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That's not how it was explained to me by Fletcher Jones. Both the service manager and the lead technician stated they have the entire assembly shipped to them pre-assembled and ready for installation. Perhaps they use a third party for preassembly, or they are lying. All I know is that I don't have any lean issues, if anything, it is running too rich.
According to MBusa and several dealerships the tank and components are not pre-assembled. They come apart and will be assembled during the repair.
The correct answer is they do replace the entire if you have a leaking issue such as gas smell and such. I know 3 dealers here in IL and 4 of the leader techs have been my friends for over 16yrs. They showed me the entire assembly right from Germany. The tanks have the pumps inside because it saves on time and labor. The pumps do not need to be removed or assembled.
However, what they do is get new adapter wiring harness that connects the new fuel sender (driver side) to the factory harness that is on the chassis because it is a different design. The passenger side fuel pumps get a new adapter harness to replace the existing because some cars burn up the connector. But if you are ordering,using or getting new pumps, chances are they the new ones that I have tested that are not performing well so far on about 8 cars so far. Too many to be coincedence. Also,I bought new ones for my car and still same issue. I am sure some are working ok, but You wont know until you do a fuel pressure test. I wasnt running lean on the lower rpms at WOT until 4500 to 6700 rpm. that was very scary. Like I said, many did not know they had issues. I have measured the new pumps and will attempt to run AEM 320lph pumps. They will fit in the stock location with some minor modification. But if you have the older pumps, it is different. The older style pumps have a return line that splits into a y and dumps back into both fuel pump buckets to the botton siphoning part of the modules. The new ones do not have those y return lines. It only literally has one big return line and a very tiny one that only dumps into one fuel pumps bucket not to the other side like the older ones did. This help distribute the fuel better when the pumps were at max flow to support WOT conditions. It is a new design that is suppose to help prevent the fuel sender side from building pressure and leaking like the old design.
But I think what is happening is that the pumps are sucking up so much fuel from the buckets under WOT in the new design that the return lines are not dumping fuel back fast enough like how the old pumps did. You would think that the buckets would have ton of fuel in them because it is submerged in fuel. But the old design is much more balanced as far as that part.
In the end I really don't care too much whether they come assembled or not. I got the whole tank and both pumps etc. replaced and will see if I have this pressure loss as well. I'll report what pressure I have once i test it.
In the end I really don't care too much whether they come assembled or not. I got the whole tank and both pumps etc. replaced and will see if I have this pressure loss as well. I'll report what pressure I have once i test it.
Yeah not important about how it is done. Everyone I know has had the whole tank done like you, including myself. I just hope these cars I tested have a faulty batch or something. Because I know it has nothing to do with age. 2 cars I tested had them 2 weeks prior to me testing them.
I had my pumps replaced by the dealer about a year ago. I tried starting this morning after it sitting for a couple days and it sputtered and died. Tried again and started right up. I read something about drilling a hole somewhere to help with the senders.
I had my pumps replaced by the dealer about a year ago. I tried starting this morning after it sitting for a couple days and it sputtered and died. Tried again and started right up. I read something about drilling a hole somewhere to help with the senders.
hey man. I recommended drilling holes for fuel pressure issues under wot for lean afrs. You shouldnt have issues on startup. How fuel did you have in the tank and how long did the car sit?
hey man. I recommended drilling holes for fuel pressure issues under wot for lean afrs. You shouldnt have issues on startup. How fuel did you have in the tank and how long did the car sit?
I have probably 3 ticks under half and it was sitting for about two days. I've noticed the hesitation on startup after I got the pumps replaced. Before that it started up fine. Im 1 day out of the parts warranty for the replacements.
Strange how 2114701794 has been superseded by 2114700000, but it won't connect to this current fuel sender / filter 2114705094. Presumably 2114700000 fixes some problem the 2114701794 pump has, considering it replaced it. Anyone know what it was? Any known cases of 2114700000 cracking, leaking or burning?
Strange how 2114701794 has been superseded by 2114700000, but it won't connect to this current fuel sender / filter 2114705094. Presumably 2114700000 fixes some problem the 2114701794 pump has, considering it replaced it. Anyone know what it was? Any known cases of 2114700000 cracking, leaking or burning?
These are the latest numbers:
211-470-00-00 Fuel Delivery Module (dual pumps) $411
211-470-64-94 Tank Inner Module (actually filter/regulator) $489
211-471-05-79 Fuel Sender Seal x 2 $34
211-440-05-07 Cable Harness adapter for filter/regulator $15
211-540-07-00 adapter cable to fuel pumps $15
The latest fuel sending unit (dual pumps) will NOT connect to the two earlier fuel filter/regulator versions due to different fuel line connectors.
Your number has a typo in it (50-94 should be 51-94) and is the 2nd version; the part number above is the 3rd version. (EDIT: EPC shows the car is European market and the data card shows the car to be an Australian version; the part number is a 50-94. I stand corrected.)
If you use the earlier pumps, you must use the earlier fuel filter/regulator. If you use the above dual pumps (00-00), you MUST install the adapter cable (07-00) to the fuel pumps; if you fail to do so, one pump runs backward and your fuel pressure will be insufficient at full throttle. Both pumps should run at a~12-13 amps each; if one is at 12 amps and the other at 3 amps, it means someone forgot to install the adapter cable or a previous owner switched pins because he/she was not aware of the required adapter cable.
To add to the confusion, the first versions of the fuel pumps and the filter/regulator were both named "Delivery Units". The titles above are the latest in the EPC.
211-470-00-00 Fuel Delivery Module (dual pumps) $411
211-470-64-94 Tank Inner Module (actually filter/regulator) $489
211-471-05-79 Fuel Sender Seal x 2 $34
211-440-05-07 Cable Harness adapter for filter/regulator $15
211-540-07-00 adapter cable to fuel pumps $15
The latest fuel sending unit (dual pumps) will NOT connect to the two earlier fuel filter/regulator versions due to different fuel line connectors.
Your number has a typo in it (50-94 should be 51-94) and is the 2nd version; the part number above is the 3rd version.
If you use the earlier pumps, you must use the earlier fuel filter/regulator. If you use the above dual pumps (00-00), you MUST install the adapter cable (07-00) to the fuel pumps; if you fail to do so, one pump runs backward and your fuel pressure will be insufficient at full throttle. Both pumps should run at a~12-13 amps each; if one is at 12 amps and the other at 3 amps, it means someone forgot to install the adapter cable or a previous owner switched pins because he/she was not aware of the required adapter cable.
To add to the confusion, the first versions of the fuel pumps and the filter/regulator were both named "Delivery Units". The titles above are the latest in the EPC.
Thanks for the information, I should have mentioned my E55 isn't PZEV. I'm in the same situation as OP with the old fuel pump 2114701794 being replaced by the new 2114700000, but not being able to connect to the latest non PZEV fuel sender 2114705094. Wondering if there was some issue with 2114701794 that was fixed in the 2114700000 pump?
I'm guessing the cable harnesses 2114400507 and 2115400700 aren't required with the latest non pzev sender 2114705094 and the older style pump 2114701794? I'll have to figure out how to check the amps.
Thanks for the information, I should have mentioned my E55 isn't PZEV. I'm in the same situation as OP with the old fuel pump 2114701794 being replaced by the new 2114700000, but not being able to connect to the latest non PZEV fuel sender 2114705094. Wondering if there was some issue with 2114701794 that was fixed in the 2114700000 pump?
I'm guessing the cable harnesses 2114400507 and 2115400700 aren't required with the latest non pzev sender 2114705094 and the older style pump 2114701794? I'll have to figure out how to check the amps.
PM me your VIN and I'll look the part numbers up for you.
Can you guys please help me understand which parts I need. The best I can tell I have a non-partial zero emissions vehicle (outside USA). Below are the two sides, I only have one electrical connector to each side so I need to make sure the new parts do not have an external fuel level sender, all good. Seals, adapter harness and lock rings simple enough.
supreame- Is the wiring adapter just for the fuel pump (right side) or is there one for the sender assembly (left side) as well? I specifically mean for the one electrical plug version like you have, not the one with the black external sender unit.
Pumps for using with the single electrical left side sender assembly should be 211-470-17-94, got it. Seems the part number for the fuel sender assembly (left side) is 2114705094 and available and I assume the hoses will be compatible (ie not the ones with the black 90 degree fittings)?
I am considering bending over for the dealer on this one but I would prefer DIY if I can. Being around the other side of the world I would like the best chance of getting the parts right the first time. Thanks for any advice, this is more confusing than it should be.
Fwiw I only had one of the adapter harnesses when I put new pumps in, so I moved the wires around in the plug of the pumps to get hot and ground where they needed to be. Seemed cleaner that way and saved me waiting days for another part. The advantage of the adapter is that it's idiot proof, and it won't confuse the next guy if I ever sell it.
My dilemma is that I only have 27,000 miles on the car so I would expect the pumps, fuel filter etc to be fine for a lot longer. I guess my only other option is to JB weld the top to fix the small leak/smell and buy a fuel pressure gauge and just monitor the pressure and see if I can get a lot closer to the 60,000 mile recommended replacement interval. What would you guys do? https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=130 should do the trick.
I hate to burst your bubble. I did the exact same thing. I glued the entire top portion shut back then and it didn’t help. The only fix for the fuel smell is what MBUSA does for us here in the US free of charge for customers: a complete replacement of the gas tank, fuel pump assemblies, and about 30 other small parts.
No bubble burst. I have read it helping many people and not others. I have also read many posts where the smell is returning not long after full tank replacement. My leak appears to just be on the top through tiny cracks rather than the warping of the tank where the pump seals. I see no reason not to give it a go before ordering $1k+ of replacement parts.
I also have the adapter for my fuel pressure gauge on the way so I can guess the pump/filter health a bit better.
11-18-2016, 04:13 PM
