Hey all, so I got in on a group buy a little over a month ago and with work and life continuing to butt in, I've finally gotten around to installing it.

For reference, I verified IAT's the other day on my ride home.

At around 68* ambient indicated on my dash, per the Torque app and bluetooth OBD2, I'm showing highway cruising temps of around 82-84* at cruising, and 120's at the end of a pull... per the previous owner I've got the 010 Bosch pump installed. Took about 30ish seconds after a pull to come back down to cruising temps

The only performance mods are MBH LT headers and a mild EC tune for the headers and for the O2 CEL so that I could pass emissions.

Anyway...onto some pics!

Put the car in "lift" mode for extra clearance for floor jacks:



Wheels off and under the side of the car for extra piece of mind. Old school thing my father showed me that stuck...



Two bolts come off at each pair of headlights. Just follow the bumper cover and you'll see which ones they are since it might not be clear from the pics:





Two more bolts support the bumper cover on the bottom of the crash bar, and then a sort of locking bracket needs to be pushed IN (towards the front of the car) and then pulled away from where the bumper and fender lines meet. It'll make sense when you pull away the wheel well liner and dig in there.

Don't forget to disconnect the foglight on each side, and the ambient temp sensor probe (I think) next to the driver's side foglight. Also, when the bumper is ready to break free, pull it only a few inches away and disconnect the bulbs to the orange side markers. They just twist off and pull out...



Drain from the petcock. Or clamp the inercooler hoses and pull them off of the intercooler (probably messy). I was hungry so I drained from the petcock while I made a sandwhich and grabbed a beer...





My fluid was BLUE. Not sure if it's ever been changed before. At 62k miles, probably not so I'm assuming it's factory.

Random pic while it drained:



Total drained was about 1 and a half windshield wiper fluid bottles:



Blah blah and fast forward to getting ready to install your new HE. I had some weatherstripping that was just about the size of the HE lying around. I'm not sure why I put it on top, but it seemed like a good idea at the time



Using the provided hardware, mount everything back up!




As you can see, it got dark. I'm going to grab new coolant tomorrow (there's probably nothing wrong with my old one) and top the system back off!

Also, dyno day on Thursday! It's a "hearbreaker" mustang dyno per the shop owner, but I'm not really worried about absolute numbers as much as I am seeing how healthy the engine might be and establishing a baseline for future mods.

I'll follow up tomorrow!

 

Also, while taking things apart, I noticed the passenger's side headlight lower bracket was cracked! Somebody tried to bondo/jbweld it and it's going to come apart any time now. Anybody ever use one of these with success?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/W211-MERCEDES-HEADLIGHT-BRACKET-REPAIR-KIT-FRONT-LEFT-2002-2009-/181609015807?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2a48bda9ff
I'll need one for the opposite side, but the idea is the same. Would dealers have this in stock? I'd rather not take the bumper off again to fix this.... the only other time I plan on removing the bumper is to do an E63 upgrade.

 

You just might want to take a look at slides 9 and 10 in the .pdf attached to this post....


https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...formation.html


That weather stripping might cause you some issues when you attempt to reinstall the bumper.

 

Nice guide. I'm interested in how the undertray fits with the lower fluid cooler fitted correctly using the factory brackets, since the PLM is the only one to offer a mount for these.

 

Maybe! I hope not though, it's not very thick at all. 1/8" of an inch. It's not that thich half inch stuff. You can just make it out a bit laying between the HE and the crash bar in the pic above. I though it might help insulate against any vibration/rubbing that might occur. I'll find out soon enough what it does to my fitment!

Oh, and as an FYI, I also had to take a file and enlarge the inner driver's side mounting hole about 1/16th of an inch. Took less than a minute with a file.

 

Sooo.... what am I doing wrong with bleeding?

Here are my steps.

---Just drove home 25min from dyno run on mustang dyno, so car was hot.---

Car off:

1. Very carefully unscrew the coolant reservoir cap. Set cap aside.

2. Remove rubber nipple off intercooler return line.

3. Place clear hose to route fluid from nipple back into coolant reservoir tank.

4. Start car.

5. At this point, nothing is flowing through the clear hose. I clamp the rubber line after the nipple to create backpressure in the line to encourage it to flow through the bleed hose.

6. Nothing flowing. Coolant is at correct level. I'm perplexed.


...if I suck through the hose to try and "siphon" the coolant out, it'll flow out of the tube. As soon as I remove my mouth, it flows back into the nipple.

Thoughts? Did I burn my pump out on they dyno? About 20k miles on a Bosch 010 pump.

 

the pump must not be coming on. check the fuse also.

 

Nice write up, What happened with the pump?

 

Not sure yet. I don't know if it was on the way out and my dyno pulls yesterday finally put the nail in the coffin?

I wasn't liking the way it has been cooling at the dyno. Recovery times were very slow... With ambient temps in the low 70*s IAT's would never come down past 100* after 20-30min of sitting with the hood open and fans blasting it.

I've got to go to FCPEuro today to pick up some new Swaybar Endlinks on my mom's E46 BMW. Might as well bring a new 010 home with me just in case. I'd rather have it with me to swap out than have to make a second trip to FCP when I diagnose a dead pump anyway.

 

Well, they don't exactly use factory brackets. They have their own L-Shaped brackets in the same shape as the factory brackets that screw into the bottom of their intercooler. You just have to reuse the rubber gromments on the factory brackets.

But otherwise, I had NO fitment issues mounting the bumper or any of the undertray back up.

What you do lose is the black plastic endcaps that were on the stock cooler. I wonder if those are designed to help "funnel" the air into the intercooler a bit.

 

Here's the DIY I guess I'll use.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/5103...-diy-info.html

But my bleeding proccess was exactly the same, but nothing is flowing for me on a hot, running car with the return line clamped after the bleeder nipple.

 

Nice. I'll be switching my FTP out for a PLM when I switch to the E63 bumper then.

 

Let me know if you have any questions or snags along the way I can help with. The only "modification" I had to do was to slightly enlarge one of the holes that bolt the intercooler to the crash bar. Literally just a few passes with a file.


I'll report back later today, probably with a video, when I get my new intercooler pump going.

 

I have 3 or 4 010's on the shelf. I photographed one this morning for this kit.

--Kyle

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...g-0392022010kt

 

I'm pretty sure we spoke earlier this morning. I'll see you around 4!

 

I think once the car is turned off the pump will not come on again till driven above 2000 RPM making the supercharger clutch engage.

 

car needs to by idling and hot for the IC to come on...or someone has posted that you can floor it real quick and the kickdown switch will start it as well...not sure if that is true or not.

 

I guess that's true. Instead I jumped the relay in the back so that it's runs on ignition!

 

It is absolutely true. I figured that out one day while sitting in the staging lanes. The car had been off with the hood open for a while, but when I started it back up the IAT started climbing all the way to 128 deg! All it took was one quick rev of the engine (not sure if you need to engage the kickdown button or not) and the IATs started falling all the way down to 110. (This was on a totally stock car on a warm day)

 

Do you have a picture or more detailed info on how/where to do this? Sounds like something I'd like to do.

 

Engine off, ignition on! I didn't want to fuss with wiring or splicing anything from the harness onto the pump.

 

[QUOTE=mkiv_tdi;6472973]Engine off, ignition on! I didn't want to fuss with wiring or splicing anything from the harness onto the pump.



Awesome, thanks! I can make a race-day jumper and leave it stock during the week.

 

Exactly what I was thinking when I made it!

I wish I thought of this the day before my dyno runs though to let the pump run while the fans were blasting at it. :/// lol

 

Bleeding the system goes much faster if you clamp off the rubber line below the nipple where you attach the tubing. It's in the WIS.

 

I found out the hard way this weekend that leaving the jumper in will cause your car to go into limp mode. Be sure to replace the relay before doing a pull.