JoeNobody

Do you have fuel leaking or a fuel smell? If so let the dealer replace everything free of charge

Mackhack

Why don't you go through the dealership and don't fork up the money?

Max.H

Its not leaking from what I can tell, The fuel smell is that all the time? Or only when filling up gas at the gas station?

Ruthle55

Why would you pay $1100 for stock pumps? Why not toss in some aftermarket walbro pumps or something. I paid like $190 for 2 aem pumps.

Max.H

Well, thats how much they cost. Im not thrilled about it. But, its been almost 60k miles on my current pumps and filters. So, Its time to change the entire setup.

I hate it. Its a dumb setup to where you gotta switch pumps. So, what do you suggest? Ive seen the aem pumps they look like black walbros. But you think 2 255 gph is enough? What are the stock pumps rated at? The stock psi is really high. Lots of questions. not sure what my options are.

What do you do about the filters? Ive heard of guys putting line filters. but, a paper element is always better then a mesh filter.

Mackhack

Only after a full fill up. Once it goes down a bit the smell is gone. Fill up, drive home, remove back seat, remove both covers with an M8 socket and see if you can see the leaked fuel. Check out my pictures in this or the other thread about this problem. I had lakes on the driver side sender unit.

sexyxe

Mine got to the point of always smelling, because the filter had started to constantly pool fuel. As mackhack has said, take a look. Is a five min job to check. If you're in the US, why not go to the dealer and they'll sort you out?

Ruthle55

Twin 320lph will flow more than enough. More than you will ever need. http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=pro...p-offset-inlet

Or go with some aeromotive pumps. Issue with some of these pumps, is that you WILL need to make them fit the basket. Either with some orings, or trimming the basket. If you're handy, and want to save yourself $800, its the best option.

Can't find what the stock pumps flow, but trust me. It's either the same, or less than the aeromotive/AEM pumps. Then again, I haven't seen someone actually max the fuel pumps while researching. Most of the switches have been done for e85 friendly pumps.

Max.H

Right gentlemen, Ive checked on a few occasions and no leaks so it seems. No puddling. Ive seen this before all looked dry. I did not however check the pins to see if were burnt. Forgot to check that.

I can see the dealer replacing one time, but every 60 miles?

Ive had my pumps and fuel sender replaced under warranty the first time this was like 5-6 years ago and about 60k miles maybe a little more. So, I figure its time to replace them. Anyone know how long it takes to replace the pumps and filters on a DIY?

This doesn't seem like back breaking work, Anyone know?

Mackhack

Asking this on a side note: is there an interval or schedule for the pumps and filters to replace let's say every 100k miles?

I never heard from other car manufacturers or drivers of other makes that they would regularly replace them.

Max.H

60k miles

Mackhack

Ok then... Never replaced it on the E320 so far with 110k. Might be worth it to wait a little longer to see if that car will develop the smell too.

bbirdwell

Significant difference between the E320 and the E55. Count your blessings. E55 maintenance costs are significantly higher. When designed, ease of maintenance and reduced parts costs were low on the priority list.


Incorporating the fuel filter and pressure regulator may be an engineer's dream but...$489 for the part is a PITA for an owner. I, personally, would like to know the reason an external fuel filter and internal regulator could not have been used.

Mackhack

Half of all the E55 maintenance cost are related to AMG lettering on the back. Most parts are identical throughout the W211's. Once as a test I called the dealership asking for a part for my E55. I got a quote. 15 minutes later my better half called in to get a quote for the same part but she said its for her E320. It was 1/2 the price. Rip off of "rich" people. I'm glad I don't gave to order my parts through dealerships though.

Max.H

Sorry if this question has been answered. But, if you buy the pumps of ebay will that plug and play or do I need to buy the adapter harness? Does everything else bolt up?

The basket with both fuel pumps drops into the tank as 1 piece?

sexyxe

It has two pins in the centre that you remove and instal to get them in and out of the tank.

Assuming part numbers are correct it will just plug right in.

You might be getting leaking from the fuel filler neck. Check the MB USA settles fuel smell sticky for what is and isn't covered.

bbirdwell

MaxH, register with EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog), enter your VIN, and look up the latest part numbers for pumps and most likely adaptor cables for the new sensors. Through ECS Tuning you are looking at around $950.

If you want, PM me your VIN and I'll look it up on EPC. The on-line catalog is the greatest thing since sliced bread!

Max.H

OK thanks, Is the fuel filler neck expensive to replace? Probably just a rubber hose that connects to metal filler no? I looked at the sticky and didn't see any mention of the filler neck.

BBirdwell That sounds great! Are they factory original parts they sell on ecs tuning? Let me get my lazy self to the garage and get the vin # I'll Pm you soon as I can.

Parkl

Hallo to all, gents.

I've read it all about pumps and filters, just a thought;
should pump from CLS 55 amg fit into E55 or not?

Found it here: http://www.autoteiledirekt.de/pierburg-7015463.html

equitiesguy

Disregard.

StarvingArtist

I just put E55 pumps in a CLS. That is only one side.

BigVic

Ok Fellas, I have a big question for all that went through these new pumps.

Have any of you tested your fuel pressure under load after you replaced with the new fuel pump versions that have the male fuel outlet on the pumps? What i have found is that all the ones that had low fuel pressure all have the new pumps with the male fuel outlet on the pumps themselves. The ones that had the older version had the female fuel outlets on the pumps.

My car was a beast prior to the fuel tank recall done. I had replaced the pumps already 5yrs ago. Then in May of 2015, I got the tank recall done. Drove car home normally, felt fine. But right after 2 days later, when I did a WOT run from 2nd to 3rd my car felt very slow, and just thought it was heat soak issue because it was over 80F out. Then it just didnt get better, and it was just a placebo effect i was dealing with for months.

Then this year I got a dyno session to custom tune it, my AFR's went from 11s down low to almost 14's! for my AFR up top to 6k rpm! Dangerously lean, but still through down 530whp and 640wtq. So that is when I decided to check the pumps pressure. drops to 40psi under WOT.

So I bought new pumps from the dealer, dropped them in fine, and still same issue.

I then took the driver side fuel level side, and fuel pumps from passenger side out from my buddy's car that has the older pumps, and BAM!! my fuel pressure was rock solid!

A lot of the cars I tested didnt even realize they had an issue because they were still smoking vettes, m4's with dps and tunes and ****.

I few guys here have been battling a massive low fuel pressure issue under WOT load. 2nd gear, or 3rd doesn't matter.

Here is what I know. When the car goes in for the tank recall, they actually have the entire tank with the passenger side fuel pumps in it assembled, and the driver side Fuel leveling sender also installed. The tech drops the old tank, and pops in the new and connects it all up.

So with that being said, I decided to test fuel pressure in the following cars locally.

Got fuel tank recall done (full tank swap)
1x E55's = 76psi idle, drops to 40psi from 3k to 4.5krpm (84mm upper, 172mm lower, Mid headers, 2014 M5 3.14" exhaust, 82mm TB, 550cc injectors, looped rail, HE, HE pump, 5 gal trunk tank)

1x E55's = 76psi idle, drops to 40psi from 3k to 4.5krpm (84mm pulley, ECU tune)

1x CLS55's = 76psi idle, drops to 40psi from 3k to 4.5krpm (stock)
1x CLS55's = 76psi idle, drops to 40psi from 3k to 4.5krpm (84mm upper, ECU, TCU tune, Mid headers, HE pump and HE)



No fuel tank recall done at all yet, still original pumps or the older version.
1x E55's = 76-80psi idle, holds 75 psi solid under WOT (84mm pulley, ECU tune)

1x CLS55 = 76-80psi idle, holds 75 psi solid under WOT (72mm upper, 82mm TB, mid headers, 3in exhaust, 5 gal trunk tank, HE and HE pump, ECU, TCU tune)

1x CL55 = 76-80psi idle, holds 75 psi solid under WOT (84mm pulley, ECU tune)

From what I am seeing in the post, all of fuel pressure test show you are all ok at idle. but are you ok under boost and WOT? Because we aren't, lol. Fine at idle, but very low under WOT.

Can any of you provide a fuel test results under WOT? We just attached a manual guage to the rail and taped to the windsheild. So no electrical testers used to rule out calibration etc.

Mackhack

Does your car feel like it chokes/stutters in a 1/4-1/2 second interval when you floor it? I have this phenomenon since I got my tank and both pumps replaced through the recall. Interestingly one only feels this as a driver. The passengers I asked always said they don't feel anything.

I have to check if there is a way to check with Star Diagnosis.

Is there a solution through MB?

BigVic

I tested with a manual Fuel pressure gauge connected to the stock fuel rail's fuel pressure testing port on the passenger side of the rail. I then taped the gauge to the windshield so I can record it.

My car is so modded, I can't even tell those little studders, but It sure doesnt feel right up top. All the cars I tested that i wrote in my post above dont feel like they are studdering at all. None of them knew they had a fuel pressure issue even when mashing the gas and racing at the drag strip. No CEL, no shutdown, nothing, but when I stuck a fuel pressure gauge to them to test my findings and theory, they all issues if they got the tank recall done. I then stuck a wideband O2 on their cars and they are all leaning out up the top also. I have noticed a lot of E55s struggling to get into the 11s, when it was so easy to do prior to the tank recall.

Mackhack

I'll check on mine too. I didn't have this stutter before the recall repair. Can we exclude a pinched hose?