Please tell me if I've been ripped off by my mechanic??
10-15-2014, 09:20 AM
#26
Hello,
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
Last edited by Francorchamps; 10-15-2014 at 09:24 AM.
10-15-2014, 09:34 AM
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hello,
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Last edited by HeissRod; 10-16-2014 at 05:03 PM.
10-15-2014, 12:22 PM
#29
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2004 AMG E55, 2011 Ram 2500 6.7L
"if one goes there's good chance the other one is soon to follow"
I feel that this statement is true, think of the mechanics/materials. Both are built the same and both have seen the same miles. Barring a major defect in the original build, which would usually be an early failure, you can assume wear has caused the failure. (rubber bladders are your enemy) That wear exists in both struts, so yes, the other should be near failure too.
Can you just replace one, definitely.
I feel that this statement is true, think of the mechanics/materials. Both are built the same and both have seen the same miles. Barring a major defect in the original build, which would usually be an early failure, you can assume wear has caused the failure. (rubber bladders are your enemy) That wear exists in both struts, so yes, the other should be near failure too.
Can you just replace one, definitely.
Had a tear in the rubber bag of one front strut assembly (Airmatic). While I was having it replaced the mechanic called and recommended I have them both changed out, because "if one goes there's good chance the other one is soon to follow".. (turns out to be nonsense with these airmatic struts). So i took the mechanics advice. I need to say that the shop that did the work is very highly regarded on this forum, and many other high end import auto forums. Google search had plenty of positive mentions and reviews on enough forums to cover several pages of google search results. Lambo's, Ferrari's etc...Ended up costing me upwards of $3k to have 2 new shock assembly's replaced and I also had new drive belt swapped out...The price didn't surprise me b/c i still own a 2002 CLK55 that I bought new in '01.. To have a cpl shocks replaced on a regular domestic car would cost a few hundred bucks on the high end so $3K to replace them on an AMG seemed to be about right.. However, it's not the price at all that i'm concerned about.. I posted pics of the brand of strut assembly's which is "Arnott". I also posted a pic of my invoice (blacked out the shops info). The invoice clearly states I purchased "strut is original strut assembly". So, not only did I end up with aftermarket replacement struts but they were refurbished ones..They charged me $991 for the refurbs which the general public can buy for $450 from Arnott brand new.. I know that an auto shop would pay drastically less than $450 for a new strut assembly and i don't even want to know they're cost for a refurb which they get $200 cores when they return the ones they took off . Am I correct to say they probably paid approx $350 for each strut assembly and received $200 each core they returned ??
If so, I payed $991 each for refurbished aftermarket strut assembly's which cost the auto shop $150 and claimed they sold me original strut assembly's.. I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated.. Please give me some advice as to what I should do, if anything.. Thanks..
If so, I payed $991 each for refurbished aftermarket strut assembly's which cost the auto shop $150 and claimed they sold me original strut assembly's.. I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated.. Please give me some advice as to what I should do, if anything.. Thanks..
Last edited by sthoms; 10-15-2014 at 12:34 PM.
10-15-2014, 12:29 PM
#30
Super Member
"if one goes there's good chance the other one is soon to follow".. (turns out to be nonsense with these airmatic struts)
I feel that this statement is true, think of the mechanics/materials. Both are built the same and both have seen the same miles. Barring a major defect in the original build, which would usually be an early failure, you can assume wear has caused the failure. (rubber bladders are your enemy) That wear exists in both struts, so yes, the other should be near failure too.
Can you just replace one, definitely.
I feel that this statement is true, think of the mechanics/materials. Both are built the same and both have seen the same miles. Barring a major defect in the original build, which would usually be an early failure, you can assume wear has caused the failure. (rubber bladders are your enemy) That wear exists in both struts, so yes, the other should be near failure too.
Can you just replace one, definitely.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 10-15-2014 at 12:41 PM.
10-15-2014, 12:53 PM
#31
Super Member
Slightly off the main subject, but I replaced my driver front about a year ago and just had to do my passenger front a few weeks ago. I have mutliple vehicles to drive, so I was willing to wait, of course, that wouldn't do me any good if it went out on me out of town!
10-15-2014, 12:57 PM
#32
Hello,
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
However, I agree with your statement about being treated honestly regardless of the car. My only point was that some cars command a higher rate than others and some mechanics cater to that type of clientele. If the OEM price for a shock is $900 and I got refurbish shocks that cost half that price, I'd go back and insist on OEM units.
10-16-2014, 09:02 AM
#34
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2007 E63
Hello,
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
You said, "I wanted to post this on here and hopefully get the advice of people that know allot more than I do before say which auto shop it is, just in case I'm wrong but I think a little simple math can show that I was cheated..."
Then, it is your moral obligation to name the shop, loud and clear, so other people with little knowledge about auto mechanics would not fall prey to these opportunists. Why protect someone who ripped you off?
Regarding Shawnoc2003's comment that "You might want to find a shop that doesn't work on Lambo's and Ferraris - just a whole different world". Your suggestion is simply ridiculous, you should be treated with honesty regardless of the brand of car you have, be it a Yugo or a Pagani Zonda, period.
AutoScope
White Rock
214-320-8280
9796 Ferguson Rd, Dallas, TX
Ask For Raffi
10-16-2014, 09:04 AM
#35
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2007 E63
10-16-2014, 09:50 AM
#36
I would definitely say you got ripped off.
First thing, what's theyre labor rate? It's supposed to be posted very visibly.
With that said, an MB dealership usually charges 1.0 hr labor to do a drivebelt, regardless of the engine, except for maybe the 55 where there are 2 belts.
If that's the case, this shop's labor rate is $123 an hour? (based on the labor for the belt). IF its less than that, then he's charging you more than 1.0 hr to do a drivebelt. clear sign of being taken advantage of.
As far as the Arnott's are concerned, he's definitely charging you MB OEM parts prices for parts that clearly are not. (pun not intended).
First thing, what's theyre labor rate? It's supposed to be posted very visibly.
With that said, an MB dealership usually charges 1.0 hr labor to do a drivebelt, regardless of the engine, except for maybe the 55 where there are 2 belts.
If that's the case, this shop's labor rate is $123 an hour? (based on the labor for the belt). IF its less than that, then he's charging you more than 1.0 hr to do a drivebelt. clear sign of being taken advantage of.
As far as the Arnott's are concerned, he's definitely charging you MB OEM parts prices for parts that clearly are not. (pun not intended).
10-16-2014, 10:06 AM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
His labor rates really make no sense because they end in odd penny amounts. Usually a shop has a whole dollar amount rate per hour and charges by tenths of an hour. That should end the labor rate calculations with change always being xxx.x0. It's like he charged tax on the labor rate before he put it on the ticket?
What information does the bottom of page 1 show or page 2?
What information does the bottom of page 1 show or page 2?
10-16-2014, 10:18 AM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
Also another reason to buy the Arnott struts yourself is that if they are defective you can't return them for the lifetime warranty because the shop bought them so you would have to go back there and they have to warranty them, if this is how they treat their customers could you imagine a warranty
10-16-2014, 03:47 PM
#39
Super Member
There is another Autoscope branch up in Plano too. My experience has been their work is very high quality but they charge more than the MB dealer down the street. I can't see any reason to pay more than dealer rates, so stopped using them.
In your case it's good news/bad news. The Arnott struts are IMHO actually a better product than the factory struts. You would not have saved any money at the dealer, and you would not have gotten a better product or repair. I guess you might feel a bit better about receiving factory new parts, but that's about it.
In my experience, a 100% markup on parts is pretty much normal for shops. Their gross margin is divided across both the parts and labor they sell. The only way to really save any money is to buy the parts yourself and either DIY or find a tech that works for cash on the side. In either case there are compromises in convenience, warranty, etc.
Not sure what an hour of labor at Autoscope costs these days. I'd guess about $150, local dealers are in that range.
In your case it's good news/bad news. The Arnott struts are IMHO actually a better product than the factory struts. You would not have saved any money at the dealer, and you would not have gotten a better product or repair. I guess you might feel a bit better about receiving factory new parts, but that's about it.
In my experience, a 100% markup on parts is pretty much normal for shops. Their gross margin is divided across both the parts and labor they sell. The only way to really save any money is to buy the parts yourself and either DIY or find a tech that works for cash on the side. In either case there are compromises in convenience, warranty, etc.
Not sure what an hour of labor at Autoscope costs these days. I'd guess about $150, local dealers are in that range.
Last edited by Shadow5501; 10-16-2014 at 03:49 PM.
10-16-2014, 04:55 PM
#40
Super Member
His labor rates really make no sense because they end in odd penny amounts. Usually a shop has a whole dollar amount rate per hour and charges by tenths of an hour. That should end the labor rate calculations with change always being xxx.x0. It's like he charged tax on the labor rate before he put it on the ticket?
What information does the bottom of page 1 show or page 2?
What information does the bottom of page 1 show or page 2?
You're not supposed to charge sales tax on labor wtf?!
10-16-2014, 05:01 PM
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm assuming that, based on service tickets I have seen, there is a total box on the bottom of the page. This is cut off by the picture. That is where your tax will be shown; on a separate line. If this is true, and the labor rates already include tax on the line item, then he could potentially be double charging the tax.
