Head Bolts and ARP studs torque specs
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From: Orlando
1967 Pro Touring turbo LSX Camaro
There is no official torque spec for the ARP studs on this engine. You should be fine with 75-80ft-lbs using ARP lube on the threads, or 80-85ft-lbs using engine oil on the threads. I personally torqued a little higher but my block has thick iron Darton sleeves which are less prone to distortion under high clamping loads.
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E55K AMG
There is no official torque spec for the ARP studs on this engine. You should be fine with 75-80ft-lbs using ARP lube on the threads, or 80-85ft-lbs using engine oil on the threads. I personally torqued a little higher but my block has thick iron Darton sleeves which are less prone to distortion under high clamping loads.
thank you, 80ft-lbs sounds correct.
I am not taking the heads off, but I will remove one head bolt at a time and replace all x20 with an ARP stud.
Last edited by £ C43 £ AMG £; Dec 22, 2014 at 08:54 AM.
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From: SE MI
2005 Mercedes E55 AMG
The ARP spec for that fastener is three increments ending at 90ftlbs. I used 30-60-90. I also went back through after ~300 miles and retorqued everything. They did drop in torque so my retorque was necessary.
Make sure you are generous with the ARP lube on the top and bottom of the washers... if not, they will stick to the nut and you can experience a false reading
Make sure you are generous with the ARP lube on the top and bottom of the washers... if not, they will stick to the nut and you can experience a false reading
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From: Orlando
1967 Pro Touring turbo LSX Camaro
That spec is for the raw fastener, no? Unless its a recent change ARP didn't sell a kit for the 55k. I've been meaning to put one of my torque plates on a bare stock block and check the cylinders with a dial bore gauge to see how badly they distort with the studs at certain torque levels.
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From: UK
E55K AMG
That spec is for the raw fastener, no? Unless its a recent change ARP didn't sell a kit for the 55k. I've been meaning to put one of my torque plates on a bare stock block and check the cylinders with a dial bore gauge to see how badly they distort with the studs at certain torque levels.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=http:...cYXk-_E2s39W-A
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: SE MI
2005 Mercedes E55 AMG
That spec is for the raw fastener, no? Unless its a recent change ARP didn't sell a kit for the 55k. I've been meaning to put one of my torque plates on a bare stock block and check the cylinders with a dial bore gauge to see how badly they distort with the studs at certain torque levels.
I'd love the info if you get around to it!
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Thread Starter
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From: UK
E55K AMG
thank you, I was going to check my current bolts, but given the 4 step sequence all I can do is check for 30Nm,
I will be switching to ARP studs instead, changing one at a time .
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From: SoCal
2006 E55, Various other German and ‘Murican
That spec is for the raw fastener, no? Unless its a recent change ARP didn't sell a kit for the 55k. I've been meaning to put one of my torque plates on a bare stock block and check the cylinders with a dial bore gauge to see how badly they distort with the studs at certain torque levels.
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From: SoCal
2006 E55, Various other German and ‘Murican
Back at this step. No one said I was gonna win the race but I sure as **** finish.
I have the Nissan or whatever studs and nuts - have to order the HGs.
Since I have the angle and digital torque wrench I was thinking I would do the angle and see where the torque is to release.
I have the Nissan or whatever studs and nuts - have to order the HGs.
Since I have the angle and digital torque wrench I was thinking I would do the angle and see where the torque is to release.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: SoCal
2006 E55, Various other German and ‘Murican
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2005 e55 AMG
No but I do have a rather "different" way of torque procedures on my engines....weather it is right or wrong.
I will torque all studs to 75% of max in a heated garage and leave it there for the night. The next day I will sightly loosen each stud and make one continuous torque swing to 85lbs. Leave it there again and go back and check each one the next day
My theory is to let the head gaskets compress and relax before the max torque number. I have run 25lbs of boost and 150 hit of nitrous and making 950hp on my small bock ford engines and never had a gasket fail or leak doing it this way.
By the way I will be doing my Beehive spring swap with out pulling the engine. I just had the engine out last November and really just want the springs done so right now I am buying three different tools to compress the springs while in the car. The angles will be a little tricky.
A cam swap is possible but I don't trust anything I read from any venders so far. Race IQ seems to be more into the lumpty lump sound and VRP/Kleeman cam specs I know of no one using them.
I will torque all studs to 75% of max in a heated garage and leave it there for the night. The next day I will sightly loosen each stud and make one continuous torque swing to 85lbs. Leave it there again and go back and check each one the next day
My theory is to let the head gaskets compress and relax before the max torque number. I have run 25lbs of boost and 150 hit of nitrous and making 950hp on my small bock ford engines and never had a gasket fail or leak doing it this way.
By the way I will be doing my Beehive spring swap with out pulling the engine. I just had the engine out last November and really just want the springs done so right now I am buying three different tools to compress the springs while in the car. The angles will be a little tricky.
A cam swap is possible but I don't trust anything I read from any venders so far. Race IQ seems to be more into the lumpty lump sound and VRP/Kleeman cam specs I know of no one using them.
Last edited by SICAMG; Apr 25, 2020 at 05:34 PM.
