When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a significant pull to the right when I am not holding on to the wheel. Car is aligned with all new oem suspension parts and balanced wheels with good PSS tyres. It pulls even on a flat surface with no crown. Steering wheel is straight and it will go straight if I hold on to it.
I have read all threads I could find on the topic and I can't seem to find a logical answer to this.
I have the alignment sheet here. Some words are in swedish but I think you can figure out what is what here. What about the caster values? Could those cause the car to behave like this?
I would start with decreasing your left camber. Camber has more of a effect on pull than caster and your car has more camber on the left front. I would reduce that first. Should drop to 1.20 or so. In doing so it will also very slightly reduce your left caster as well. I would assume it should go straight then.
Before you do any of this though, swap your front wheels. It may just be a tire pull.
Swapped wheels and no difference. I'll have to go back to the shop and make them adjust what you said. Also checking the bushings in the rear and rear calipers if theyre sticking. This is so annoying.
when i first purchased mine the steering wheel was off center to the left...i had a pull to the left also. I finally saw my rear left wheel looked funny..so i took it in and they replaced a bent connecting arm, aligned it, then it was off center to the right...and a pull. after a while i took it in for some routine maintenance to a guy i trust and is MB certified. He said I had a bad upper ball joint...so he replaced it and did another alignment and my steering wheel is back to center and no pull at all..
I would start with decreasing your left camber. Camber has more of a effect on pull than caster and your car has more camber on the left front. I would reduce that first. Should drop to 1.20 or so. In doing so it will also very slightly reduce your left caster as well. I would assume it should go straight then.
Before you do any of this though, swap your front wheels. It may just be a tire pull.
i was also going to suggest swapping front tires around. yes, throw a left front camber bolt kit in and make it more positive and you should be set after performing the alignment again of course.
I see what you mean there but which tab should I slide the bolt on to for the desired effect? Inner or outer?
The bolt needs to go through the outer tab(closest to to the wheel) on that front driver rear lower control arm bushing. This will pull that lower control arm towards the center of the car which adds positive camber.
I have a significant pull to the right when I am not holding on to the wheel. Car is aligned with all new oem suspension parts and balanced wheels with good PSS tyres. It pulls even on a flat surface with no crown. Steering wheel is straight and it will go straight if I hold on to it.
I have read all threads I could find on the topic and I can't seem to find a logical answer to this.
I have the alignment sheet here. Some words are in swedish but I think you can figure out what is what here. What about the caster values? Could those cause the car to behave like this?
THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT OEM!
You can fit (for the front only) “one only position” off set fluted bolts. But these only allow .3 of one degree (3mm/1/8”) – insufficient range and not being “precisely adjustable”.
We saw the need therefore to design, invent precisely adjustable – Front Camber and Caster and Rear Camber (with extra Toe) replacement bushing kits.
The K-MAC front kit provides up to 4 times the adjustment range and unlike the one position bolts there is no labor intensive disassembly required. Instead precise “single wrench” adjustment accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack.
It means steering pull, premature edge tire wear or changing settings after altering vehicle height, fitting wide profile tires, curb knock damage is FIXED RIGHT THE 1ST TIME.
No more ongoing visits to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands.
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/traction/understeer/oversteer
CASTER – Resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
Front bushings also replace the 4 highest wearing bushes and have twice the load bearing area. They eliminate the OEM air voided, oil filled bushes yet retain 2 axis movement. Result is improved brake and steering response.
For the Rear similar adjustment of Camber to resolve premature edge tire wear, improve traction with extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new rear Camber facility.
Also manufactured for the W211 rear suspension is an entire rear link arm kit of 14 bushings. Allowing noticeably improved rear end stability, handling response and reduced wheel hop under acceleration. Overcoming the alternative of unforgiving harshness of short life delrin bushes that soon pound out.
W211Front Camber and Caster kit # 502216K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502526K $480
Rear14 link bushing kit $480
Current promotion for MB World members USA/Canada delivery - $30 one kit or $40 front and rear (normally $70 one kit, $80 front and rear). Can pay by Visa, MasterCard or PayPal.
07-18-2015, 06:45 PM
