I ran distiller water with water wetter. IAT's stayed around 120*-150*F depending on the section. I was impressed. I'm on stock pulleys by the way and split cooling.

 

nice videos, keep them coming! there are a few sections where it sounds as if you were coasting a bit where you can still go WOT?

 

I was coasting on some of the straights. I didn't see a point in building up so much speed. I shut it down around 120MPH most of the time to conserve brakes and keep the SC temps at bay. Road cars going race car speeds without real safety equipment is a one way trip if anything goes wrong. IMHO...

 

2016 Track Season is HERE!!! Atlanta Motorsports Park this Sunday, Road Atlanta in June and a few others on my list.

I am up about 60WHP over last year so the brakes had to get a make over. I am now running SS lines, CarboTech Carbon Pads, head shielding around the SBC unit and going to pack some dry ice around the unit itself. I'll update once I get this thing on the track and get moving.

 

Hey 2000UZJ, just read the entire thread, this is fantastic stuff! I finally gathered the courage to take the E out to a track so ill be going this Sunday weather permitting.

I should be ok on cooling as i have fresh water 55/45 coolant mix, new 010 pump and a PLM H/E. I already know to expect the brake fade, so being this is day 1 with the 55K, ill be very aware of that.

My question to everyone, and especially you, is about trans and engine temps and fluids. How have you been dealing with that? Have you been changing trans and engine oils after each run? After a few or just more frequently? Ill be due for brake fluid regardless but my other fluids are all fresh. (Less than 1000 miles fresh)

Thanks again for the great thread!!!

 

I have about 40+ events on my car right now and I have yet to experience any issues with engine temperature or transmission temperature. The car seems to handle it just fine. It actually runs a bit cooler on the track due to the quantity of air passing through the engine vs beating it on the street at 40-50MPH and having to stop in traffic.

The stock breaks will give you very little feedback on when they are going to fade, you need to be very careful about this. Once the OE pads and Rotors pass 600*F (which is extremely easy to do) you will start to feel a grittiness in the brake pedal. That is your sign to take a few laps to cool them down. Do not ignore any signs of fade and keep going. I have never gotten the SBC overheating message on my car but I have serious brake fade. Depending on the track you can adjust your braking technique accordingly.

Another note on the brake system, if there is a large parking lot or the ability to stay out after the one lap cool down continue to drive the car for 5-10 minutes and use the transmission to slow the car. This will allow the rotors/pad/fluid to cool down back to ambient. Shutting the car off or stopping the car with brakes at track temperature will throw SBC into a "state of failure". I had this one where I went into the pits and turned the car off and a few minutes later wanted to go back out again and it was giving me the "Brake Failure" in red until I drove around the parking lot and got everything cooled.

I am on stock pulleys so heat soak is not a huge issue. If you are running stock pulleys shut it down around the top end of 3rd gear and cruise to allow the H/E to keep the IAT's down. It's all about management. Keep it cool on the straights and go hard coming out of the corners.

Every track session I do the brake fluid gets changed as well as engine oil. You will be running the brakes and engine harder than it's ever been ran in it's life. You will have smoking brakes after the first session due to the residue from tire shine and road grime making it into the cooling fins. The brake fluid will most likely turn black since you will be heating the calipers/lines up to the point where debris stuck in them will free up and get caught by the filter in the reservoir.

PM me with any other questions. Happy to help!

-Nick