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Those are not flange bolts, which just means they don't have the head with a built-in washer. They should work just fine, but you will need a washer under the head of the bolt as well as one on the nut side. I also noticed they did not specify the thread pitch. They are probably 1.75 mm threads, but you might want to confirm that before you buy the nuts.
I just dropped the front subframe on my 212 E63 to get the engine out still attached to the gearbox.
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
I just dropped the front subframe on my 212 E63 to get the engine out still attached to the gearbox.
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
The front subframes aren't a problem. Re-use the old bolts, or get new factory bolts if they're torque-to-yield (one time use). Only the rear bolts on the rear subframe of a W211 are a problem, as far as I know.
Rear sub-frame bolts pulled captured nut from chassis
I had the same problem and I want to say thanks. The symptoms were, rubber squeaking sound from the rear when accelerating. Thumping sound from rear when going over bumps. Suspension creaking. Instability from rear end, actually checked rear tire pressure a few days prior to failure. I think one bolt jerked out a month before while doing a burn-out and the second jerked out accelerating from a stop light normally. This information made the fix easy. I used six dollars worth of Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts from Home Depot and a 3" cut-off wheel for the drill.
I still haven't gotten around to doing that, but the plan is to get a rubber sheet from my local hardware store and use a bead of RTV to glue it over the hole.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
I still haven't gotten around to doing that, but the plan is to get a rubber sheet from my local hardware store and use a bead of RTV to glue it over the hole.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
Same thing just happened to me, the only thing I can't find is the torque specs for the bolts.
This is something I'd like to hand off to a shop, but there's not a single damn shop that will know how to deal with this.
If you do the job before you have a failure it's very easy.
Just get the nuts, bolts, and washers, a 1/2" drill bit and a 2" hole saw and follow my directions in the first post. I was surprised at how easy the job was.
I have well over 100 passes on my car, all on drag radials at the track with no problems.
I do hear clunking on the left, and ticking when I raise and lower the airmatic in the same spot. So that alone worries me it's time to get the bolts changed out.
The links in the op are dead for the bolts, what's the best place to get em?
No standard, read the entire thread, lots of intel on how past repairs have been accomplished.
In short, 2 plates of steel are used (above and below) to sandwich the frame and and longer bolts to hold the subframe onto the chassis
/-\ Nut (wheel well area on top ---------- steel plate
^
======= frame
^ ---------- steel plate
^
=-=-=-= Subframe
\-/ Bolt (Bottom under carriage side)
*lil more accurate ASCII lovin'*
Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
I just updated the original post with new links to get the fasteners.
Did anyone end up running steel plate between the subframe and the frame and ALSO above the frame? I'm wondering what thickness of plate was used, dimensions, and also if a longer bolt was needed?
I did this mod first so i didnt have to deal with this but my buddy wasnt so lucky i had to help him we did a cobalt drill bit and then used an easy out to take it out. Wasnt easy but take ur time an itll come use plenty of wd40 or whatever ur preference as well this will help loosen it up. Then make sure to use very thick hardened steel washers on both sides when assembling an i used both a locking nut and locktite.
looks like im another lucky winner of this carnage , turned onto my road at like 20mph, and then i hear a pop ..... put it on the lift, and low and behold, bolts intact, hole in frame lmfao. **** you MB!!!! 81k for miles btw, stock other than UPD pulley, BWK, and trans/ecu tune ..
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
looks like im another lucky winner of this carnage , turned onto my road at like 20mph, and then i hear a pop ..... put it on the lift, and low and behold, bolts intact, hole in frame lmfao. **** you MB!!!! 81k for miles btw, stock other than UPD pulley, BWK, and trans/ecu tune ..
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
I've only seen the rear two bolts have problems, presumably because they are the ones under tension during acceleration. I wouldn't worry about the front two.
04-09-2017, 01:12 AM
Rear sub-frame bolts pulled captured nut from chassis
