W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

E55 stage 3

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:30 AM
  #1  
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From: Tbilisi, Georgia
04 E55 w211
E55 stage 3

right, last night a newly built stage 3 E55 was tested.
the car arrived with 430whp dyno graph, safe to assume that ECU had been remapped.
the car got the following mods:
1.upper and lower pulleys blowing @ 15.5 psi
2. eurocharged HE
3. bosch 010 pump
4. custom built longtube 4:1 headers
5. 82mm TB

the car dynoed 496whp and 630wNm with 12.2 AFR.
is it just me or shouldn't the car have put more power to the wheels???

a cls55 was also tested, 13.5 boost and it put down 505whp and 730wNm.
why would this car net more power?

on the other hand, my car dynoed 444whp @5000 rpm in 4th gear with just a tune with AFR dipping to 10.8(dyno only went 250kph which is my 5000 rpm in fourth).
right now i have 77mm sc pulley blowing 13.5 psi. havent dyno tested but it feels and is lot stronger and faster.
over the next few weeks I am planning the following mods:
1. second HE
2. split cooling
3. tranny oil cooler
4. water spray on HE
5. CO2 spray on HE
6. crank pulley swap to give total of 16.5-17psi boost
7. custom built longtube headers
8. 82mm TB and larger intakes
9. weistec TCU spinning 7000
10. AEM meth kit
11. johnons cm30 ic pump

IAT should peak at 50 degrees celsius max, and AFR should be 11.8

what do you think i will put down to the wheels?
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:58 AM
  #2  
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W211 E55
Was the CLS done in 3rd or 4th and what was the weather like from one to the other?

With somewhat similar mods I put down 497whp and 600wtq
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:10 AM
  #3  
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weather was 4-5 degrees celsius, with dyno runs being done in 3rd gear, 10 minutes apart from each other.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:13 AM
  #4  
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W211 E55
I am assuming the cls mods are similar cause all you put was boost reading
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:31 AM
  #5  
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cls doesnt have 82 tb and crank pulley, but it has tcu tune that E doesnt have.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:34 AM
  #6  
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the rest is identical
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #7  
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Probably not enough cooling for 15.5lbs of boost
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:33 PM
  #8  
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I have 82mm throttle body, PLM headers, PLM heat exchanger, and only the smaller upper clutched pulley, and I made 496whp 507wtq.

You are low on both hp and a good bit low on torque.

Check air intake temperatures, you probably are running too hot and it's cutting back engine timing.

don't both with CM30 pump, as it's worse than Bosch 010.

For water spray, you could move the headlight washers so they spray on the heat exchanger. I'm surprised nobody has done it just yet (it could be done for free).
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 04:16 PM
  #9  
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+1 your IATs are likely out of control so you are leaving alot on the table. I run 16.5psi and even with trunk tank, HE, pump, and water/meth I still pull some timing.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:43 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by SPatykAMG
+1 your IATs are likely out of control so you are leaving alot on the table. I run 16.5psi and even with trunk tank, HE, pump, and water/meth I still pull some timing.
Agreed ^^^
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 01:18 AM
  #11  
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04 E55 w211
firstly, it not my car i am talking about, but a fellow racer. i am starting my build next week with the parts i put down above.
i also thought that IAT would be high and timing would be pulled, but much to my surprise, the AFR was 12,2 on high rpms, meaning timing was not pulled. and temps were fine too.

on the other hand, my car dynoed 444whp @5000 rpm in 4th gear with just a tune with AFR dipping to 10.8(dyno only went 250kph which is my 5000 rpm in fourth).
right now i have 77mm sc pulley blowing 13.5 psi. havent dyno tested but it feels and is lot stronger and faster.
over the next few weeks I am planning the following mods:
1. second HE
2. split cooling
3. tranny oil cooler
4. water spray on HE (already done from headlight spray)
5. CO2 spray on HE
6. crank pulley swap to give total of 16.5-17psi boost
7. custom built longtube headers
8. 82mm TB and larger intakes
9. weistec TCU spinning 7000
10. AEM meth kit
11.+tune for meth to push timing

considering my current car state, it being healthy and making lot more than expected, whats your guess i ll put down after these mods?

Last edited by demetaktak; Dec 4, 2014 at 02:15 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 08:44 AM
  #12  
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12.2 that's a little lean buddy AFR should be anywhere from 11.3 to 11.7.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:15 AM
  #13  
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From: SWFL
E55, E320 CDI , CLA250, Jag XJ Supersport
Originally Posted by demetaktak
firstly, it not my car i am talking about, but a fellow racer. i am starting my build next week with the parts i put down above.
i also thought that IAT would be high and timing would be pulled, but much to my surprise, the AFR was 12,2 on high rpms, meaning timing was not pulled. and temps were fine too.

on the other hand, my car dynoed 444whp @5000 rpm in 4th gear with just a tune with AFR dipping to 10.8(dyno only went 250kph which is my 5000 rpm in fourth).
right now i have 77mm sc pulley blowing 13.5 psi. havent dyno tested but it feels and is lot stronger and faster.
over the next few weeks I am planning the following mods:
1. second HE
2. split cooling
3. tranny oil cooler
4. water spray on HE (already done from headlight spray)
5. CO2 spray on HE
6. crank pulley swap to give total of 16.5-17psi boost
7. custom built longtube headers
8. 82mm TB and larger intakes
9. weistec TCU spinning 7000
10. AEM meth kit
11.+tune for meth to push timing

considering my current car state, it being healthy and making lot more than expected, whats your guess i ll put down after these mods?
Do you have headers now? I'd expect more than 13.5 boost with a 77mm pulley and stock headers. I'm getting the same boost with an 84mm pulley, belt wrap kit and stock exhaust.

If you have no exhaust mods, your belt may be slipping.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 01:56 PM
  #14  
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From: Tbilisi, Georgia
04 E55 w211
hm. wierd. mmy stock pulley was 88mm making 0.75 boost. with 10mm reduction in size, i was expectiong 0.9 bar and got 0,91 deriving from the formula found in other threads. wierd you making that much boost. if you have tcu upgrade that could explain it, my rpm goes to only 6550, if you spinning 7000, that would make sense.

i still got stock heafers for now.
i am really thinking i can go 570-580 whp with meth once i m done boostng and cooling.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #15  
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From: UK
E55K AMG
Originally Posted by demetaktak
right, last night a newly built stage 3 E55 was tested.
the car arrived with 430whp dyno graph, safe to assume that ECU had been remapped.
the car got the following mods:
1.upper and lower pulleys blowing @ 15.5 psi
2. eurocharged HE
3. bosch 010 pump
4. custom built longtube 4:1 headers
5. 82mm TB

the car dynoed 496whp and 630wNm with 12.2 AFR.
is it just me or shouldn't the car have put more power to the wheels???

a cls55 was also tested, 13.5 boost and it put down 505whp and 730wNm.
why would this car net more power?

on the other hand, my car dynoed 444whp @5000 rpm in 4th gear with just a tune with AFR dipping to 10.8(dyno only went 250kph which is my 5000 rpm in fourth).
right now i have 77mm sc pulley blowing 13.5 psi. havent dyno tested but it feels and is lot stronger and faster.
over the next few weeks I am planning the following mods:
1. second HE
2. split cooling
3. tranny oil cooler
4. water spray on HE
5. CO2 spray on HE
6. crank pulley swap to give total of 16.5-17psi boost
7. custom built longtube headers
8. 82mm TB and larger intakes
9. weistec TCU spinning 7000
10. AEM meth kit
11. johnons cm30 ic pump

IAT should peak at 50 degrees celsius max, and AFR should be 11.8

what do you think i will put down to the wheels?

Whats been done to the..........Fuel injectors, rail and pumps on this car?
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 12:37 AM
  #16  
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nothing
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by demetaktak
hm. wierd. mmy stock pulley was 88mm making 0.75 boost. with 10mm reduction in size, i was expectiong 0.9 bar and got 0,91 deriving from the formula found in other threads. wierd you making that much boost. if you have tcu upgrade that could explain it, my rpm goes to only 6550, if you spinning 7000, that would make sense.

i still got stock heafers for now.
i am really thinking i can go 570-580 whp with meth once i m done boostng and cooling.
I have EC ECU tune but kept the stock limiter. TCU is stock. I might be benefitting from the belt wrap kit
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 11:39 PM
  #18  
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maybe, but i m boosting exactly what i calculated to bbe boosting. i have deleted cats and resonator.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 12:05 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by demetaktak
maybe, but i m boosting exactly what i calculated to bbe boosting. i have deleted cats and resonator.
That explains a lot
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by demetaktak
hm. wierd. mmy stock pulley was 88mm making 0.75 boost. with 10mm reduction in size, i was expectiong 0.9 bar and got 0,91 deriving from the formula found in other threads. wierd you making that much boost. if you have tcu upgrade that could explain it, my rpm goes to only 6550, if you spinning 7000, that would make sense.

i still got stock heafers for now.
i am really thinking i can go 570-580 whp with meth once i m done boostng and cooling.

Have you seen anyone on here with max mods on this motor and supercharger combo (stock) with all the bolt on parts, make that much rear wheel horsepower? I haven't. Please point me to the threads..
NOT SLR related. - you're talking heads/cams/drysump/ etc. etc.

It looks like if you get the cooling absolutely perfect, and the boost just high enough before the supercharger is completely out of its efficiency range, you might make about 550 to the wheels.

Just my observation, not my experience.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 03svtkiller
12.2 that's a little lean buddy AFR should be anywhere from 11.3 to 11.7.

I feel the same way, but oddly, I see so many AFR's in the 13's and 12's around here, it blows my mind.


Originally Posted by JoeNobody
For water spray, you could move the headlight washers so they spray on the heat exchanger. I'm surprised nobody has done it just yet (it could be done for free).
I was thinking of this last night while I was removing everything off the front of the car to swap motors. The job looks so easy it hurts. I will probably do it and set it to make those spray automatically under boost using a Hobbes switch.

Last edited by 95ONE; Dec 7, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 04:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
I feel the same way, but oddly, I see so many AFR's in the 13's and 12's around here, it blows my mind.




I was thinking of this last night while I was removing everything off the front of the car to swap motors. The job looks so easy it hurts. I will probably do it and set it to make those spray automatically under boost using a Hobbes switch.
Post some photos after finished.

The only way it could be improved, is to spray out a mist instead of the jets the headlight washers use. But to change that would probably require installing a new spray nozzle, and then it's no longer a free mod (worse part of all!)
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 08:41 PM
  #23  
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Nozzle design seems simple to change. The choice would be based on pressure avail. I don't think the price would be much more than $50. Time and effort for someone who has to pull the front bumper might be a bit much.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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Headlights spray doesn't have enough pressure to mist well
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 01:24 AM
  #25  
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04 E55 w211
i would really beg to differ. i HAVE installed the headlight spray and it works fine.
of course i removed the OEM sprayers and used a simple silicone hose, "drilled" with 10 little sprinkles to spray the water. the pressure is more than enough and it cost me little over 10 bucks.
as to what goes for the effect, i tested it in cold weather, ambient being 10c, IAT was 28c, after spraying it brought it down to 22c in a few seconds.
i currently tested a CO2 spray on the wet IC, it literally froze the thing. cant wait to check it in action once i have it installed.

off the topic here, but what spark plugs do you use. i friend suggested that i use the cheapest copper ngk plugs, 2.3 usd for one, because they work the best. they are one step colder than stock. the trick is i have to change them in 3-4k miles like oil.
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