Seems like trying to get an original ecu file and working from that is a good bet.

Which OZ do you refer to?

 

Found this a couple pages down in google:


https://themercedesswapshop.com/?page_id=450

 

I'll send you a PM.

 

Drive shaft going in today with new Guibos as well as the correct bearing for the center support.

For info: the Center support bearing housing is fine - get it anywhere. The BEARING that goes in is sometimes wrong per posts here and elsewhere. Possibly because "AMG"

6006/32.

I got mine from France (123bearing - used them before) . Other parts houses were 8 weeks out.

 

Center support bearing seems like it wants to be lower than normal. New bushings through out. East coast engine mounts were a bit lower. Maybe thier trans mount is 10mm lower too? May need to shim that and shim the carrier housing to meet in the middle. Not a huge deal.



Eww dust. Need to blow that off.


Played around with the rear upper camber arms from Megan racing. Heavy and crude but they work. Properly adjustable but improperly drilled for the bigger e55 bolts

 

And these things will be hung up on the wall as another "aftermarket monkeys" example of people that should be flipping burgers and no where near engineering.

 

all of these aftermarket arms are garbage and do not work in the same orientation as the OEM designed arm which cannot be made generic. Megan Racing and the Malaysian sourced arms as you've seen are closer to OEM, but only work for non-airmatic as the would run into the airbags

 

Okay arms are in and new bolts as those 12 points are sometimes finicky.

Does anyone have info on the dual sided fuel level sensor schematic and resistance values?

Passenger side will have upgraded pumps and normal hat. Drivers side will be aluminum hat with supply and return holes. Need to recreate the two plugs on the original sendor piece and probably graft on the level sender assembly for the left side (driver)

Car already set up for return system. This is the last big hurdle to getting the car running.

 

Additional to the 6 pins that seem to be the two wires from each level sensor reostat + one tire that seems to go to ground points on the sender basket -

There is the three pins for the "Tank Pressure Sensor"

Has anyone spoofed this? This is an emissions control unless they were concerned about tank pressure otherwise, however the vent in the center I think is part of the evap system with a charcoal cannister in the back passenger well.

Reason:

Just putting pump and stock top hat on passenger side, routing two pumps (One way valve needed if they come on separately or if I make them do so) to driver side for entry and exit, Have aluminum hat for that - just need to proper wire tank level and spoof tank pressure.

 

When I owned a 928GTS I used a company called ANDIAL and also 928 International,

 

Some fits and starts, going slowly (still) but I do see some light at the end of this very long tunnel.

Fueling needs to be really focused on as most other stuff is details I can research and solve in most cases.

Not sure all of this will make sense, but: Return system in place. Two lines going to front of car, looped rails, FPR in engine bay.

Driver side has the aluminum hat for in/out and both sides level wiring.

Passenger side has to walbro 450lph pumps.

The will feed into single out. Single in/return will get the Venturi pump to draw from driver saddle into passenger side pump baskets.

I have designed a float carrier for driver side level sensor and 3d printed it. Need more detail on it to hold fuel level sensor.

Tank pressure sensor will just sit there I think with a fitting to the hat. Unless the loom plug allows it to sit lower.

Queations will be:

Better to instead put Venturi pump on pressure side bleeding the large fuel flow? Plenty of flow, may even help. If it sits on return side may be a restriction and increase base pressure (don't want)

Need to find if pumps both run or run sequentially so I can put check valve in T.

Flow will be large. Probably will heat fuel a bit. Pulled for 650 and will run e85 so need it for higher power but idle want be tricky. Fuel cooling is iffy, and really don't want to go down the rabbit hole of brushless and PWM flow. Just want to get car done and drive it for first time in... a decade? Longer?

 

Obviously a very loose mockup so I can imagine this working.

 

I don't have an answer for you, other than to say that I am running a return system in my car, but the plumbing at the tank is a completely different animal than what you have (W211 vs R193). The return line is definitely the way to go to ensure fuel flow. Also, I added my feed to the fuel rail to be the center of the "U", under the throttle body, welding up the original feed point. This eliminated the low pressure point at the #8 injector. I have the two ends of the rail connected together (like a loop), and then the return goes back to the regulator from there. I have run similarly setup systems in many cars of the the years with a 100% success rate. I went with an SX regulator (think SX has been bought out), as it will hold pressure when the pump is off.

 

Some iteration pics on the last few steps of this interminable project of now over 10 years. Yeah, you can take shots.

So I need this hat to work and that means a float on the drivers side that will match the ohms on the passenger side.

Also proper planning for routing of the lines that will leave the jet pump working.

 

Been wondering how you and the project has been coming along. Glad to see you still working on it.

 

.

 

And I got one of these. You guys may like this.

 

Everything looks great !! Craftsmanship is fantastic for sure !!
Also I had the same issue with the controll arms and not being able to use the factory bolts so I said screw it and sent them back !
This last picture with the mountains and road....that road looks VERY appealing.

 

Printing version... 7?