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I am having the original spring seats cut down on the base to allow the spring some more space in the installed height mentioned in this and the other thread. This will net a closed spring pressure closer to 90 than 120.
The seals can be removed and reinstalled once but I may get new ones just to be safe. Then I can finally get the heads on and move on to other fun stuff.
Big thanks to SBA for the help on parts. A favor is owed.
Getting on track here. Moving this summer so after 6 years on jack stands, it may be time to get my *** in gear on this car. (Let it be known I restored other cars, sold several, out a son through high school and all that comes with that- but no excuses! )
One head is on with ARP studs.
Other will go on soon and I’ll have to make another large order for hydraulic tappers, new bridge bolts, intake seals, and put the new bearings in the supercharger. There is a clear roadmap.
Issues of concern are now the rear tank plumbing, and the new fuel buckets with aluminum hats and the plumbing for that. Going to a return system.
Oh and cams. Springs worked out perfectly. Just under 90 pounds on the nose. Very small coil bind height. What cams? Anyone selling some non stock ones?
I have been thinking about and speaking to people about the spraying of water and meth.
Just to control the heat on a consistent basis even during daily driving. The little compressor really does seem a bit small. Add in a solid non clutched pulley and it seems prudent.
I bought an SS pipe intake years ago in prep. I have included pictures of how it would sit essentially and I’m thinking about the best places to put some pre supercharger nozzles.
Info suggests it can work well (thanks Sean) to put the nozzle in the snout. I also got to thinking about sending a small mist into the air before the Y.
NOT ALOT. Additionally from some of the data I have received from helpful members here pre/sc does not affect IAT much. That would make some sense if repeatable shows the SC itself simply affects the air temp so drastically, trying to cool the air before is basically useless. However high ambient temps do affect IAT, so....
Even though it will flow well, one could also state that the heavy metal nature of the pipes could become a heat soak. Which means I just plan on nozzles shooting a bit in them to remove any localized heat.
That’s interesting I’ll be watching to see what you come up with.
me too! Lol.
The wife is balking at not being able to go to Costco for gas so I may need to rethink the e85 framework and be able to switch back and forth easily with the piggyback systems +e85 sensor.
Posting up a pic for some identification - it’s the button that goes above the lifters. It does get a bit of wear it seems. This is 100k miles or so. I’d say you’d want to source these if you are working on an engine over 175k.
Posting up a pic for some identification - it’s the button that goes above the lifters. It does get a bit of wear it seems. This is 100k miles or so. I’d say you’d want to source these if you are working on an engine over 175k.
02-01-2020, 03:32 PM
