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2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
W211 E55 Motor Rebuild
A few members here know of my plight with my E55 and how it was steadily decreasing in power over a 2 or 3 month period. By the time I took her off the road she was running on less than 50% power. A compression test showed what appeared to be serious problems (50, 50, 120, 90, 40, 30, 130 and 150) although the idling was relatively smooth and did not reflect this. Initially I was considering a replacement motor but considering the high prices in Australia (even importing one) we decided to pull her out and take a closer look. As it turned out she was in reasonable condition so rebuilding seems the best option. Not being a mechanic myself I do rely on the opinions and advice from the many knowledgeable members in this forum...
The one thing that does concern me is the Alusil paste treatment where the cylinders are lined with silicon/aluminium on the M113k? The engineering shop doing the work seem pretty confident and knowledgeable about it but I want to make sure they won't run into issues. And from what I have heard it is a difficult process and as this is my daily driver I need the car back on the road ASAP with no unforeseen delays.
For a little background leading up to the engine coming out there is a separate thread started around 6 weeks ago called "Finally determined my supercharger is shot" although the title could be misleading as it turned out to be apparently just the motor. I say "apparently" as I'm still not 100% sure that the supercharger isn't damaged. When the motor was stripped down they found fine red sand/grit inside. My best guess is this entered the motor through the dodgy (non-genuine and in the car when I bought it) seal that attaches between the throttle body and supercharger. The town I lived in was an iron ore mining town full of red dirt. If this is what happened then all this dirt would have travelled through the sc also. This does make me wonder about its condition although the shop seems to think it's fine. For the 6-8 weeks prior to coming off the road there was a scratchy type noise coming from the top/front of the motor/supercharger which only lasted a few minutes when the car was started from cold. Wasn't noticeable at all once warmed up. In retrospect that sound could have been grit near the front of the sc?
Also the fuel pump was shot and the symptoms of running lean are in line with what I experienced.
At any rate I have been spending money leading up to the rebuild on various other parts aside from the motor itself. Most of the front suspension is currently being replaced together with some other cosmetic changes. Also a new fuel pump and sender are on the way together with new plugs and injectors.
I'd be keen to hear if anyone has advice on is the Alusil silicone treatment inside the motor or any other advice or comments they'd like to share. I've included the parts list together with some pics of the motor in its current condition.
------------------
Quantity Part Description
1. 1 112-997-02-46 Rear Main Seal
2. 1 023-997-84-47 Timing Case to Crank Seal
3. 1 112-016-00-00 Dip Stick Tube Seal
4. 1 112-184-02-80 Cap on Timing Case Seal
5. 1 271-141-12-80 Throttle Body to Intercooler Gasket
6. 1 112-141-13-80 E.G.A. to Intake Gasket
7. 1 113-098-01-80 Charge Air Distribution Line Gasket Left
8. 1 113-098-00-80 Charge Air Distribution Line Gasket Right
9. 1 112-184-00-61 Oil Filter Housing Seal
10. 1 112-184-02-61 Oil Filter Housing Seal
11. 1 389-267-00-80 Oil Filter Housing Seal
12. 1 112-203-00-76 Thermostat Gasket
13. 9 000000-001811 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
14. 1 113-990-04-22 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
15. 7 000000-001810 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
16. 3 002-990-48-22 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
17. 6 910143-008018 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
18. 1 910143-008017 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
19. 2 352-990-46-01 Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts
20. 1 910143-006001 Oil Pump Bracing Bolt
21. 4 112-990-00-14 Oil Spray Bolt
22. 2 000000-004321 Timing Case Bolt
23. 5 000000-001432 Timing Case Bolt
24. 1 000000-001433 Timing Case Bolt
25. 20 112-990-02-12 Head Bolts
26. 4 910105-008019 Head Bolts
27. 4 910143-008003 Head Bolts
28. 8 007-990-51-04 Flywheel Bolts
29. 1 155-050-00-03 Crank Gear
30. 8 113-030-03-60 Conrod Bearings
31. 16 WA-113-038-01-71 Conrod Bolts
32. 8 113-030-12-24 Standard Size Piston Ring Kits
33. 1 113-050-01-05 Idler Gear
34. 1 910143-010003 Idler Gear Bolt
35. 1 003-997-68-94 Timing Chain
36. 24 612-050-00-58 Valve Stem Seals
37. 4 113-053-03-29 Valve Guides
38. 1 113-016-04-20 Left Head Gasket
39. 1 113-016-05-20 Right Head Gasket
40. 1 003-997-88-94 Oil Pump Chain
41. 1 003-989-98-20-10 Sealant
42. 2 113-141-09-80 Supercharger Intake Gaskets
43. 1 112-050-08-11 Chain Tensioner
44. 1 550CC injectors (Set of 8) and harness
45. 1 NGK colder plugs ( Set of 16)
46. 1 Fuel sender unit E55
47. 1 Fuel pump unit E55
48. 1 Bosch 010 pump
49. 2 Valve cover gaskets
50. 1 OEM crank bolt
51. 1 Crank seal
52. 2 Surge tank gasket
53. 5 MAIN CRANK BEARINGS x 5 [to add]
54. 1 INJECTOR SEAL SET [inc with injectors]
55. 1 SUPERCHARGER INTAKE GASKET
56. 8 EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKETS x 8
57. 1 WATERPUMP GASKET**[sold with pump]
58. 1 OIL FILTER
59. 1 CRANK POSITION SENSOR
Last edited by TheTherapist; 03-03-2015 at 07:03 PM.
There is a Kolbenschmidt document that you can find on the internet- reconditioning alusil motors or something to that effect. I have a copy if you are unable to find it. It details the exact procedure and has some specific applications. I had it because there is information specific for the Porsche 928.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by Punisher10mm
There is a Kolbenschmidt document that you can find on the internet- reconditioning alusil motors or something to that effect. I have a copy if you are unable to find it. It details the exact procedure and has some specific applications. I had it because there is information specific for the Porsche 928.
Just to start this off with facts, the alusil motor is the entire block. It is hypereuretic, which is (iirc) 14 percent or more silicon .
When the block is poured, it's all one piece. There are no sleeves.
The final stage of honing the bore is the trick - it etches the aluminum away chemically, leaving only the crystal structure of silicon for the (and this is important) ferrous coated oiston to ride up and down on.
If you have no fingernail catching scratches in those bores, you can relap with the paste and run new rings.
Again, if this was too long for the millennial generation - alusil is not a coating or a sleeve.(they once had alusil sleeves as repair pieces)
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by BC928
Just to start this off with facts, the alusil motor is the entire block. It is hypereuretic, which is (iirc) 14 percent or more silicon .
When the block is poured, it's all one piece. There are no sleeves.
The final stage of honing the bore is the trick - it etches the aluminum away chemically, leaving only the crystal structure of silicon for the (and this is important) ferrous coated oiston to ride up and down on.
If you have no fingernail catching scratches in those bores, you can relap with the paste and run new rings.
Again, if this was too long for the millennial generation - alusil is not a coating or a sleeve.(they once had alusil sleeves as repair pieces)
Thanks for the tips BC. So just to clarify so long as the scratches inside the cylinder are no deeper than superficial then alusil paste can be used to repair?
I will be going past the shop today and confirm the depth of the etching.
Correct. The idea is that with the etching/lapping with the felt pads and sunnen paste, you don't materially change the dimensions of the bore, so no need to change ring size or piston size.
You simply make it so the new rings can seat.
I would get that crank sonically cleaned so there isn't any crap in it.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by Elhonaz
Its a big project! Hope to see her running again soon! GL!
How many miles BTW?
She just hit 200,000km (124,000miles).
Fingers crossed there wont be any delays. I went past the shop today and am feeling pretty confident with their abilities. He's been there for 30 years and comes recommended. Hasn't done Alusil before but has been considering buying the parts/tools needed as he does work for the local benz dealership and my motor coming in gave him the excuse to buy them. He does know other engineers who work with aluminium motors and has discussed this rebuild with them. I checked out the cylinder bores and etching was indeed superficial with assurances they were all well within tolerances.
He's pretty certain the motor will be good to go within 2 weeks of receiving the parts then back to the mechanics to put her back together which should only take a couple of days - that's the plan anyway.
So the shop can give me a full warranty they are all OEM parts going in. Prices in Australia are crazy inflated so Shardul has helped by sourcing and sending from the U.S.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 03-03-2015 at 11:37 AM.
Like I told you on the phone Glen, it might be possible and the shop might even be good at it but the cost of labor and parts and the timeframe is something to consider. Buying a long block or a short block and installing that is WAY easier. It'll get you back on the road faster and it is cheaper, without a doubt, even in Australian prices. With the prices you told me they quoted you I think it's very risky.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by e500slr
Like I told you on the phone Glen, it might be possible and the shop might even be good at it but the cost of labor and parts and the timeframe is something to consider. Buying a long block or a short block and installing that is WAY easier. It'll get you back on the road faster and it is cheaper, without a doubt, even in Australian prices. With the prices you told me they quoted you I think it's very risky.
Did you call the wrecker who has the long block?
Hey Sam that motor has gone and getting one from the U.S. will cost around $8000 landed with a 3 month wait. The motor parts are costing me a little less than that and that's including new injectors, plugs, ic pump, fuel pump and sender. Also with a motor from os there's warranty issues if anything goes wrong. I know labor is going to cost me but that's the premium I'll be paying to have a good reliable motor with many years ahead.
Last edited by TheTherapist; 03-03-2015 at 07:08 PM.
Hey Sam that motor has gone and getting one from the U.S. will cost around $8000 landed with a 3 month wait. The motor parts are costing me less and that's including new injectors, plugs, ic pump, fuel pump and sender. Plus with a motor from os there's warranty issues if anything goes wrong. I know labor is going to cost me but that's the premium I'll be paying to have a good reliable motor with many years ahead.
Damn that sucks. They had it for a while and he went down in price alot too. He would've taken 6-7k for the long block, which you don't even need as you already have heads. That engine had done only 70000 kms so around 39000 miles.
Oh well. I'm still waiting to get the motor I have tested. Been really busy and so has the workshop. These things are rare though. I sold the cluster for $1000 the other day.
03-02-2015, 06:56 PM
the other day.
