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Electronic bypass valve for KILLER CHILLER??

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Old 06-12-2015, 12:23 AM
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Electronic bypass valve for KILLER CHILLER??

Need to bypass my HE so I can use the KC for the summer and also then be able to use the HE for the winter so I can switch between the two..

The stuff I found is all manually switching and the bypass valve is just so HUGE that Joe from Kincaid recommended..

Anyway I searched and searched and finally came across this video (I believe he is a member on this forum??)
Either way in his video I see he is using these electronic 5/8 bypass valves wired to a switch to switch between the two!! pretty cool I thought..
So I go to search for this valve but I can't find it anywhere

My question, does anyone know where to find this 5/8 electronic bypass valve?
Or knows who I need to talk to on getting some made?

Thanks, here is the link to the video he starts talking about the electronic bypass valve at 1:40 into the video..

Last edited by 03svtkiller; 06-12-2015 at 12:25 AM.
Old 06-12-2015, 10:27 AM
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You will find many choices for that and similar valves if you do a google image search for "solenoid water valve" https://www.google.com/search?q=sole...iw=867&bih=608. The unit in the video is probably under $10.

When choosing, pay attention to "operating temperature" as many of these are not intended for hot water. ALSO, make sure you pick one with an appropriate "duty cycle" rating.

if you want to get a little more sophisticated, try a combination heater valve like this .... in some cases, they can be found for under $30 (copies) and are up the task in terms of temp and duty cycle. http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...d=200954381039


worth mentioning, I would suggest you give more thought to the routing of the hoses (than the guy in the video who seems to have under-estimated the negative impact of tight 90° bends).

Cheers,
Chris
Old 06-12-2015, 11:19 AM
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I like the idea of a heater control valve. Especially if someone could rig it with two temp probes and some logic, to automatically open and close as it compares coolant to ambient temps.
Old 06-12-2015, 12:09 PM
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Looked before and have up. I keep my HE bypassed but also doesn't really get cold much here in AL. But would still like the ability to for the limited amount of time is it cold enough to make the HE matter in the winter. Now it's just a hassle to hook up for at best 6 weeks or so of good use
Old 06-12-2015, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by latemodel21
You will find many choices for that and similar valves if you do a google image search for "solenoid water valve" https://www.google.com/search?q=sole...iw=867&bih=608. The unit in the video is probably under $10.

When choosing, pay attention to "operating temperature" as many of these are not intended for hot water. ALSO, make sure you pick one with an appropriate "duty cycle" rating.

if you want to get a little more sophisticated, try a combination heater valve like this .... in some cases, they can be found for under $30 (copies) and are up the task in terms of temp and duty cycle. http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...d=200954381039


worth mentioning, I would suggest you give more thought to the routing of the hoses (than the guy in the video who seems to have under-estimated the negative impact of tight 90° bends).

Cheers,
Chris
thank you very much sir!!!!

Going with these http://m.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Solen...-/300625215478
Old 06-15-2015, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 03svtkiller
thank you very much sir!!!!

Going with these http://m.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Solen...-/300625215478
That "looks" like a good choice ... flow through it may be a bit less than you'd expect.

I would think you could get by with only one valve (and 2 T's).

On the topic of hoses .... Gates makes some nice lengths with molded 90° turns which are far less restrictive than using barbed fitting for your turns. Another thing to check out is the "wall of hoses" at your NAPA, etc, there are a lot of interesting molded hoses out there and you may find some that suit your application.

Cheers,
Chris
Old 06-17-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by latemodel21
That "looks" like a good choice ... flow through it may be a bit less than you'd expect.

I would think you could get by with only one valve (and 2 T's).

On the topic of hoses .... Gates makes some nice lengths with molded 90° turns which are far less restrictive than using barbed fitting for your turns. Another thing to check out is the "wall of hoses" at your NAPA, etc, there are a lot of interesting molded hoses out there and you may find some that suit your application.

Cheers,
Chris
I bought two of these that way I don't have to get any fittings and I can just switch em on and off between the two alot simpler and less restrictive.
Old 10-18-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 03svtkiller
I bought two of these that way I don't have to get any fittings and I can just switch em on and off between the two alot simpler and less restrictive.
Where do you put that valve in the killer chiller circuit? Thanks
Old 10-18-2015, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by macarena78
Where do you put that valve in the killer chiller circuit? Thanks
Mine were put in right after the HX, where the two
Hoses are on the right of the HX, It's cut in to and I believe a couple Ts were used. I had a shop install it.
Old 10-18-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 03svtkiller
Mine were put in right after the HX, where the two
Hoses are on the right of the HX, It's cut in to and I believe a couple Ts were used. I had a shop install it.
Can you please send me a picture of it?
Thanks a lot

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