W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

How to remove E55 engine heads?

Old Apr 19, 2015 | 08:27 AM
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How to remove E55 engine heads?

I'm trying to remove the heads off an E55 engine. I took out all the head bolts but the timing chain is holding the head on. How do I get the timing chain off?
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
All the info is in ASRA - you got your copy working Sam?

If not I have attached full instructions...
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File Type: pdf
heads.pdf (2.49 MB, 1049 views)
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheTherapist
All the info is in ASRA - you got your copy working Sam?

If not I have attached full instructions...
I got the EPC working, the WIS/ASRA says it's working but the database seems empty. I'm tried to update it several times with the files I have but the database is still empty. EPC works though.

Engine is not turning. That's why I'm taking it apart to see what's wrong. I can't turn it like the instructions say. Is there another way to take off the timing chain?

Last edited by e500slr; Apr 19, 2015 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Grinding wheel.....

I am tackling this on my spare motor this week and will let you know what I find. Big socket if I remember correctly to get the cam gear off then it will be clear.
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 9mil
Grinding wheel.....

I am tackling this on my spare motor this week and will let you know what I find. Big socket if I remember correctly to get the cam gear off then it will be clear.
I got the cam gear off but the chain has to come off for the head to come off. The cam gear is making the head stuck and that's because of the damn chain. I don't want to get my hammer out and start *******g **** up even though I'm getting agitated now. Should I take a grinding wheel to it?
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 12:00 AM
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Pull the chain tensioner. 24mm (I think) socket behind the alternator on the passenger side of the engine. Once the tensioner is removed, the passenger cam gear can come off of the cam. Then fish the cam gear out of the head pocket, let the chain drop, proceed to the driver side and pull the cam with the gear.

You will still need to remove the oil filter housing if you want to lift the driver side head off, or remove the front cover altogether.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 02:30 AM
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Get the tools that lock the cams in place before removing the cam gears. You'll need them to re-install anyways, so if you lock the cams first, the crankshaft will already be in the correct position , making the re-installation process easier.

Also , the bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam are a 1 time use TTY fastener. Don't re-use those bolts!
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rockthemullet
Pull the chain tensioner. 24mm (I think) socket behind the alternator on the passenger side of the engine. Once the tensioner is removed, the passenger cam gear can come off of the cam. Then fish the cam gear out of the head pocket, let the chain drop, proceed to the driver side and pull the cam with the gear.

You will still need to remove the oil filter housing if you want to lift the driver side head off, or remove the front cover altogether.
What he said. I don't remember the exact size but it's the same as the crank pulley bolt size. 27?

You can remove/install the heads with the oil filter housing in place. It's a pain but can be done.
Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
Get the tools that lock the cams in place before removing the cam gears. You'll need them to re-install anyways, so if you lock the cams first, the crankshaft will already be in the correct position , making the re-installation process easier.

Also , the bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam are a 1 time use TTY fastener. Don't re-use those bolts!
Yea those tools come in handy and if you do reuse the bolts get ready to redo what you're doing now and replace a valve or 2 lol. You should get ARP head bolts since you are already in there but if you decide you want to go with stock for some odd reason I have a set I can sell cheap
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:52 PM
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The odds of this thread being started as I'm about to remove my heads is crazy. I'm tearing into it this week. lol

Can I leave the timing chain cover on while I remove the heads? I have done the camshafts 5 times now on a M113 but never the heads. Biggest fear is that the chain will drop and skip a tooth. I don't want to pull the engine.....
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EREBUS
The odds of this thread being started as I'm about to remove my heads is crazy. I'm tearing into it this week. lol

Can I leave the timing chain cover on while I remove the heads? I have done the camshafts 5 times now on a M113 but never the heads. Biggest fear is that the chain will drop and skip a tooth. I don't want to pull the engine.....
Yes you can leave the cover on. I've done it countless times. You should zip tie the chain to the sprocket. That way it won't skip. Even if it does manage to skip. You set the crank to 40 and use the timing tools to get it right. You don't have to pull the motor. I always use the tools to set timing even if I'm sure nothing changed. Better to be safe than sorry
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 01:58 PM
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Yes you can leave the front cover on. And the chain skipping a tooth is of no consequence. Just lock the cams first, and mark the balancer in relation to the cover before loosening the tensioner bolt. The line on the balancer should line up with a reference point on the cover but mark it with a yellow paint pen anyways.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Yes you can leave the cover on. I've done it countless times. You should zip tie the chain to the sprocket. That way it won't skip. Even if it does manage to skip. You set the crank to 40 and use the timing tools to get it right. You don't have to pull the motor. I always use the tools to set timing even if I'm sure nothing changed. Better to be safe than sorry
Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
Yes you can leave the front cover on. And the chain skipping a tooth is of no consequence. Just lock the cams first, and mark the balancer in relation to the cover before loosening the tensioner bolt. The line on the balancer should line up with a reference point on the cover but mark it with a yellow paint pen anyways.
Thank you. You guys rock!
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EREBUS
The odds of this thread being started as I'm about to remove my heads is crazy. I'm tearing into it this week. lol

Can I leave the timing chain cover on while I remove the heads? I have done the camshafts 5 times now on a M113 but never the heads. Biggest fear is that the chain will drop and skip a tooth. I don't want to pull the engine.....
The back side of the front cover has a boss that prevents the chain from losing its place on the crankshaft timing sprocket. This is also the boss that the chain hits when the tension spring is fatigued.

Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Yes you can leave the cover on. I've done it countless times. You should zip tie the chain to the sprocket. That way it won't skip. Even if it does manage to skip. You set the crank to 40 and use the timing tools to get it right. You don't have to pull the motor. I always use the tools to set timing even if I'm sure nothing changed. Better to be safe than sorry
Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
Yes you can leave the front cover on. And the chain skipping a tooth is of no consequence. Just lock the cams first, and mark the balancer in relation to the cover before loosening the tensioner bolt. The line on the balancer should line up with a reference point on the cover but mark it with a yellow paint pen anyways.
If you zip the chain to the sprocket, I'm not sure you can lift the heads off... at least I've never tried it that way. Like Ahmad and Chris are stating, just align everything with the locking tool first and you won't have to worry about it. This motor is pretty easy to time... you should try a 4V Modular (4 chains).
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rockthemullet
The back side of the front cover has a boss that prevents the chain from losing its place on the crankshaft timing sprocket. This is also the boss that the chain hits when the tension spring is fatigued.





If you zip the chain to the sprocket, I'm not sure you can lift the heads off... at least I've never tried it that way. Like Ahmad and Chris are stating, just align everything with the locking tool first and you won't have to worry about it. This motor is pretty easy to time... you should try a 4V Modular (4 chains).
Yup exactly.

You can. I've done it that way a bunch of times. Make it easier going back together too since you pretty much have the chain on the sprocket already "timed". I just do a couple rotations by hand to make sure the cams tools fall back in and you're good to go (obviously cut the zip ties off before rotating the motor for any newbs reading this in the future so you don't blame me for a zip tie in your motor). Tricks of the trade.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rockthemullet
The back side of the front cover has a boss that prevents the chain from losing its place on the crankshaft timing sprocket.
thank God.

Originally Posted by rockthemullet
This motor is pretty easy to time... you should try a 4V Modular (4 chains).
uh, no thanks. lol


Going to stop drinking once I get to the heads. Not going to take any chances this time. lol

Last edited by EREBUS; Apr 20, 2015 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:29 AM
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OK, so I took off the bolt on the side of the block next to the alternator and that loosened the chain but only on the alternator side of the engine. How do I do the driver's side, there's no similar bolt on the other side?

Also, does the chain and sprocket position matter considering I'm tearing this motor apart completely? Wouldn't timing have to be done later anyway if someone buys it or I end up using it? So can I just take the chain off?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by e500slr
OK, so I took off the bolt on the side of the block next to the alternator and that loosened the chain but only on the alternator side of the engine. How do I do the driver's side, there's no similar bolt on the other side?

Also, does the chain and sprocket position matter considering I'm tearing this motor apart completely? Wouldn't timing have to be done later anyway if someone buys it or I end up using it? So can I just take the chain off?
That's the only timing chain tensioner. There's a gear between the two cam sprockets that spins freely.

If you're tearing down completely I wouldn't worry about it. Usually I just zip tire the chain to the sprockets but in the end it doesn't really matter. Need to time it again
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
That's the only timing chain tensioner. There's a gear between the two cam sprockets that spins freely.

If you're tearing down completely I wouldn't worry about it. Usually I just zip tire the chain to the sprockets but in the end it doesn't really matter. Need to time it again
So why hasn't the other chain gone lose like this one?

By the way if I zip tie the sprocket to the chain, how will head come off?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by e500slr
So why hasn't the other chain gone lose like this one?

By the way if I zip tie the sprocket to the chain, how will head come off?
Are your cams still in? If so that's why.

Same way it would come off if you didn't zip tie it. You have to umbolt the sprocket from the cam. If it's easier for you just don't zip tie it
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Are your cams still in? If so that's why.

Same way it would come off if you didn't zip tie it. You have to umbolt the sprocket from the cam. If it's easier for you just don't zip tie it
The sprocket is unbolted from the cam but the sprocket is too big to fit in the hole in the head. If the chain comes off then the sprocket just comes out from the top.

How come the chain on the other side is still stiff?
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by e500slr
The sprocket is unbolted from the cam but the sprocket is too big to fit in the hole in the head. If the chain comes off then the sprocket just comes out from the top.

How come the chain on the other side is still stiff?
Bro, just download Kleemann's camshaft install directions. It will show you how to remove the camshafts and sprockets.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by e500slr
The sprocket is unbolted from the cam but the sprocket is too big to fit in the hole in the head. If the chain comes off then the sprocket just comes out from the top.

How come the chain on the other side is still stiff?
Just do it your way. I'm telling you it fits through the hole
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 07:09 PM
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anyone have the loosing sequence for the heads?
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