to put the new bearing in the pulley and it worked like a champ! Thanks to everyone on these forums that always help with info!!! You all rock!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,403
Likes: 140
From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
2016 Cls63s AMG
The Shims are on there already you'd have to get of by hand gently without bending them. They left what was there and that's it. Some don't need more
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 618
Likes: 3
2006 CL600
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
)anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
Regards
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 95
From: NZ
2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
^^^ They've been sheared off when removing the bolt. I broke mine off when i removed my pulley for the first time. I just put the holes in the washer over the broken off bit and it still located a little bit and did it up with blue loctite... its been fine ever since.
People should be learning to use a feeler gauge when setting these up. They need to be between .35 and no higher than .55 or so imo. Once you start getting over .6mm I can see it putting stress on the springs that allow the thing to move. Thats how these things get fractured over time. With the shot bearing and the wear on mine it was at .8mm.... way to high.
Also for the high mileage guys that find there are big steps on the wear surface of the clutch surface i suggest you surface grind .1mm off it and then remove a shim or two from behind to get within the tolerance. My 230,000km car has never driven better since i did this and no chirp.
People should be learning to use a feeler gauge when setting these up. They need to be between .35 and no higher than .55 or so imo. Once you start getting over .6mm I can see it putting stress on the springs that allow the thing to move. Thats how these things get fractured over time. With the shot bearing and the wear on mine it was at .8mm.... way to high.
Also for the high mileage guys that find there are big steps on the wear surface of the clutch surface i suggest you surface grind .1mm off it and then remove a shim or two from behind to get within the tolerance. My 230,000km car has never driven better since i did this and no chirp.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 7
From: Canada
2004 E55 AMG
Shims are right behind the pulley - you'd see them when you take it off. It's the circular metal things.
Btw there is a pulley failure thread in which the consensus was that "shims are on need only basis" that means- don't go by what someone posts here but
rather what's the stock distance between existing pulley. So if the existing distance is .35 maintain that and don't increase or decrease that.
Good luck
Btw there is a pulley failure thread in which the consensus was that "shims are on need only basis" that means- don't go by what someone posts here but
rather what's the stock distance between existing pulley. So if the existing distance is .35 maintain that and don't increase or decrease that.
Good luck
