chawkins2001

Weistec sent us a couple files, no change.
We used Paul's file, no change.
We used that CLS55 TT file in jersey, no change.
Tons of hours Tony put into tuning, no change.

Soon Dane, I could have two Weistec blower kits already based on this TT BOLT ON kit.

Other than RBJ and I swapping notes on the intake, we have not shared anything else with each other.

Joncl

Thanks for your honesty again. Do you think a turbo is a doable and reliable mod?

Denroll

If you'd like to try a $25 experiment, Bramage and I chased down the Bosch number for the most recent version of the MAP sensor. European guys are claiming it cured their limp mode issues. I have one on order and hope to have it by the weekend. This is a part that supersedes the latest version of the MAP sensor the US dealers are listing as the most current one.

I want to see these turbos work!

chawkins2001

This is what the pull looks like.

FASN8N

Craig,

Hang in there buddy.
This is not the first hurdle you have had to jump with the car. You have overcome challenges on your build in the past and were successful. This time will be no different.
See it through and I am sure you will have a big smile on your face as this car approaches the 9sec barrier.

Joncl

How much boost? That chart is not pretty, no offense

Denroll

That curve looks like it's getting ready to take right off.

In case you want it, here's my findings on the latest MAP sensor.

-Original MAP sensor MB part number: 004 153 3328
-Superseded by MB part number: 005 153 7228. As of July 2014, this was the latest version my local dealer listed.
-Superseded by MB part number: 006 153 1428. I got that info from "MB Specialist" in The Netherlands.
-The corresponding Bosch number for this sensor is 0 261 230 191. It lists as being fully interchangeable with all three MB part numbers above. I was able to avoid the dealer molestation tax and order it from O'Reilley's for $24.99.

whipplem104

I do not remember or maybe it has never been posted but what exhaust manifolds are you using? Have you checked back pressure at the turbo. I have seen drop offs like that with really high exhaust back pressure and on restricted engines. It is like hitting a wall.

chawkins2001

using the stock manifolds just like the cls55 tt.

RedBullJnky

Craig, you need to put the flappers back in the intake and seal them open to direct air flow. Your still causing turbulence the way you have it setup. And, I know you don't want to hear it, but you need to back off the boost (to 11psi) and start slowly. Tune, then move up. Tune, them move up. That's how we got it to work. I started at 5psi and retuned for every 1psi I move up.

You'll get it brotha, I have faith. Just be patient. And believe me, I know how much $$$ this is taking.

viren.89

Good luck Craig.

whipplem104

I would think that you are hitting a wall on the air flow in the manifolds. If so you would see exhaust pressure spike in the manifold not increase in a linear fashion. If you could get a probe in there to check it would be worth while.
Air goes supersonic when you hit the wall. On the rally car I tune it has a restrictor in the intake in front of the turbo and it goes into full vacuum within a 100rpm. It is not gradual at all. I also had similar dyno graphs on my personal car years ago with a supercharger and the stock exhaust. It would have a 10psi spike in the exhaust system. I had a probe in the egr port. Actually that is not a bad idea for rigging up a sensor. You could probably either go to egr or the secondary air injection ports in the head.
Neither would break up though. IT would just flatten out and power would drop off like a stone.

Forrest Gump 9

Hey Craig

I have not reading this thread until tonight. I don't remember if ips have the wgs plumped back into the exhaust or not. If it is I would suggest try to let the wgs open to atmosphere and see if that help. If you need, I do have a stock w210 intake manifold somewhere in my basement. Anyway, good luck, "keep calm and chive on".

chawkins2001

Hey brotha, we re-routed the waste gates to the open atmosphere to eliminate that issue.

Joncl

How much boost ?

BI-Performance

It is 13lb springs, and we are seeing high 12's at taper.

Joncl

Ya that's weird bud

RedBullJnky

Strap the car down tighter. Looks like you are spinning.

blackbenzz

Looks like your dyno graph would make for a nice roller coaster ride! lol What happens to the AFR when the hp plummets? What happens to the boost?

Rob CL

Been following along. Lots of great reading. Which gear are you using? How about MPH at the cut-off?

Looks like you're near 90%... That last 10% is a PITA.

blackbenzz

Good news is it looks like it will make really good power once it's able to pull to redline. Don't give up! Being a pioneer takes alot of effort, then everybody will copy you when it's done lol

TTE55

Dont know if this helps at all Craig but here is the dyno sheet from when the kit was on my car.

Joncl

Car is not slipping on the rollers.

whipplem104

You might try dropping the boost a few pounds and inching your way back up like suggested. See if it pulls straight through at lower boost levels.

chawkins2001

It is strapped down pretty tight. On one of the runs the car snapped one of the straps on the hit and it almost got ugly. It's not pretty to see that when it is your own sled on there

Thanks so much for all the feedback guys, really appreciate it.