Hall of shame. Who here is in? Story time
Turns out I put in the clutch fork in backwards and the throw out bearing popped out. It was the fork coming into contact with the diaphragm spring that actuated the clutch. Only wore it half down so flipped it around and put it all back together.
A lesson in frustrations over my automotive life have been.
Replacing spark plugs and wires in a 4th gen Fbody 350V8
Changing the front right fender on my MG (get a little frost bite on that one)
Adjusting the spring in the 1970 MGB fuel pump 4 times on one trip
Breaking free the torx bolts on my E63 (had to take it to a shop and gladly paid them for 30min which took 10min)
I am sure I am mentally blocking more...
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; Sep 19, 2014 at 10:00 PM.
This all started when i went to go for a drive the other night - the drivers side lamp flickered and the message center told me that my low beam went out. I know there are 2 options for lamps on this car, i thought i had Xenon (HID) lamps but was not sure so i wanted to remove the lamp first prior to buying a replacement. I went under the hood and removed the plastic barb that secures the coolant tank so i could get a little room to work on the light. You can't completely remove this screw, just back it out so the barb contracts and then take a pair of pliers and pull it out being careful not to drop or break it. The access is very tight on the drivers side so if you have someone with small hands you may want to keep them around for this.
Now that you have a little wiggle room remove the light cover by turning it about a quarter of a turn counter clockwise - all of my rotational directions will be as if you were looking at the back of the light from the drivers seat. Now you have access to the ballast - about a 2 inch square black plastic block on the back of the lamp - twist it about an eight of a turn counterclockwise and remove the ballast and the electrical connector. The lamp is retained in the light pod by spring clips - move the clips out of their catch positions and remove the lamp.
I took my lamp to autozone and got replacements - i bought two since it has been my experience that the lamp life expectancies are very close so when one goes the other will soon follow. The lamps were Sylvania Xenarc HID Xenon D2S - at one hundred bucks apiece - ouch - they discounted them 20 bucks - I know i could get them cheaper on the net but they had them so i took the plunge.
Came back to the garage and put the lamp in being careful not to touch the glass or there goes a hundred bucks - I wore a latex glove. Replaced the spring clips to secure the lamp in the fixture. I thought i would put the electrical connector on the ballast and replace the ballast since i don't have small hands and you basically have to work by feel once the ballast in in the light fixture.
Much to my surprise and frustration i could not replace the ballast. I could get the ballast back on the lamp but for the life of me i could not twist it back to its locked position. To cut to the chase and get to the point of this post - YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE BALLAST WITH THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR IN PLACE - YOU HAVE TO PUT THE BALLAST ON AND THEN REPLACE THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. There is an inner ring and outer ring on the ballast. The outer ring is fixed and the inner ring moves. The lamp has shoulders on it that are received into the ballast to fully secure it. If the slots on the inner ring and outer ring are not aligned you cannot fully engage the ballast and lock it back into place.
I chased this problem around the mulberry bush for the better part of an hour - just could not fathom what was wrong. I finally got to the point that i was pulling the ballast off, aligning the slots with a screwdriver, putting the electrical connector on and trying to put it on the lamp - no go - i then finally aligned the slots with the connector off, put the connector on and saw without trying to put it on the lamp that the inner ring springs into a different position - presumably to further lock the lamp in place. Eureka and you have to be *&$!ing kidding me all at the same time. I then aligned the rings, replaced the ballast and then worked blind to put the connector back on. Lights, vroom, action - all is well in mudville!!!
I really hope this post helps someone escape the clever mousetrap i was caught in trying to do a simple relamping. For my Karma i am choosing to compliment the MB designers on a clever design. We all know these cars are different and awesome machines and you need to have your wits about you if you choose to work on them yourself.
Cheers!
Engine blew the oil filter off and died, about the same time the transmission overheated and blew up.
I will admit, dinner did not go over smoothly that night.
Now I am a Transmission Rebuilder/Ford Mechanic and Automotive Instructor so when you are done reading this "special" story your going to say "Are you F-ing kidding me" HOW??? OK I am very strict on fluid changes so I decide right off the bat to change everything,engine, radiator, trans, diff, brakes and power steering fluid.Since the trans has no dip stick I drain out 2.5 qts and refill from there. I do this because I no nothing about this trans or car at this point and again have no dip stick for the trans.So I go to put back the 2.5 qts in the trans "into" the red capped "filler" tube on the top side of the engine that looks like it goes right down to the trans...."looks like".
Everything all done I take her for a spin. Hmmmmm....trans feels funny...like its low on fluid. Bring her back, pull the drain plug and now only 1 qt comes out. WTF what happened to the fluid. Now the car will just about go into gear after she's off the lift and I have to baby it back to the shop. I am now in a full blown panic of a 3 day old car. Turns out after 3 techs and myself scratching our heads, that red capped filler tube was for the suction of "MOTOR" oil!! the engine is now almost 5 qts over full of transmission fluid and the trans is empty in the pan!!!!
How it didnt F-up the rings in the engine is beyond me but all is well and I even have a dip stick for it now. LOL Had to change the motor oil all over again as well to clean her out.This is what happens when you take something for granted because you have done it a thousand times!!
and the car... We won't talk about the 24s and straightpiped exhaust.




<sigh>
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Raise the jack and start smelling dinosaur poop. WTF is that smell? I look under car and 5 quarts of transmission fluid dripping out of my now cracked transmission pan all over my new house's garage floor. Luckily it's a $30 part, and the cracked transmission pan now serves as an ashtray.
That's way too funny and even I have cracked an oil cap in a similar situation once before but realized !When AEM came out with the 1st gen cold air intakes, I got one and installed it and it was the long ram types to go thru fender and close to ground (somewhere in '99-'00 I did this). I forgot to put back the dam fender liner during install and sucked massive water instead of air heading to work next morning in a downpour monsoon. Hydro locked the thing and a snapped rod flew through the block and stabbed the fluidyne radiator. Plain view of crank and all. The AEM water bypass in line filter was released later on...

What pissed me off most was 15 mins later, the sun was out ever so lovely and I can see my trail of my oil/water rainbow mixture on the road.
Also threw out a rod on my Audi 5yrs ago when I asked/begged for the X + and 2 more additional psi on a reflash software from GIAC. Rod snapped but stayed home comfy
Last edited by RikTT; Oct 12, 2014 at 12:55 PM.
Last edited by Thericker; Oct 12, 2014 at 03:08 PM.
Last edited by Hammer Down; Oct 12, 2014 at 06:47 PM.
They wanted like $169.95 to do the work.
Well that seemed steep, so I just took it home and pushed the garden hose down the oil fill and let if run for about 15 minutes.
Car is mis-firing a bit now, but at least I didn't get ripped off by those aholes.
<sigh>





