I made my own intake with carbonio inlet tubes and custom piping, I can't speak for other companies products. The main purpose of that conversation was to point out how stupid it sounded that an upper pulley only gives 9hp as stated by a forum member...

 

I see your intake very similar to needswings, not 10-15hp.
As far as financemike he actually did before and after dynos so he can actually speak from his experience.

 

That can be a he said, she said until that specific setup is dyno proven, I'm not going to argue with that I know its not a crazy HP upgrade. As for financemike claim, sorry I don't believe that. Either something wrong with the pulley or different type of pulley thats very hard to believe that low of numbers doesn't make sense.

 

These mods ha e been discussed for weeks at a time over years. No intake is worth 10-15 hp. The stock is that good. This isn't like other cars. You can't swap tubes gain 20. Can't delete cats gain 20. There is plenty of power left in there.I have done a lot of research. I have spent over the last year before I was a member and since I got my car 100's of hrs like 400+. Why? Don't know trying to find what really works. It's interesting to me. The 84mm sc pulley is a baby pulley. Worth 20 hp max. They say it the same as a 168 crank. Not true. As a matter of fact, power/ heat producing I would rank the Kleeman 168 crank pulley the number 1 pulley for the 113k engine. This was an early design and really made the car a legend. That being said a 180 crank will produce more hp but will produce a lot of heat. You can't run the stock cooling, you have to split do a new heatexchanger and do a trunk tank or look into meth or KC. If you don't a smaller pulley will walk u. Guys that have max cooling,injectors tb headers etc run 195mm cranks and more. There is a lot on tap if you can spend the money.

 

I see where your coming from. For the intake. It's not just about HP, but if the engine can breath faster and more freely your helping yout engine and you will boost a little faster. Stock intake is not sufficient. I've been rebuilding race engines for rotary for over 10 years and anything you can do to help an engine breath is worth it, that's a proven fact. Now as far as the pulleys and cranks I can't say much about because I've been working on turbo engines all my life and still learning about supercharged engines, but then it goes back to basics and using common sense in mechanics. But hey to each their own in what they want to believe works and doesn't work, is worth it and isn't worth it. I'm going to continue to mod my car as most people do

 

The stock intake was good enough for the fastest non nos E55 10.50@132 so IMO it is very good

 

Well ya because they probably spent over 10,000 on mods and decided not to do an intake. I still haven't seen a heavily model vehicle without a custom intake, why wouldn't you is the question?!

 

I suggest you read up, the stock intake is good

The most expensive mod for this car is long tube headers as for bolt ons

 

Well than let me rephrase, for my likings stock intake is no good, not on a high performance vehicle, but that's just my liking to my style of modifications. To each their own, we can go back and forth about this for years and it's going to get no where. I can only speak truly from my experiences and from working on turbo vehicles for many years, stock intake is garbage. One thing I will say these performance engines had millions of dollars of R&D from mercedes and that's why they are effective, but not as effective as a performance intake. I still go back to my roots.

 

Since you brought it up, I went with mids, at the direction of EC as they claimed there was a torque drop on the long tubes. I never dug around to find out for myself, but I figured I'd keep as much torque as possible.

Now, what's that worth, I have no idea. But there's been a huge gain in the seat of the pants-o-meter.

 

The renntech intake made decent power I believe (but not $1K+ power)

 

Please do my research before posting? Really? I've contributed to this board much longer than you have.

Here's the deal. All parts and tunes were purchased from Eurocharged, all installations done by RageTek, all dyno runs done on the same dyno during the same two month span with basically the same humidity and temperature. So any variables are out the window.

100% stock motor/tune with a CM30 pump and HE
411whp and 454wtq

ECU Dyno Tune by EC
444whp and 481wtq

added SC Pulley with Box Tune
451whp and 502wtq

added Kleemann headers with Box Tune
478whp and 515wtq

same mods with custom dyno tune
491whp and 525wtq

removed SC pulley with dyno tune
482whp and 510wtq


So there you have it.. I've posted various dyno graphs over the past 4 years to go along with these numbers. I've attended dyno days with some of the nastiest 55k's you'll ever see.

Don't come across like a veteran until you can bring more substance than a copy and paste from a vendors website.

By the way, nice jacket and pants...

 

I'm trying to figure out why I am 40WHP less with LT's and full cooling. I'm on stock pulleys with a custom dyno tune.

 

Do you have before and afters on the same dyno? All my runs were on the same dynojet.

All dynos read differently. That's why I made sure all runs were on the same unit during the same time of the year.

If you search around, "most" sc pulley and tunes will net about 450whp. Sure there might be a single much higher number, but that motor was built on a Wednesday.

 

I don't have a before. I should of but didn't want to pay for a "base-line". I wish I had. It is a mustang dyno. 4th gear pull.

 

Mustang and dyno dynamics dyno should be done in 3rd gear

 

I'm not actually sure why I said what gear they did the pull in. I just thought it was. No idea what gear actually . They do a lot of E55's so I am sure they got the right gear

 

Right, and also Mustang dynos are more conservative than dynojets. Mustangs measure tq on a force loaded drum, where the dynojets measure tq on a free wheeling lightly loaded drum.

I've been told to get an "approximate" conversation from a Mustang to a dynojet, you can multiple your Mustang number by 1.12 to 1.15 to get the dynojet numbers.

Either way, its just a tool to gauge your progress. Which ever one you have available, stick with it and go from there.

 

FM is correct, it's to measure gains

 

you have a pretty strong car w/482 whp on just headers and tune

i dynoed 507 whp on that same ragetek dyno w/ 172m crank pulley and headers on a EC dyno day and then 520whp with 180m pulley

 

She ran well on the dyno but at the track the best I could manage was 11.9 @119mph

There were guys running 12 scratch and even 11.9s stock at PBIR in E55s. The CLS seems to always be a few clicks behind.

 

I'm going to start a betting pool to see how many times you mention this.

 

Once again I will add, the dude was sick to his stomach after running an aftermarket supercharger pulley that let go after 2 to 4 years (was on the car before he bought it) causing a couple of thousands in repairs. But loving your car means spending over $2000 on plastic intake tubes with carbon fiber overlay.

Hey 10 year rotary engined veteran, two things:
1. Stock supercharger pulleys also lets go, mine did and shot a bearing out like a bullet toward my radiator, only stopped by the shrouds
2. MB probably spent a 100 times more dollars developing the stock pulley and stock intake than ANY aftermarket parts maker. Have you never wondered why a full aluminum pulley costs less than half of the plastic stock crap?

 

I will glady take your CLS55 off your hands

 

Like I said before, I've been working on turbo vehicles all my life and I'm just suprised at how these break down. I'm no master mechanic and I don't know it all I'll say that, but I'm very saavy with cars. And your right of course the factory spends tons of money more than any small business can afford to do in research. I currently work for a big automotive corporation and trust me I know what goes into it. Just putting in my 2 cents here...