Trunk ripped apart to fix power trunk - can't find wire break. Any help would be A+!
Have read many of the threads on here regarding pulling apart the left side of the trunk and finding a break in the 3 wires running from the trunk close/lock switch that break due to flexing over time.
I can't find a break in these, haven't pulled off all the wire ties but have spent 20 min looking.
Tested the switch w/ a micrometer in hundreths Ohms setting - no resistance until button pushed, then resistance. Don't know if this means the switch isn't faulty (electrical isn't my forte) - but thought I'd mention.
NOTE - the switch inside the car by the driver's side footwell will open/close the trunk.
I've concluded due to this the motor is fine but it's either the switch or a wire break (or something else?)
Any thoughts before I throw it all back together only to be right where I started?
Thanks much!
are you getting power at the motor connector when the button is pressed?
make sure you do this with the trunk at different heights to replicate it opening/closing
if you do, the switch should be fine.
to check the wiring, put the voltmeter on continuity and put one lead at the connector and the other end as far back as possible. wiggle the harness slowly to see if continuity goes away.
hope that helps.
are you getting power at the motor connector when the button is pressed?
make sure you do this with the trunk at different heights to replicate it opening/closing
if you do, the switch should be fine.
to check the wiring, put the voltmeter on continuity and put one lead at the connector and the other end as far back as possible. wiggle the harness slowly to see if continuity goes away.
hope that helps.
Don't have a continuity mode on this meter- will see how to do that but didn't realize that could be done on the outside of wire insulation. Thank you for the explanation!
Cheers
Turns out I did manage to find the cuts. All 3 trunk button wires cleanly severed, with 2 more cut through the insulation and a number of strands ready to fail any day.
I looked everywhere except for removing the tape right at the top where the plastic wire loom/protector begins, and sure enough it was cut right beneath there.
How nice to have working buttons again!
Cheers

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Mine was the same. It would open from the switch in the door but not at the trunk.
I don't remember how many wires are attached to the left hinge (a lot!) but the majority of mine were either broken, about to break, or previously (poorly) repaired.
I pulled all the electrical tape off from that harness to the floor. I cut each wire one at a time. Added new wire 2in longer for each wire. The reason for making them longer is they come out the back of the plastic hinge cover and get bent/broken making that bend going down. I hope having a bigger loop will not make it bend so sharpe going towards the floor.
Soldered and heat shrink on each splice. Yes that's twice per wire...which bites while sitting and leaning into the trunk.
I taped the harness and added a couple of zip ties to support it at the back part of the hinge.
I also had 2 koax wires for my satilite radio that were broken. I cut the bad area out of those and soldered/heat shrink and it works again too.
Too bad I didn't do pics but it's just wires....it would have been boring.
It does take time.

Last edited by tlambert; Dec 20, 2016 at 07:59 PM.
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As our cars age, so does the wiring. They tend to get brittle, and are prone to breaking if constant bending force is applied to them over and over.
But you all know this by now.
Part number for harness (with KeylessGo) is 2115404810. I purchased mine from: https://www.mercedesbenz.parts/oem-p...s-211540481098






